LE shock tools

[ronzx9]

Anyone have or make a better set of tools to make spring adjustments to the qs3r shocks than what comes in the tool kit? They suck.

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[XP123]

Anyone have or make a better set of tools to make spring adjustments to the qs3r shocks than what comes in the tool kit? They suck.

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You are suppose to make those adjustments in your warm shop not out in the bush in minus 17 degree temps.

 

[Motorhead]

Anyone have or make a better set of tools to make spring adjustments to the qs3r shocks than what comes in the tool kit? They suck.

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I agree, the new, small, thin and shorter shock tool does not work. Replaced mine with a set I had in my tool box, They do not bend! Pretty sure they came from Yamaha’s of past.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I got some old tools I have since forever, and they work better then these new ones which seem to keep getting smaller and smaller and cheaper...grrr

 

[DennyTuna]

I had to use a BFH to separate mine the first time....crazy tight! I need look around my older sleds tool bags and snag those bigger wrenches too!

 

[SumpBuster]

I posted a pic (somewhere) of bigger spanner wrenches that worked great. Maybe from the vector or old rx1s...wider and fit nice.

 

[XP123]

I never messed with the ski shock springs on this sled before so I checked them out today. There was ice all over the threads but I still wanted to see how easy it would be to adjust them when frozen. First thing I did was use a large screw driver and hammer to loosen the lock nut. After that I was able to adjust the springs by hand and never had to use the POS wrenches that came with the sled. I was very surprised at how easy the springs and adjusters moved by hand. After I just used the hammer and screw driver to set the lock nut. I'm thinking if you tried to loosen the lock nut with the tools instead of using a hammer and screw driver then you probably would have no luck getting it loosened.

 

[XP123]

What I forgot to mention was I had the skis up off the ground and I'm sure that is a big part of why it was so easy. I would suggest if you are out on the trail and need to make an adjustment to get some help and tip the sled on its side and do one side at a time.

 

[ronzx9]

We had to use a crow bar and 3' hunk of 4x4 to break the lock not loose, and I had to swing hard! With the sled off the ground and the lock ring moved away from the one above the spring you could not turn them by hand. Once we got the springs decompressed about 2 inches we could then turn by hand. There was about 5" from the top of the threads to the lock ring when we started. There is about 2" now and they are still a hair tight.

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[XP123]

We had to use a crow bar and 3' hunk of 4x4 to break the lock not loose, and I had to swing hard! With the sled off the ground and the lock ring moved away from the one above the spring you could not turn them by hand. Once we got the springs decompressed about 2 inches we could then turn by hand. There was about 5" from the top of the threads to the lock ring when we started. There is about 2" now and they are still a hair tight.

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WOW that's crazy Ron. Are you sure your springs aren't too loose now? I have 4 1/2 of thread above my adjusters and there is no pressure on the springs when the skis are in the air. Like I said the lock nut and adjusters moved very easy and I had no use for the tools.

 

[SumpBuster]

I had to go back to tight, ad the insidea ski loft was too much and the front was sloppy. Knapp attack is correct...the swaybar is pretty small so I need tighter springs. Now when it picks, I can balance it with the throttle, and get the outside planted...still not super predictable but much better than soft. Curves with slim jims.

 

[ronzx9]

I don't know the exact measurement as my sled isn't close but it's around 2.5 " of thread showing and with the skis off the ground you have to pull on the spring pretty hard to get it off the nut even now. Originally the sled would lift the inside ski on every corner and was impossible to turn without massive effort. When I picked up the sled the rear springs were maxed with the shock damping at 2. It would bottom like crazy on the rear shock and rattled around the trail from every bump. In 2ft moguls at 30 or 40 mph it was ok but on g outs on fast trails the rear bottomed hard. Once I ruduced the rear springs to 1 the steering was better but bottoming got worse. The front skid spring is pretty tight and I didn't change that yet.

After reducing the ski springs the sled changed dramatically. I could corner way faster with minor inside ski lift. Before the adjustments i could only stay ahead ot the 1200 for a short period and i was out of breath. After he said it was very difficult to keep up. After reducing ski pressure it doesn't bottom anywhere near as often and the sled has a much smoother ride. I did a section with ski damping on 1 and the ride was excellent pillow like, but I gave up a bit in the corners. I've found I need to be decelerating in or just before the corner apex to get the sled to bite or I can stab the brake to get the front to take my intended line. This part of the handling needs more adjustments for me to be happy. At least throttle input can be used to adjust the ski line to some extent. Before any mid corner application of throttle would yank the inside ski up.

My buddy had a brand new 1200 gade and we switched back and forth. The xs steering was way lighter and you could use minor throttle adjustments in the corners to adjust the line. I like that. Even tiny thumb movements can be noticed in terms of ski bite. I think taking a bit of pressure off the front skid spring will allow more weigh shift cornering.

I'm wondering if the guys who are complaining about lack of transfer are referring to a lack of ability to load and unload the skis in a corner? That's where I'm at currently.

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[ronzx9]

I'm not sure if any of this is related to the 6.9 skis and how this all works together. I also found a difference in with moving back and forth on the seat. Moving way back REDUCED inside ski lift which isn't what I expected. All of this leads me to believe I had way to much ski pressure. At least it makes sense in my mind.

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[ROCKERDAN]

WOW that's crazy Ron. Are you sure your springs aren't too loose now? I have 4 1/2 of thread above my adjusters and there is no pressure on the springs when the skis are in the air. Like I said the lock nut and adjusters moved very easy and I had no use for the tools.

My fronts(RTX) bone stock have 3-3/4" of thread above adjusters. Sure a ton of adjustment I can play with here, in both directions. I know when lowering front end down, you gotta be careful to not go too loose with coils in front as when you catch air, the coils can be loose then, so need to be sure they have enough pressure to stay seated.

Great way to adjust is off ground for sure....on the trail flip sled up on side, at home on the lift nice and easy.

Its gonna be fun to dive into the setup...but im blown away how I HAVE NOT TOUCHED MY SUSPENSION setup yet, and in full soft it just feels fantastic already.....Hard to believe its that good out of box.

 

[XP123]

I'm not sure if any of this is related to the 6.9 skis and how this all works together. I also found a difference in with moving back and forth on the seat. Moving way back REDUCED inside ski lift which isn't what I expected. All of this leads me to believe I had way to much ski pressure. At least it makes sense in my mind.

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Ron I know Don tightened up the front coil over shock a bit to get weight off the skis. Maybe too much? I never tightened mine because when I have done it in the past I never liked the results. In my opinion tightening that center shock too much can ruin the ride and handling of a sled. I also don't like to extend the front limiter strap either for the same reason. I would bet the biggest reason you we're bottoming so bad was because that center shock is too stiff.