gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I love this sled, it rocks, the best sled I have owned by far. I will admit I was worried after my first few rides.....not now.
I hope this will help some of the guys struggling to find the sweet spot on this sled.....it can be done, for me anyway.
After 800km I have a better idea how to get the sled to work well, learned a few things along the way......some bad but mostly I'm very happy with this sled. This has taken a while as I have made small changes every time out.
RTX, Ohlins hy/lo front shocks, pilot skis, 96 studs. (230 lb pilot)
I like un groomed trails and tend to ride like a nut job according to some.
Below is a good starting point for trail riding set up.
My main complaints being, generaly clumsy handing sled, ski lift, tippy, unstable, and the dreaded but kinda fun sometimes wheelies.
This sled is very sensitive to ride height, the smallest adustment has a very noticible effect on handling.....some settings contradict what I once thought or knew from previous sleds. Its very much a balance, change something at one end and you'll find it affects the other end and yes you will adjust again till your down to only nit picking. It's actually good that the sled is this sensitive, it can be tuned for most everyone I'm sure
Skis
Ski-Doo Pilots, personal preference for me, for sure not aggresive enough for anyone riding in loose or deep snow. I hate heavy steering sleds and these work great. A great ski for packed, beaten and rutted trails in Ontario.....they would push in anything loose. If you stand mostly and like to load the front end then they are perfect.
Limiter strap (front)
Moving up one or two holes helps fight the weight shift wheelies. Other than installing a different coupling block, this is the best method to control the weight shift without spendng money or mod the skid location. The steering is not much heavier even on the 2nd hole and you can still get the front end light or up and over trail bombs.
Center or front track shock,
This shock is critical and has the most effect on overall sled handing and ride. I'm sure guys who have lifted their limiter strap have now noticed more ski lift in corners and harsher and unstable ride in the trail junk. I lifted the strap 2 holes and have the spring preload showing only 1-2 threads. If you haven't changed your spring preload after moving the strap either 1 or 2......do it now, it makes a MASSIVE DIFFERENCE. I'm heavy, can't imagine anyone under my weight showing anymore thread. It's not hard to do on the side of the trail.....play with this spring. If you go to light on this shock spring preload it feels like you blow through it and get donkey kicked by the rear end.......this is the balance, start from a very light spring preload and adjust it to you find what you can live with. Adjust it so you can find the best ride in the stutters. It's a different setting for those that stand or sit.
Rear shock/spring
I have the springs on hard, stock blocks, have heavier springs on order.
Clickers
I find that adjusting them to hard settings only makes the small bumps harsher and does nothing for big hits and "g" outs....this is a negative of the shock. I have the front track shock @ 7 comp / 8 rebound from full hard. Rear shock, comp 8, rebound 8.
Front shocks.
I ditched the Fox floats.....I have Ohlins with 1.9kg springs so maybe not apples to apples comparison but it applies IMO. (base nytro er springs are 1.7kg) This is maybe where others will disagree with me. I found with both the fox and my ohlins that the sled handles better with either lower pressure or light spring preload. I have maybe 8mm prelaod on my shocks. For some reason when I make the front end stiffer or tighter it makes the sled very spooky and dump truck like. It just seems to handle and steer handle much better with looser feel for some reason. I found when it was set up hard it just seemed to be tippy and felt bound up and had no give or bite in corners. Not sure it makes sense to me but it has worked much better this way. I think it might have something to do with the sled having a very stiff chassis, I found this back in my MX days when we went from steel flexie frames to stiffer alumium one.....suspension had to change also......we ran softer suspension to make the bikes turn and handle.!!
some of the above are also hints that "08Nytro" has mentioned, although he's biting his tongue mostly due to racing secrets......the bugger.
This sled requires that you move around a bit and works best when standing....I'm afraid sit down or APEX guys might be better of on.......well, an APEX or ATTACK.
Mine now handles like an 03 REV only better.....but with a really freaking fun motor. this is a good thing. well done Yamaha...!!
ps you gas milage will go down when you get this sled set up.....it's way to hard not to flog the life out of it.
oh yah, my warmers suck, feet are damp......who cares.
