make your Nytro rock, some critical suspension settings

[lucky_7]

I am not as stupid as I thought I was.....I should have read from the beginning....I was talking about the shocks on the skid of a RTX.....

Please continue on without my dumb interruptions.

 

[unchained]

I have the rear springs on hard now.. My head hurts with all the info on here. I'm 250lbs+ gear and I have the rear shock compression set to hard. I pulled the front limiter strap one hole as of now.. It steers a bit better but the handling is still iffy.. So whats my next move? Take the front limiter strap down one more hole and take the rear limiter strap down one or two holes? I think I will take some rebound out of the front GYTR's too. I'm so confused about cranking down the spring on the front ski shock. Some posts say crank it down. Some say don't. My heads hurts.. Calling my dealer to lodge my complaint on my poor working handwarmers, soaked left boot problem, crazy hot muffler, and belt smoking problem.

We have been talking about Front GYTR all along, humor me and try this, ride a shitty section back and forth with stock setting were the front is dancing around and feels iffy. Now back out rebound to 20 clicks from 0 and back out compression 12 clicks from 0. Run the same section back and forth and see what happens, you may be very pleasantly surprised.

Agreed, Im confident you will be surprised!!

 

[NB-NYTRO]

I don't even think my rebound will come out 20 clicks. I think it will only do like 18 clicks all the way out.. how many are we supposed to have?

 

[Reaper]

I don't even think my rebound will come out 20 clicks. I think it will only do like 18 clicks all the way out.. how many are we supposed to have?

That tells me you are not zeroing out the adjuster and it is stiff like mine. When you think it is at zero get a philips screwdrive on the screw in the adjuster and you fingers on ther adjuster and reef on it and see if it has any more clicks left.

 

[Reaper]

Well thought I was getting close until I ran some serious nasty moguls today and the sled was friggin scary unstable. Bottoming hard and almost pitching me over the bars. Seems this setup is great for stutters and small chop and cornering but bad for real rough trails.

Stiffened up the rebound and compression on the GYTR and it was ridebale bit still bottomed hard in the back. Going back to factory setting and ride that nasty section again. Appears not to be a good all around setup unfortuneately.

 

[unchained]

Well thought I was getting close until I ran some serious nasty moguls today and the sled was friggin scary unstable. Bottoming hard and almost pitching me over the bars. Seems this setup is great for stutters and small chop and cornering but bad for real rough trails.

Stiffened up the rebound and compression on the GYTR and it was ridebale bit still bottomed hard in the back. Going back to factory setting and ride that nasty section again. Appears not to be a good all around setup unfortuneately.

I was afraid of that same thing. Since my rear skid is already out right now, Im prob going to revalve my rear shock at least if not both back shocks. Im also stretching to 128 hoping it will bridge the nasty's better too though.
I also seriously question the stock springs up front on the GYTR's and if a dual rate set-up wouldnt be the ticket....

 

[Turk]

I can bottom hard in real nasty stuff no matter how i set mine up but it works well in the stuuters. the big g bumps just plain hurt & I nearly get pitched over the bars.

 

[Reaper]

I can bottom hard in real nasty stuff no matter how i set mine up but it works well in the stuuters. the big g bumps just plain hurt & I nearly get pitched over the bars.

And that is just plain wrong for this category of sled.

 

[unpride]

All I know as I figured it out rails the turns better or as good as an XP and 600RR. Bumps puts the XP X to shame 600RR suspension is sick but they are equal IMO. Ski push taken care of 9 inch sharpers now I need to put the studs in that have been sitting in the garage for weeks. The only problem is the gas milage it sucks I have 700 miles on it and can only get about 85 miles but im never just cruising gas consumption equal to the 800R motor. Have a couple little secrets that will being done to the clutch. Talked to a pahzer guy with the the little mods he did hes pullin 107 so these will be being done this week. All in all it has been turned into a different sled

 

[gormleyflyer2002]

All I know as I figured it out rails the turns better or as good as an XP and 600RR. Bumps puts the XP X to shame 600RR suspension is sick but they are equal IMO. Ski push taken care of 9 inch sharpers now I need to put the studs in that have been sitting in the garage for weeks. The only problem is the gas milage it sucks I have 700 miles on it and can only get about 85 miles but im never just cruising gas consumption equal to the 800R motor. Have a couple little secrets that will being done to the clutch. Talked to a pahzer guy with the the little mods he did hes pullin 107 so these will be being done this week. All in all it has been turned into a different sled

unpride
what position are your straps on front/back...?

 

[NB-NYTRO]

So put on 80 miles on some real beat up trails... I have the front limiter strap pulled down 3 holes.. I backed out the GYTR's comp 10 out and like 13 put on the rebound. The rear springs on hard. Rear shock compression on full hard. Ski stance widened and C&A Razors installed. It railed awesome.. Soaked up lots of trail junk. It didn't bottom out once. I'm real impressed. Its awesome through the twisties and tight trails. A guy I was riding with rolled his Crossfire over coming out of a section of trail with two huge woops in the trail. He was trying to stay with me. I was able to pull through it. I was able to get the sled back down on both skis even though I was side ways in the air. I hurt my left ankle in the process. Now its time to re-gear and to clutch it up. Turbo be nice too!

 

[unchained]

I can bottom hard in real nasty stuff no matter how i set mine up but it works well in the stuuters. the big g bumps just plain hurt & I nearly get pitched over the bars.

Thats why Im now on the hunt for a local shock service to revalve and attempt to still allow this thing to skip over the trail crap like most of us finding success now AND also not buck like a wild stallion in the nasty's

 

[08NitroRTX]

I can bottom hard in real nasty stuff no matter how i set mine up but it works well in the stuuters. the big g bumps just plain hurt & I nearly get pitched over the bars.

Thats why Im now on the hunt for a local shock service to revalve and attempt to still allow this thing to skip over the trail crap like most of us finding success now AND also not buck like a wild stallion in the nasty's

Revalving can help this with mutiple stage valving. Soft on the bottom firm on the rest... The stock shocks have a very basic valve stack....

 

[AZOLSC]

I just installed a star suspension relocation kit and 128 in track and my RTX has all the 4 stroke power but now off trail I feel like im on a light 2 stroke, so if u ride 20% or more off trail I promise this is the best thing you can upgrade on this sled.

 

[Lakehouse2021]

Dredging up this old (and great) thread. I realize its located under the FX area, and my sled is an RS.

Question is about the front shock/spring on the rear suspension. This thread says that for more comfortable handling on trail bumps, to spin the nuts all the way to the greatest travel. I bought this sled this summer, previous to me, that had the suspension all REAL hard, this spring has lost some of its axial length, as I open up the travel the spring gets loose in the pocket.

Option 1 seems to take the spring out, try and stretch it to gain some length....?
Option 2 appears to be, only backing the nuts out to where the spring stays in contact....?

If there are other options, I'd like to hear them. thanks!