yamaslob
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I just put 3200miles on my 06 Nytro, on the last ride I noticed an awfully weird noice from the clutch side sounded like the belt was on the way out. In the morning i looked it over and noticed both sides of the bearings are gone and the lock nut came loose and was free wheeling on the jack shaft. My question is has anyone had the same problems of the jack shaft bearings going on there Vectors, Rages, Nytro?
Thanks
-James
Thanks
-James
Oak Hill
VIP Member
Almost 5000 miles and still going strong. Have you ever cleaned the bearing and repacked it?
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Oak Hill said:Almost 5000 miles and still going strong. Have you ever cleaned the bearing and repacked it?
How does one go about doing this?
Oak Hill
VIP Member
To clean and repack Jacshaft Bearing as follows:
1. Remove left Side Panel
2. Remove Drive belt
3. Remove 14mm Bolt that holds Secondary Clutch on
4. Remove Secondary and becarful to watch for shims. There is usually 2 thin shims on the outside and 1 thin and 1 thick on the rear of the Secondary. Also pay close attention to which way the thick rear shim was installed it
has a recess and if I remember correctly it goes toward the bearing.
5. Find a very sharp pick (preferably a 90 degree tip) and very carefully
pry the outer seal out of the bearing. Pry it from the most outer edge. Take your time and it will come out with out damage.
6. Spray Bearing out with Brake Cleaner. No need to remove seal from back side of Bearing. Be careful not to get Brake Cleaner on painted surfaces.
7. Pack Bearing with a Synthetic Grease or Low Temp Grease. Reinstall Seal
8. Reverse order for installation and you are done.
Do this once a year and never have a Jackshaft Bearing issue again!
If I left something out, please chime in.
1. Remove left Side Panel
2. Remove Drive belt
3. Remove 14mm Bolt that holds Secondary Clutch on
4. Remove Secondary and becarful to watch for shims. There is usually 2 thin shims on the outside and 1 thin and 1 thick on the rear of the Secondary. Also pay close attention to which way the thick rear shim was installed it
has a recess and if I remember correctly it goes toward the bearing.
5. Find a very sharp pick (preferably a 90 degree tip) and very carefully
pry the outer seal out of the bearing. Pry it from the most outer edge. Take your time and it will come out with out damage.
6. Spray Bearing out with Brake Cleaner. No need to remove seal from back side of Bearing. Be careful not to get Brake Cleaner on painted surfaces.
7. Pack Bearing with a Synthetic Grease or Low Temp Grease. Reinstall Seal
8. Reverse order for installation and you are done.
Do this once a year and never have a Jackshaft Bearing issue again!
If I left something out, please chime in.
bjowett
Lifetime Member
That bearing see's a little more heat due to the rear exhaust, so a failure can be found here or there. Do the repack, it's fairly easy (depending on your experience).
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
what about the other sideOak Hill said:To clean and repack Jacshaft Bearing as follows:
1. Remove left Side Panel
2. Remove Drive belt
3. Remove 14mm Bolt that holds Secondary Clutch on
4. Remove Secondary and becarful to watch for shims. There is usually 2 thin shims on the outside and 1 thin and 1 thick on the rear of the Secondary. Also pay close attention to which way the thick rear shim was installed it
has a recess and if I remember correctly it goes toward the bearing.
5. Find a very sharp pick (preferably a 90 degree tip) and very carefully
pry the outer seal out of the bearing. Pry it from the most outer edge. Take your time and it will come out with out damage.
6. Spray Bearing out with Brake Cleaner. No need to remove seal from back side of Bearing. Be careful not to get Brake Cleaner on painted surfaces.
7. Pack Bearing with a Synthetic Grease or Low Temp Grease. Reinstall Seal
8. Reverse order for installation and you are done.
Do this once a year and never have a Jackshaft Bearing issue again!
If I left something out, please chime in.
The bearing one the other side is constantly lubed since there is no seal at chaincase side. Still, i recommend to check its smoothness every time the cover is taken out (for other purpose) or purposely every 6000 miles. Last fall, i removed chain + secondary pulley, then rotating the shaft i could felt some was wrong..... had to replace it. All in all, seen a little controversy in here some time ago about having open bearing in the chaincase + no magnet to collect metal debris.... maybe there is something here ?
Oh... the lower one, on drive shaft, was A1; did not touch... still is open to the chaincase side.
