Measuring offset

[ranger1]

Correct Clutch to clutch offset is vital and very important for the Sidewinders. There has been lots of discussions about it, how the offset is set differently on the newer sleds then the older models, preffered spec, etc. I just wanted to share my way of measuring the offset, it is very accurate as well. There is a tool available but some do not want to pay the price for it. Also the clutch has to be removed and dismantled to mount the tool to it.
I just use 2 straight edges ( the metal ruler parts from 2 squares, can use anything that fits, lol) attach one with a clamp to the secondary near the edge where it is flat, hold the otherone tight behind the primary and use a caliper between the 2.
I know lots of you probably already do it this way, just putting it out there for the ones looking for an accurate way to measure the offset.

 

[Simplespeed]

Yes thats the measurement you need to figure out how much you need to adjust the true offset in order for your belt to shift thur the gear ratio’s in the most efficient manner and at the same time reduce friction but still maintain belt grip properly. That is unless you intend to let your secondary clutch float as that also works for some clutch tuners… When you let your clutch float it will find its own proper off set as it shifts thur the ratio’s the question is and always been is it as effective and efficient as fixed.. From my experience and many hours of testing I found it to be close but not as good as fixed…Thats is of course your off set needs to be dead on perfect and your clutches not allowed to move under load..

 

[sabrecat]

Correct Clutch to clutch offset is vital and very important for the Sidewinders. There has been lots of discussions about it, how the offset is set differently on the newer sleds then the older models, preffered spec, etc. I just wanted to share my way of measuring the offset, it is very accurate as well. There is a tool available but some do not want to pay the price for it. Also the clutch has to be removed and dismantled to mount the tool to it.
I just use 2 straight edges ( the metal ruler parts from 2 squares, can use anything that fits, lol) attach one with a clamp to the secondary near the edge where it is flat, hold the otherone tight behind the primary and use a caliper between the 2.
I know lots of you probably already do it this way, just putting it out there for the ones looking for an accurate way to measure the offset.

The correct offset is 57.5mm. The book is wrong unless has been updated? Thunder Products can explain.

 

[ranger1]

The correct offset is 57.5mm. The book is wrong unless has been updated? Thunder Products can explain.

Yes but the newer Winders are a bit different then the older ones, more offset is recommended, not sure of the numbers though

 

[Simplespeed]

It may 57.5 on some sleds, its possible base on manufacturing tolerances. it could be 59.5 on some , like Knapp suggests each sled should be measured and clutches mocked up at full shift. It makes a difference to be dead on perfect. When you have perfect alignment you stand a whole lot better chance to get your clutching shifting at the right RPM throughout the entire range of your gear ratio’s provided your clutching is in the ballpark where it needs to be for your machine..

 

[fatchance]

All i will say is this. After removing the stub shaft, pressing the bearing to seat it in the housing along with removing 3mm off the secondary hub the least offset i could achieve is 59mm. This is with it up against the circlip. I also found the bearing was not pressed on to the shoulder on the stub shaft and this is on a 2025. Fortunately it took 59.22 mm to achieve alignment!

 

[jonlafon1]

All i will say is this. After removing the stub shaft, pressing the bearing to seat it in the housing along with removing 3mm off the secondary hub the least offset i could achieve is 59mm. This is with it up against the circlip. I also found the bearing was not pressed on to the shoulder on the stub shaft and this is on a 2025. Fortunately it took 59.22 mm to achieve alignment!

BINGO

 

[fatchance]

It being a brand new bearing I didn't want to push it out of the housing by the inner race to lather it in retaining compound for fear of damaging the bearing. Instead I marked the water pump housing with a small dot that i can easily check clearance off the stationary sheave of the primary to monitor if the bearing has moved out of the housing.

 

[KnappAttack]

I don't remember the exact number, but I do know that my 23 needs approx 1.5 mm or so more than my 17 was running using new XS825 belts. So saying that, the Hurricane bar does not work correctly on my 23. What changed? I believe the center to center changed from my 17 to the 23. A new XS 825 belt needs to sit down further in my 23 secondary than it did on the 17 with the same deflection.

There are many factors that will make the offset perfect for every machine, center to center, belt length and width as well. Only way to know the perfect offset is to measure it with the belt under tension and use a straight edge on the belt at full shift on the clutches and measure from belt to the straight edge to find out what's perfect on your machine and belt being used.

 

[fatchance]

So Mike, i made all the exact same measurements between my brother's LTX LE and my XTX LE. Aligned the belts in the same exact manner and said to him your center to center must be different than mine until i was putting the belt back on and realized i had an 8DN on mine compared to his XS825. The alignment with the XS825 was 59.54mm with the the same clearance from the exact same spot from TAPP sheave to the dot on the waterpump housing. So taking that into consideration moving from an 8DN to an XS825 you may want to shim out for the belt by .25mm
I will say though i did get more overdrive with the longer 8DN mocked than the XS825 which i felt was closer to 1:1 ratio.

 

[ranger1]

All i will say is this. After removing the stub shaft, pressing the bearing to seat it in the housing along with removing 3mm off the secondary hub the least offset i could achieve is 59mm. This is with it up against the circlip. I also found the bearing was not pressed on to the shoulder on the stub shaft and this is on a 2025. Fortunately it took 59.22 mm to achieve alignment!

fatchance, did you try your secondary without the spring after milling 3mm off the shaft to see what you had for clearance at full shift out? Mine was close to frame part that the jackshaft bearing went into and I only took off 2mm and kept the washer behind the clutch.

 

[fatchance]

Yes there was no clearance issue there. I typically take 4mm off without any issues.

 

[ranger1]

Yes there was no clearance issue there. I typically take 4mm off without any issues.

Yes there was no clearance issue there. I typically take 4mm off without any issues.

Ok I guess they all can be a bit different. I put a very small bead of grease on the back side of my secondary, installed it on the jackshaft then pushed the inner sleeve all the way in and the grease touched the frame on the sled. Didn't flatten it so I was ok, probably 1 to 2mm clearance.

 

[rb2001srx700]

When you are mocking up the clutches. Are you removing the springs? and can the clutches over shift without them in?

 

[ranger1]

When you are mocking up the clutches. Are you removing the springs? and can the clutches over shift without them in?

When measuring the clearance behind the secondary remove the spring so you can easily push the movable sheave to full shift out, it will stop once it is there. It will not go past that point when the spring is in place and WOT, if anything, might not even reach that point.