I hope this will help some of the guys struggling to find the sweet spot on this sled.....it can be done, for me anyway.
After 800km I have a better idea how to get the sled to work well, learned a few things along the way......some bad but mostly I'm very happy with this sled. This has taken a while as I have made small changes every time out.
RTX, Ohlins hy/lo front shocks, pilot skis, 96 studs. (230 lb pilot)
I like un groomed trails and tend to ride like a nut job according to some.
Below is a good starting point for trail riding set up.
My main complaints being, generaly clumsy handing sled, ski lift, tippy, unstable, and the dreaded but kinda fun sometimes wheelies.
This sled is very sensitive to ride height, the smallest adustment has a very noticible effect on handling.....some settings contradict what I once thought or knew from previous sleds. Its very much a balance, change something at one end and you'll find it affects the other end and yes you will adjust again till your down to only nit picking. It's actually good that the sled is this sensitive, it can be tuned for most everyone I'm sure
Skis
Ski-Doo Pilots, personal preference for me, for sure not aggresive enough for anyone riding in loose or deep snow. I hate heavy steering sleds and these work great. A great ski for packed, beaten and rutted trails in Ontario.....they would push in anything loose. If you stand mostly and like to load the front end then they are perfect.
Limiter strap (front)
Moving up one or two holes helps fight the weight shift wheelies. Other than installing a different coupling block, this is the best method to control the weight shift without spendng money or mod the skid location. The steering is not much heavier even on the 2nd hole and you can still get the front end light or up and over trail bombs.
Center or front track shock,
This shock is critical and has the most effect on overall sled handing and ride. I'm sure guys who have lifted their limiter strap have now noticed more ski lift in corners and harsher and unstable ride in the trail junk. I lifted the strap 2 holes and have the spring preload showing only 1-2 threads. If you haven't changed your spring preload after moving the strap either 1 or 2......do it now, it makes a MASSIVE DIFFERENCE. I'm heavy, can't imagine anyone under my weight showing anymore thread. It's not hard to do on the side of the trail.....play with this spring. If you go to light on this shock spring preload it feels like you blow through it and get donkey kicked by the rear end.......this is the balance, start from a very light spring preload and adjust it to you find what you can live with. Adjust it so you can find the best ride in the stutters. It's a different setting for those that stand or sit.
Rear shock/spring
I have the springs on hard, stock blocks, have heavier springs on order.
Clickers
I find that adjusting them to hard settings only makes the small bumps harsher and does nothing for big hits and "g" outs....this is a negative of the shock. I have the front track shock @ 7 comp / 8 rebound from full hard. Rear shock, comp 8, rebound 8.
Front shocks.
I ditched the Fox floats.....I have Ohlins with 1.9kg springs so maybe not apples to apples comparison but it applies IMO. (base nytro er springs are 1.7kg) This is maybe where others will disagree with me. I found with both the fox and my ohlins that the sled handles better with either lower pressure or light spring preload. I have maybe 8mm prelaod on my shocks. For some reason when I make the front end stiffer or tighter it makes the sled very spooky and dump truck like. It just seems to handle and steer handle much better with looser feel for some reason. I found when it was set up hard it just seemed to be tippy and felt bound up and had no give or bite in corners. Not sure it makes sense to me but it has worked much better this way. I think it might have something to do with the sled having a very stiff chassis, I found this back in my MX days when we went from steel flexie frames to stiffer alumium one.....suspension had to change also......we ran softer suspension to make the bikes turn and handle.!!
some of the above are also hints that "08Nytro" has mentioned, although he's biting his tongue mostly due to racing secrets......the bugger.
This sled requires that you move around a bit and works best when standing....I'm afraid sit down or APEX guys might be better of on.......well, an APEX or ATTACK.
Mine now handles like an 03 REV only better.....but with a really freaking fun motor. this is a good thing. well done Yamaha...!!
ps you gas milage will go down when you get this sled set up.....it's way to hard not to flog the life out of it.
oh yah, my warmers suck, feet are damp......who cares.
