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MBRP header cracked at welds

Yama 1000

Extreme
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Messages
95
Location
Rochester ny
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2015 viper LTX DX
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Has anyone else run into the same issue as me. My MBRP header that is three ayers old has cracked at the weld joints. Can this be fixed or do I need a new header .
 

Did you email the company? I had to re weld the pipe on my 07 mxz440x as it cracked on the weld seem, that looked like a 5 year old kid tried to weld it originally from the factory. It was ceramic coated and the weld held up great for the next season for me. Cost $15 bucks
 
Yes it can be fixed pretty easily by a experienced welder. How old is it? If it's not too old I would contact MBRP to see if they will replace it. This is very common for MBRP products from my experience. I have never owned any of their products cause I think they are way too loud and they all break. I have riding partners that have their stuff and I have welded on all of them. Good luck!
 
Common for MBRP header on a nytro. Seen it several times and even know of one that blew a triangle shaped piece that connects the three pipes out the back somewhere never to be found. Try the company , if they don't help get it welded by a good shop but be prepared to do it again down the road.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I will be taking it to a local shop to get it welded. I'm hoping to get another year out of it then I will be purchasing a QUALITY header. I did email MBRP and have not received a reply or phone call yet.
 
I have personally had my Excel Header break all apart after 3 yrs and yes they said if I sent it to them they could try to re-weld it. Another friend had a Hauck that completely destroyed itself so all are prone to go after time. Currently I have an Aaen pipe that is heavier as it is out of mild steel but it is ceramic coated too. Seems to put out same or more HP as the Excel as I run drag n fly clutch weights and I am over reving all the time into the rev limiter now and never did it with my Excel setup.
 
mnman309 check your clutch arms that the weights go in…mine worn a groove in them. dragon fly said it was common thing with nytros….cost me $75 for new arms….
 
thanks for the heads up and I am on a 2nd set of the Drag N Flys, new last year. But yes they groove after about 2-3 yrs of riding but you get the best gains in top speed with them. Good ole Turk figured that out for us!
 
mnman309 check your clutch arms that the weights go in…mine worn a groove in them. dragon fly said it was common thing with nytros….cost me $75 for new arms….

Second set of D& F's also...My header is in three pieces with holes where the bracket was welded on...my welder said he could try but it probably wouldn't last the season...I emailed Ulmer and he said Excel weren't making them anymore and offered me a MBRP mid pipe at his cost (I felt this was fair as the problem isn't his fault). I've decided to try another company and have come down to a Hindle or an Aaen ...can anyone comment on how tough the Hindel set up is...I can't find an Aaen dealer in Canada and to ship one up from the states is crazy expensive. Comments?
 
Second set of D& F's also...My header is in three pieces with holes where the bracket was welded on...my welder said he could try but it probably wouldn't last the season...I emailed Ulmer and he said Excel weren't making them anymore and offered me a MBRP mid pipe at his cost (I felt this was fair as the problem isn't his fault). I've decided to try another company and have come down to a Hindle or an Aaen ...can anyone comment on how tough the Hindel set up is...I can't find an Aaen dealer in Canada and to ship one up from the states is crazy expensive. Comments?
I can help with the Hindle stuff...DnF's with Turks black spring set up works perfect. If you don't have any airbox mods done you'll want to get that too. The full kit is $1299 from Hurricane
 
shadow44-- can you pm me Turks setup with the Black Spring- I am running with the red spring setup and want to try that. My other alternative is to run Ulmers kit that i have too.
 


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