kinger
VIP Member
EGTs these were more work then I wanted but glad I will have the data. 1.5” from flange. Most information I found said 2-4” from valve. No I can dial in individual cylinder fueling. On to my exhaust version 2.0…
kinger
VIP Member
My cranks case pressure solution. Weld in an exhaust Venturi and hook it up to my crank case to see a little vacuum at high speeds.
kinger
VIP Member
Can’t decide what spot for meth tank. Forward backward, re-purpose some old trim? Thoughts. This is really only temporary permanent haha. I need to see how much meth I burn in a trip then I may end up with a custom tank someday in the tunnel.
Attachments
kinger
VIP Member
Headlights bar modified to hid the Meth distribution block, pressure sensor, and solenoid hidden. Zip ties are only temporary.
kinger
VIP Member
bleedyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 1,490
- Location
- Northern Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Yamaha Sidewinder Rtx Le 2012 Yamaha Vector Ltx
My opinion keep it closer to the seat. Less likely to get torn off at sub sonic speeds going through the berries. Also after the other riders catch up to you with their throttle stuck wide open and you getting corn holed you are less likely to get caught with meth on you
kinger
VIP Member
Thanks for the good laugh! You are right, the only damage I have had in the past was from people rear ending me!
Close to the seat it is.
kinger
VIP Member
Wiring fun, making progress, I got the Motec controlling my meth pump and solenoid!
So much had to come together:
I wanted pod headlights again
…that meant I needed a one pc hood
…that meant I needed to reroute my charge tube
…I wanted to add meth…
… that meant I needed to buy the E888 expander
…that meant I needed to find a place to mount it on rubber isolation
… the meth also meant I needed to hide the distribution block
…it fit in the headlight but then the bolt was to long interfering and I couldn’t cut it because the wire came through it
…that meant I needed new LED lights that had a different mount point
Anyway tonight it all came together. The last piece of the puzzle. Now I can get it all loomed up and check for water later leaks. THEN THAT MEANS..
stay tuned….
So much had to come together:
I wanted pod headlights again
…that meant I needed a one pc hood
…that meant I needed to reroute my charge tube
…I wanted to add meth…
… that meant I needed to buy the E888 expander
…that meant I needed to find a place to mount it on rubber isolation
… the meth also meant I needed to hide the distribution block
…it fit in the headlight but then the bolt was to long interfering and I couldn’t cut it because the wire came through it
…that meant I needed new LED lights that had a different mount point
Anyway tonight it all came together. The last piece of the puzzle. Now I can get it all loomed up and check for water later leaks. THEN THAT MEANS..
stay tuned….
sxr70001
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2010
- Messages
- 1,120
- Location
- Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder LTX SE
SR Viper RTX SE
Geez what a monster. It looks like something from Road Warrior if that was in a cold climate. Awesome work!
kinger
VIP Member
If you think it looks like a monster now, just wait until the unveil
kinger
VIP Member
kinger
VIP Member
Man the wiring is soooo time consuming. Its annoying I spend hours and see no progress. BUT I am making progress and testing every connection as it goes. So far I have:
Loomed the E888 from the foot well to the main wire harness
Tested and have the Amplink PDM taking my PWM output from the E888 to turn the meth pump ON and OFF
Wired up spare inputs and one extra EGT for some other temp (Maybe intake ambient air, etc )
Gutting the head light harness and preparing to power my new LED pod lights
Extend the OEM cluster to mount on the handlebar
Going to make a 6 pin Deutsch connector to allow removal of my headlight, meth solenoid, meth pressure sensor all in one click
Calibrated my knock control and almost figured out how to get it to display on my Digital dash in real time
Created new display with warnings for each sensor ( I should see ALL data in the Motec while I am riding now)
Trying to get all this loomed up is boring and time consuming but I keep chipping away!!
