Major Oil Leak-Need advice

[Mountaintech]

Well, don't have good news to post. I got an oil pressure gauge for my buddy. Never got around to checking it and he decided to drive the sled anyhow as it seemed to work okay. Well, about 200 miles after the oil leak blew a rod through the case. We didn't take anything apart yet but you can look down be the filter and see the crank. For anyone who has had a major oil leak such as this, pretty good chance the motor is going to blow. Thanks to everyone for the great advice in the post as it was spot on. Just too bad we didn't check this one.

Sorry to hear the bad news. Sounds all too familiar.......sort of like my post on Page 1 of this thread.

 

[WNY PAT]

Man. That sux! Sorry to hear!

 

[09nytro]

Man that sucks .....I have seen some eng. around for sale .....on here and ebay ect......Good Luck with it hope you guys get it back running soon ....

 

[jaydaniels]

Motors for these aren't cheap that's for sure. I saw a block and case for sale. I wonder if it would be worth even trying to fix.

 

[yamaha1973]

sorry for the loss

 

[09nytro]

Motors for these aren't cheap that's for sure. I saw a block and case for sale. I wonder if it would be worth even trying to fix.

I think it would be but its up to you ....If it was me i would fix it new eng and go over everything just to make sure

 

[Mtnviper]

Motors for these aren't cheap that's for sure. I saw a block and case for sale. I wonder if it would be worth even trying to fix.

Thats to bad, I hate to see things like this happen to a guy.

As for repairing it, your very likely better off getting another engine.
It's going to need upper/lower engine block assembly, crank shaft, 3 rods (very good chance the other two have spun rod bearings), all bearings, oil pump (will have had metal gone through it), most likely the piston in the cylinder with the broken rod, rings, gaskets and head bolts (head bolts are non-reusble)
Also while its apart, there is an extremely good chance that it will have some bent valves, due to the piston(s) contacting the valves when the rod bearings went out.
**I can't stress enough how important it is to go through the head and check the valves for straightness, even though they may "look ok".**
The valves are very small and may not show any witness marks of piston to valve contact. Best way to check them is to chuck the valves up in a lathe a slowly rotate them.
If the valves are even slightly bent from piston contact, they will stick open at higher rpms. Once they start to hang open, the piston comes up and smacks the valve a few times, the head of the valve breaks off and you just lunched your newly rebuilt motor.

Also don't forget to flush out the oil cooler and oil tank as there will be metal through out the oiling system.

Bill

 

[09nytro]

Yes new Eng. I wouldn't rebuild that one...that's what I meant to say

 

[jaydaniels]

Thanks for the advice. Might be better off parting the sled out. 3000 seems like a lot to spend on a used machine.

 

[jaydaniels]

Well, looks like he's going with a new motor. Luckily found one locally for a very good price. Anything that should be checked out on the new motor or sled during the motor swap. We are debating whether or not to check the rod bearings as piece of mind.

 

[Mtnviper]

Well, looks like he's going with a new motor. Luckily found one locally for a very good price. Anything that should be checked out on the new motor or sled during the motor swap. We are debating whether or not to check the rod bearings as piece of mind.

Since it's a local engine, you may be ble to ask round to see if the previous owner had any oil loss issues.
If it has no history of oil loss, then your probably ok to run it as is.
If your unsure about the history, then I probably would pull it apart on the bottom end just to make sure shes good to go!
As far as the sled is concerned, the main thing is to flush out the oil tank and cooler as mentioned above. Its a good idea to replace all of the oil hoses while the sled is torn down as well