Misfire code 33

[Dynomax666]

Guys I've had an intermittent code 33 (I know it points to coil#1). Had it thought it might be plugs changed them went away for awhile. Came back again I did Donuts and swapped coils this time to see if it was in fact the coil it was not nor has 34 ever came on a I would have expected if it was the coil. Went away and then on the stator failure after the code 46 it came back on again. Long story short got the stator done today full voltage charging at 14.2v and code 33 came on idled it a short time topping up antifreeze and it went away. So did a short rest trip about 5 miles in back the 33 came. I've Cheecked all the ground blocks I know of including the problematic yellow one they all look good and have all been treeated to dielectric. Anyone have any idea what this might be? It's not the coil and its unlikely the new plugs are bad.

I've read all the posts here and in the venture lite not many results. Some have changed ecu with no luck, plugs, coils. If it was as simple as a coil I would have expected code 33 to switch to code 34

I kind of thought it might have been related to the bad stator ad since state weird issues leading up to a complete failure.

I even heard someone say they had luck increasing idle helped as low idle was causing this??

Thanks so much hate to junk this out but I don't feel like throwing a $600 ecu at a problem as a guess

 

[74Nitro]

Guys I've had an intermittent code 33 (I know it points to coil#1). Had it thought it might be plugs changed them went away for awhile. Came back again I did Donuts and swapped coils this time to see if it was in fact the coil it was not nor has 34 ever came on a I would have expected if it was the coil. Went away and then on the stator failure after the code 46 it came back on again. Long story short got the stator done today full voltage charging at 14.2v and code 33 came on idled it a short time topping up antifreeze and it went away. So did a short rest trip about 5 miles in back the 33 came. I've Cheecked all the ground blocks I know of including the problematic yellow one they all look good and have all been treeated to dielectric. Anyone have any idea what this might be? It's not the coil and its unlikely the new plugs are bad.

I've read all the posts here and in the venture lite not many results. Some have changed ecu with no luck, plugs, coils. If it was as simple as a coil I would have expected code 33 to switch to code 34

I kind of thought it might have been related to the bad stator ad since state weird issues leading up to a complete failure.

I even heard someone say they had luck increasing idle helped as low idle was causing this??

Thanks so much hate to junk this out but I don't feel like throwing a $600 ecu at a problem as a guess

Read through my posts in this attached thread.

A Little Stumped

Got a Stumble of some sorts. First 2 days of the Give Away Ride weekend my Attak would stumble intermittently when over 8000rpm. I could pin it and it would hit 10,500 the speed would rise and then it would stumble. The rpm's would change but it felt like I was tapping the brake or hitting soft...

ty4stroke.com

 

[74Nitro]

Also check the wires right by the connector for breaks.
Don't change the ECU, it isn't your trouble.

 

[Dynomax666]

Also check the wires right by the connector for breaks.
Don't change the ECU, it isn't your trouble.

That makes sense as swapping coil makes same result. Is that sub harness multiple leads or just the one for each coil? Maybe I can swap 1 for 2 as a test. I can't seem to find that part only a sub harness for fuel tank.

Disappointing as the stator replacement was good was hoping for a good March break riding!! Getting a strong 14v now though!

Thank you I'll pull fuel tank and check check those wires and search out the subharness part number

 

[74Nitro]

That makes sense as swapping coil makes same result. Is that sub harness multiple leads or just the one for each coil? Maybe I can swap 1 for 2 as a test. I can't seem to find that part only a sub harness for fuel tank.

Disappointing as the stator replacement was good was hoping for a good March break riding!! Getting a strong 14v now though!

Thank you I'll pull fuel tank and check check those wires and search out the subharness part number

I may be wrong on the sub harness being available separate for your sled.

The apex has a sub harness available, maybe get one of those, I would think the connectors are the same. You'd then have to cut and soder it together.
Or find a used parts harness

 

[74Nitro]

Also read post #20 in this thread.

