sweetjob
Extreme
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2007
- Messages
- 70
- Age
- 49
- Location
- minneapolis, mn
- Website
- blownconcepts.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 yamaha phazer
Patrick custom carbon makes a 7 and 8in carbon rotor. SUPER SIK!!!!
patrickcustomcarbon.com
no idea what size is on the nytro.
patrickcustomcarbon.com
no idea what size is on the nytro.
beeze455
Expert
sweetjob said:Patrick custom carbon makes a 7 and 8in carbon rotor. SUPER SIK!!!!
patrickcustomcarbon.com
no idea what size is on the nytro.
LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is $1400
a rotor for $1400. LOL
sweetjob
Extreme
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2007
- Messages
- 70
- Age
- 49
- Location
- minneapolis, mn
- Website
- blownconcepts.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 yamaha phazer
apparently the price of weight savings is spendy, I had no idea.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
So looking at the rotor it's pretty thin, wondering if the cooling fins are providing additional strength? The weight loss would be nice, but not at the expense of a warped rotor.
Nikolai said:So looking at the rotor it's pretty thin, wondering if the cooling fins are providing additional strength? The weight loss would be nice, but not at the expense of a warped rotor.
I've Got a spare Caleb, I'll drill them now and try it tomorrow.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
2.88 before, 1.9 after
You can see from my post times how long it took.
You can see from my post times how long it took.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Almost a pound, impressive. Are the cooling fins rigid or flimsy? Do you think they were stiffening the rotor at all?
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Hey Guys:
Rlcofmn, did you drill or grind them off? Just curious. I ordered a disk off ebay and am going to try the same thing.
Caleb, the disk looks pretty thick compared to superbikes, mind you their mounts are alot bigger in diameter too. I'm sure the fins stiffen the disk, but I still don't get why go this direction. Most other HP brakes I've seen use drilled disks to save weight and cool them down. I was looking at the new AC's and thats their approach.
I'm not too worried about warpage, because I'm not on them enough to get them that hot repeatedly, but with my luck, they'll warp.
The only thing I can see is the park brake contacting the disk as you bounce down the trail. Did you guys notice much brake dust on the RHS of the sled before you deleted the park brake? On my XTX, I've noticed that there is as much brake dust on the right as belt dust on the left, and it doesn't make sense to me. I've owned too many sleds to count, and I don't ever remember seeing so much dust....
Mind you with a 2 smoke, the concept of a clean cab was out the window too, so maybe it was there all along.
I'll get mine on too and see how it goes.
OTM
Rlcofmn, did you drill or grind them off? Just curious. I ordered a disk off ebay and am going to try the same thing.
Caleb, the disk looks pretty thick compared to superbikes, mind you their mounts are alot bigger in diameter too. I'm sure the fins stiffen the disk, but I still don't get why go this direction. Most other HP brakes I've seen use drilled disks to save weight and cool them down. I was looking at the new AC's and thats their approach.
I'm not too worried about warpage, because I'm not on them enough to get them that hot repeatedly, but with my luck, they'll warp.
The only thing I can see is the park brake contacting the disk as you bounce down the trail. Did you guys notice much brake dust on the RHS of the sled before you deleted the park brake? On my XTX, I've noticed that there is as much brake dust on the right as belt dust on the left, and it doesn't make sense to me. I've owned too many sleds to count, and I don't ever remember seeing so much dust....
Mind you with a 2 smoke, the concept of a clean cab was out the window too, so maybe it was there all along.
I'll get mine on too and see how it goes.
OTM
Caleb, the fin's were pretty flimsy, I don't think they were doing much of anything.
OTM, I used a center punch, 5/32 drill about 1/3-1/2 of the way in, a 1/4" bit to pop the head of the rivet from the stem and a punch to drive the remainder of the rivet through. It sound's much more complicated than it is, but using a slightly smaller bit aids in not messing up the hole with the drill.
As to break dust, I removed my parking brake before riding either of my sleds so I dont have a base to go off. But I go through 2 sets of brake pads a year so I think that's where my dust comes from. Another thing that I have had a problem with is getting ice behide the brake lever causing it to stick on.
OTM, I used a center punch, 5/32 drill about 1/3-1/2 of the way in, a 1/4" bit to pop the head of the rivet from the stem and a punch to drive the remainder of the rivet through. It sound's much more complicated than it is, but using a slightly smaller bit aids in not messing up the hole with the drill.
As to break dust, I removed my parking brake before riding either of my sleds so I dont have a base to go off. But I go through 2 sets of brake pads a year so I think that's where my dust comes from. Another thing that I have had a problem with is getting ice behide the brake lever causing it to stick on.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Caleb, the fin's were pretty flimsy, I don't think they were doing much of anything.
Good to know, I'll be doing my rotor tomorrow. I love free weight loss, especially rotating mass.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I got slightly different weights but free is free and it's still half a pound. I'm not sure how accurate my scale is either so I took the lowest before weight and highest after weight (weighed the rotor 3 times ea.) so I know the weight loss is at least 8 oz.
Before: 34 oz.
After: 26 oz.
Before: 34 oz.
After: 26 oz.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Hey Guys,
It will be pretty interesting to see if you can notice the difference. Since my MTX will be in parts until the new year, when I get the rotor, I'll test it on the xtx first.
....Of course that assumes snow, but it won't be long now.
OTM
It will be pretty interesting to see if you can notice the difference. Since my MTX will be in parts until the new year, when I get the rotor, I'll test it on the xtx first.
....Of course that assumes snow, but it won't be long now.
OTM
beeze455
Expert
Off Trail Mike said:Hey Guys,
It will be pretty interesting to see if you can notice the difference. Since my MTX will be in parts until the new year, when I get the rotor, I'll test it on the xtx first.
....Of course that assumes snow, but it won't be long now.
OTM
One thing, most likely not. You start adding up all kinds of small items and it will though.
I put on 65 miles yesterday and as beez stated it's not enough to notice but I didn't notice and change in performance. My rotor was warped when before so I will either be pulling mine off my MTX if I think it's any better or ordering a new one. I'm sick of pumping my brakes when I go to grab them. But either way I will be drilling the fins off.
I'm surprised your weights are off from mine Caleb. I will weigh mine again and see. I only did one quick weight before and after. I also thought about drilling out the counter balance weight since it's no longer accurate anyways. I had plenty of track speeds in excess of 100 yesterday and did not notice any vibrations.
I'm surprised your weights are off from mine Caleb. I will weigh mine again and see. I only did one quick weight before and after. I also thought about drilling out the counter balance weight since it's no longer accurate anyways. I had plenty of track speeds in excess of 100 yesterday and did not notice any vibrations.
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