make your Nytro rock, some critical suspension settings

if you have the strap pulled 2 holes....you'll be surprised how much center spring prelaod you have even when adjusted to no threads left below the jam nut.

I try to adjust it so that it doesn't always bottom or go so deep into the stroke that you get donkey kicked in the arse buy the rear......a little firmier keeps you more on top of the bumps. A balance I guess. I have a couple of threads showing but most will +/- I guess. A few mm's makes a huge difference in ride quality on this sled.
 
I'm 250 on the Fx. I pulled the limiter strap one hole. (handles like a different sled now). with Razor skis and rear springs on hard. The rear shock compression is set too full hard. I need some more seat time to see how it rides and go from there. I dunno if this helps any of the heavier guys or not. I will post more info as changes are made.
 
NB-NYTRO said:
I'm 250 on the Fx. I pulled the limiter strap one hole. (handles like a different sled now). with Razor skis and rear springs on hard. The rear shock compression is set too full hard. I need some more seat time to see how it rides and go from there. I dunno if this helps any of the heavier guys or not. I will post more info as changes are made.
How is the steering effort with the limiter strap up one hole? I have outlaws on mine and I'm afraid if I lift the straps, It'll make it even worse. So far I've backed off preload on front shocks 1/8", rebound @ 14 clicks, compression @ 4 clicks. center shock I've backed off 1/8" to see if there is any noticeable affect, but gut feeling tells me if I want lighter steering, I should crank up preload on center. rear is @ 4 clicks compression and springs on M. I bottom the front gytr's all the time, so it is frustrating to have heavy steering, yet bottom often. HELP. Wanted - lighter steering effort, less bottoming(front & rear), & less inside ski lift.
 
I found it steered alot better. The steering effort was the same or less. However the sled handled better-night and day better. I've noticed the front ski shocks bottom occasionally. I've noticed it on nose heavy landings. I'm going to crank up the compession and leave the rebound where it is. So far so good. I need more seat time.
 
[/quote]HELP. Wanted - lighter steering effort, less bottoming(front & rear), & less inside ski lift.[/quote]

You hit the nail on the head! During the holidays I'm going to try some new settings now that I'm familiar with the ride. I have put on 200 miles with stock set-up riding aggressive whooped out trails and lots of laps on a snowcross track. I can jump approaches and the sled flies predictable but overjumping and flat landing it will bottom out. I increased the fox floats to 125 psi....tooo stiff and armstrong steering, one lap and I had arm pump. I lowered it to 100 psi and that helped a bit but it's still to hard to turn. I'm sure lowering it to 45psi would make it turn like butter but I'm afraid I'll be bottoming it out in the big stuff. I luv this sled thru the stutters, you can blitz the whoops and it stays in control and only bottoms out near the end of a long run due to shock fade.

I installed a 121 x 1.75" backcountry track, Ulmer racing clutch kit, rox adjustable riser and a ultra q exhaust.
The track works as expected
Riser is perfect for me
Clutch kit works well
Exhaust sounds nice but a little loud for me
Yesterday I noticed while riding if I mashed the throttle there was a slight hesitation, not sure if this is due to exhaust and stock efi mapping. I will have to ride my other stock RTX and see.

I think all of the reviews people have posted are spot on and I'm sure Yamaha will address them if it's warranted. No sled is perfect but the Nytro is by far the best offering from Yamaha to date.
 
I think all or most nytro's have a slight hesitation /sputter on occasion. I believe they are just running very rich, a little fuel management will probably help & increase hp also. IMO
 
I will agree that the settings that were listed at the start of this thread will make a WORLD of difference on your Nytro. I have my front strap pulled two holes and the front spring showing one thread - big difference. I would also recommend softening the spring preload up front and then adjusting the dampening and rebound. If you weigh closer to 150-180 you might want to go soft on the springs and adjust the dampening out.
 
Here's my set-up. It certainly is not the gospel, but hopefully it will help as a starting point for those that are having a hell of a time..........

Fox Floats - 45#

Center Shock:
Compression - 3 clicks ccw
Rebound - 12 clicks ccw

Rear Shock:
Compression - 6 clicks ccw
Rebound - 12 clicks ccw

Torsion Springs - Medium

Limiter Strap - Up one hole from stock

Coupling blocks are from an '03 F7. Handles the bumps very well!! Tracks straight, very little darting, handles the bumps quite well! I am going to try a few things to make sure I'm on to a good thing. The next adjustment I am going to dial in is the preload on the center shock. Other that, this thing is very close to were I'm going to keep it!!
 
SKYBOYZ, are you sure on the comp, and rebound, i thought it was the other way around with com 12, and rebound 3? I was wondering if anyone tried to move the center shock up instead of down, and turn down the comp., and rebound. would this make the front end be able to get up off the ground more, as of right now i have pretty much the same set up with c&a skis on the rtx, and 75 lbs in the front shocks, oh and the limiter straps are all the way up still yet. I thought it worked well in the trails, and the darting went away quit a bit, but i need the front to float a little better, i would like the front end up more and rear down. I was just wondering if anyone went the other way with the center shock yet? and crank down the rear suspension so it was soft? Bottoming out has not yet been a problem for me so i'd like to try this? I'm thinking if you twist the ceneter shock up someways, and you lessen the com, and rebound, that you'll banlence it out more? sorry guys maybe i'm talking out of my azz but who knows untill we try it. (wish they would have set these sleds up like in the dvd, they look like alot of fun set up that way!!!!!
 
Kingedwards...skyboz is correct. There is 12 clicks for each compression and 20 for each rebound on the skid shocks.

I weigh a lot more than skyboz and I am running mine way softer than his. I have my rebound set at 10 clicks ccw and compression set at 6 clicks ccw for each shock. So far, in the 200 miles that I rode, it is closer to what I like than stock. My next adjustment is going to be to increase the pre-load on the center shock a little bit at a time to see how it changes everything else.

I haven't hit the 'big' whoop yet, but we did ride for a lot of miles on the 1-2 footers and I haven't bottomed yet.
 
With the rebound only 3 clicks ccw, your shock is going to return alot faster than if it was set at 18 ccw!! With a fast rebound you'll get alot of "bounce" and the sled will sort of kick and buck around! You want it fast enough to absorb the next bump, but slow enough so the sled will stay planted and settled down. All this depends on your riding style and terrain! I may have it at 12 for groomed trails that get beat up as the day wears on, and for that occasional "big" one. However, NyTrOmAnIaC has his a touch faster because he is hitting bigger bumps that are closer together!! Are you pickin' up what I'm layin' down?? :bling
 
I'm at 12 ccw and it's slow. Lucky 7 is at like 16 and I feel I'll see the second coming before his sled tops out!!!! So, I am positive it's ccw slows down the rebound!!! ;)!
 


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