Loomed the E888 from the foot well to the main wire harness
Tested and have the Amplink PDM taking my PWM output from the E888 to turn the meth pump ON and OFF
Wired up spare inputs and one extra EGT for some other temp (Maybe intake ambient air, etc )
Gutting the head light harness and preparing to power my new LED pod lights
Extend the OEM cluster to mount on the handlebar
Going to make a 6 pin Deutsch connector to allow removal of my headlight, meth solenoid, meth pressure sensor all in one click
Calibrated my knock control and almost figured out how to get it to display on my Digital dash in real time
Created new display with warnings for each sensor ( I should see ALL data in the Motec while I am riding now)
Trying to get all this loomed up is boring and time consuming but I keep chipping away!!
kinger
VIP Member
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
Well then stop writing about it and get after it haha.
Your build is amazing to watch and your dedication is unthinkable!
Keep up the work!
Your build is amazing to watch and your dedication is unthinkable!
Keep up the work!
kinger
VIP Member
I made a lot a of progress and I am Spraying meth!! Woo hoo!
I only made one wiring error where I wired the pressure sensor backwards because I looked at the diagram from the perspective of the connector not the sender, so I had to flop two wires around in my Deutsch connector. Not to shabby!
Bad news is I don't really like how it works. The pressure sensor is after the solenoid, so I can tell that meth is getting to the engine. Problem is with the PWM solenoid the pressure jumps all around from like 12 psi to 150 psi. I am not sure what to do now. In my head I was thinking it would have 300 psi head pressure, then actually spray at like 200 psi or even 150 psi and I could set thresholds to save the motor at say 50 psi or something like that. Now the signal is not really usable for that. Which I guess makes sense when your pulsing pressure to the sensor. Just unexpected. Now I am torn how to add a failsafe I could probably add a flow sensor ahead of the solenoid but they aren't that reliable and could leak. Or I could just set the threshold to 0 and that would be the only fail safe, if it was dribbling or full of air because I ran the tank dry I could pop the motor.
On that note, holy crap its a lot of water! I mean I will go through 2 gallons on one lake namakgon pull! I was thinking it should last me all season. I ran a gallon through it testing like nothing. I am worried about this or I am over reacting and in practice it wont be so bad?? I sure hope so.
Lastly the resolution on the solenoid isn't great, it does nothing until 20% duty and its pretty much full on by 75%. At low resolutions to "save" meth it doesn't really slow down, its pretty much set to a LOT of water at 20% and a LOT MORE at 75%.
More to come, re-doing the handle bar gauges, going to fit my digital dash and OEM pod on the bars and need to extend the wires and make mounts. Never ends...
I only made one wiring error where I wired the pressure sensor backwards because I looked at the diagram from the perspective of the connector not the sender, so I had to flop two wires around in my Deutsch connector. Not to shabby!
Bad news is I don't really like how it works. The pressure sensor is after the solenoid, so I can tell that meth is getting to the engine. Problem is with the PWM solenoid the pressure jumps all around from like 12 psi to 150 psi. I am not sure what to do now. In my head I was thinking it would have 300 psi head pressure, then actually spray at like 200 psi or even 150 psi and I could set thresholds to save the motor at say 50 psi or something like that. Now the signal is not really usable for that. Which I guess makes sense when your pulsing pressure to the sensor. Just unexpected. Now I am torn how to add a failsafe I could probably add a flow sensor ahead of the solenoid but they aren't that reliable and could leak. Or I could just set the threshold to 0 and that would be the only fail safe, if it was dribbling or full of air because I ran the tank dry I could pop the motor.
On that note, holy crap its a lot of water! I mean I will go through 2 gallons on one lake namakgon pull! I was thinking it should last me all season. I ran a gallon through it testing like nothing. I am worried about this or I am over reacting and in practice it wont be so bad?? I sure hope so.
Lastly the resolution on the solenoid isn't great, it does nothing until 20% duty and its pretty much full on by 75%. At low resolutions to "save" meth it doesn't really slow down, its pretty much set to a LOT of water at 20% and a LOT MORE at 75%.
More to come, re-doing the handle bar gauges, going to fit my digital dash and OEM pod on the bars and need to extend the wires and make mounts. Never ends...