Your Macgyver special

Was in a company ride with boys from Northern elevatorback in 90's in haliburton, one of the guys driving a indy 600 blew his heater hose below sec clutch, we cut hose and used a 9/16 deep socket and clamped it on either side, then filled his rad with BEER....PISS ...and water to make it to...

ty4stroke.com

 

[Dynomax666]

Thank you for your help while it wasn’t the coil connector I looked over to the injector number 1 and found a cut wire appears just the plastic is that really enough to cause a code? Maybe it was shorting to the nearby metal? I wrapped the individual wire and put a dob of dielectric and then tightly wrapped the whole thing tightly to connector and wire protective cover. Started up code flashed once then went out. As soon as it started I knew it sounded right. I see lots of denso coil connectors out there I’ll look for one for injector.

I may be wrong on the sub harness being available separate for your sled.

The apex has a sub harness available, maybe get one of those, I would think the connectors are the same. You'd then have to cut and soder it together.
Or find a used parts harness

 

[74Nitro]

Thank you for your help while it wasn’t the coil connector I looked over to the injector number 1 and found a cut wire appears just the plastic is that really enough to cause a code? Maybe it was shorting to the nearby metal? I wrapped the individual wire and put a dob of dielectric and then tightly wrapped the whole thing tightly to connector and wire protective cover. Started up code flashed once then went out. As soon as it started I knew it sounded right. I see lots of denso coil connectors out there I’ll look for one for injector.

An injector gives a different code. The wire has to be open or short to activate a code.
Code 33 is coil fail, or circuit open or short to it.
Take it for a good drive.
If fixing an injector wire made your code 33 go away, I can't explain it.

 

[Dynomax666]

Oh m

An injector gives a different code. The wire has to be open or short to activate a code.
Code 33 is coil fail, or circuit open or short to it.
Take it for a good drive.
If fixing an injector wire made your code 33 go away, I can't explain it.

Oh my never thought of that. Man I thought I had when I saw that wire!!! And on #1 side too. This thing is becoming a challenge. Starter last year stator this week now I’ve got a water pump leak! I might be going back to 550 fans! Lol

 

[Dynomax666]

An injector gives a different code. The wire has to be open or short to activate a code.
Code 33 is coil fail, or circuit open or short to it.
Take it for a good drive.
If fixing an injector wire made your code 33 go away, I can't explain it.

you are correct, its the connector... Denso injector and coil connectors are easily bought. I'm ordering some tonight and going to wire them up shortly. I did some zip tie engineering to tighten the plug to the coil and worked like a charm almost 60 miles today. Your tip lead me to it... while looking for loose or corroded plugs, I had a little scraper tool in there, and noticed on coil #1 the female connector was almost twice as wide in gap as number 2... based on the tool i was cleaning with. anyway, i'm ordering plugs, but the phazer ran the longest it has since this code started showing up. I'm ordering two new plugs for the injectors also (fixing the one sliced one for sure).

After my stator, followed by a water pump repair, all the while chasing code 33, I was ready to part this thing out.

I'm also going to wire in a 10ohm resistor in those hand grips to get rid of the yellow flashing and code 81. was thinking of wiring in factory grips but the reviews on them are so horrible I'll leave on it what it came with.

 

[74Nitro]

you are correct, its the connector... Denso injector and coil connectors are easily bought. I'm ordering some tonight and going to wire them up shortly. I did some zip tie engineering to tighten the plug to the coil and worked like a charm almost 60 miles today. Your tip lead me to it... while looking for loose or corroded plugs, I had a little scraper tool in there, and noticed on coil #1 the female connector was almost twice as wide in gap as number 2... based on the tool i was cleaning with. anyway, i'm ordering plugs, but the phazer ran the longest it has since this code started showing up. I'm ordering two new plugs for the injectors also (fixing the one sliced one for sure).

After my stator, followed by a water pump repair, all the while chasing code 33, I was ready to part this thing out.

I'm also going to wire in a 10ohm resistor in those hand grips to get rid of the yellow flashing and code 81. was thinking of wiring in factory grips but the reviews on them are so horrible I'll leave on it what it came with.

That's great.
It's the little vibrations from the engine that cause these to give trouble in time.