Oh... the lower one, on drive shaft, was A1; did not touch... still is open to the chaincase side.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
Oak Hill said:To clean and repack Jacshaft Bearing as follows:
1. Remove left Side Panel
2. Remove Drive belt
3. Remove 14mm Bolt that holds Secondary Clutch on
4. Remove Secondary and becarful to watch for shims. There is usually 2 thin shims on the outside and 1 thin and 1 thick on the rear of the Secondary. Also pay close attention to which way the thick rear shim was installed it
has a recess and if I remember correctly it goes toward the bearing.
5. Find a very sharp pick (preferably a 90 degree tip) and very carefully
pry the outer seal out of the bearing. Pry it from the most outer edge. Take your time and it will come out with out damage.
6. Spray Bearing out with Brake Cleaner. No need to remove seal from back side of Bearing. Be careful not to get Brake Cleaner on painted surfaces.
7. Pack Bearing with a Synthetic Grease or Low Temp Grease. Reinstall Seal
8. Reverse order for installation and you are done.
Do this once a year and never have a Jackshaft Bearing issue again!
If I left something out, please chime in.
next time you do, can you take some pic's on how to peel back the bearing seal? won't it wreck the seal once you try and remove
Oak Hill
VIP Member
If you take your time and are carefull, seal can be removed over and over. Practice on an old bearing if you have one and you will soon learn how easy it is to due.
gnip134
Expert
Hand Packing a bearing seems to be much better than trying to pack a bearing while still in the sled. Is that jackshaft bearing tough to get out?
WarriorBeads
Expert
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While you're doing the left side JS bearing, pull the secondary and do the left side drive axle bearing too - once per year min.
I've found the 99 cent, Dollar/Drug store eye-glass repair kit screw driver works very well to remove the bearing seal.....It's a super-tiny flat head screw driver.
I've found the 99 cent, Dollar/Drug store eye-glass repair kit screw driver works very well to remove the bearing seal.....It's a super-tiny flat head screw driver.
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
is that 14MM bolt on the 2ndary a RH or LH thread? My ejeecated guess is that it's a RH.
BTW and FWIW - I greased the lower drive shaft bearing with one of those sharp needle grease injectors. Also did my suspension wheels too. Must have bought a cheap one cuz I only got about 5 bearings out of it b4 the needle snapped.
Are these things OK to use?
EDIT - the belt is a beeyotch to get off of these things!!! any tips on belt removal?
BTW and FWIW - I greased the lower drive shaft bearing with one of those sharp needle grease injectors. Also did my suspension wheels too. Must have bought a cheap one cuz I only got about 5 bearings out of it b4 the needle snapped.
Are these things OK to use?
EDIT - the belt is a beeyotch to get off of these things!!! any tips on belt removal?
Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
I had my bearing out on my jackshaft at 2,500 miles and it was fine still had good grease in it...it still looked very fresh..this bearing doesn't get wet like the driveshaft bearing does since drive shaft bearing is down low and in the elements, that bearing at 2,000 miles the grease that was in it was like wasted ..I wouldn't even call it grease anymore. In all due respect to Oakhill..and others on here ..but I wouldn't worry about that bearing on the jackshaft till at least 3,500-5000 miles unless you wash your sled under the hood alot? Again this is just my HO to what I have found. But for sure I would do the drive shaft bearing every year takes 10-15 min at most.Oak Hill said:If you take your time and are carefull, seal can be removed over and over. Practice on an old bearing if you have one and you will soon learn how easy it is to due.
Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
Also what I found that works good to get the seals off of the bearing is a set of those miniture eye glass screwdrivers use the thin small flat one..they are very thin and get right in so you can pry the OD of the seal out by getting in and around and behind the rubber part and just pop it out! be careful not to bend the metal or disform it while removing or replacing it! It must stay perfectly flat.
Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
sounds like your biggest problem was ..how long were those locknuts loose..? That bearing probally would be ok at 3,200 miles its the driveshaft bearing I'd be more worried about before the jackshaft bearing!! :ORCyamaslob said:I just put 3200miles on my 06 Nytro, on the last ride I noticed an awfully weird noice from the clutch side sounded like the belt was on the way out. In the morning i looked it over and noticed both sides of the bearings are gone and the lock nut came loose and was free wheeling on the jack shaft. My question is has anyone had the same problems of the jack shaft bearings going on there Vectors, Rages, Nytro?
Thanks
-James
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