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Mono RA Starting Points - VERY good results

RX-Dave

Expert
Joined
Nov 14, 2004
Messages
308
I am amazed at how much this skid responds to changes. Very small changes show in the performance, an attribute to the suspension design and chssis stiffness. I wanted to start this thread to help folks get their setup.

Last weekend I rode this sled for the 1st time, and it was absolute garbage. I was thinking a M10 or Expert to get what I wanted from the sled. This weekend, absolutely amazing.

I am a bigger guy (270lbs with gear) but still like a performance ride. This setup of course is aimed at someone my weight, and my riding style.

1st off, I realized that after turing the rear shock spring up to #7 on the stock C clip position, that it would be way too soft. I removed the rear shock, and moved the ahock adjusting mechanisum to the middle groove on the shock body. This is actually a easier adjustment to make than what you think, and makes a very big change. Setting #7 on groove 1, is about 3 clicks softer than setting #1 on groove 2.

I set the rear shock with setting #2 on the second groove in the shock, with about .200 of wegith transfer showing on the weight transfer adjuster. I then dialed the front shocks from 1 3/4" of thread showing above the adjuster, to 1" of thread showing.

This sled is SO AWESOME now. While my buds on the F7s had me in the hole shot, I was literally killing them in the trail. The cornering speed is much higher on my RX. The suspension was working very good, and only the bigginst of moguls would bottom it. 97% of the time, you felt nothing. At one point, I could not even tell if the sled was coming off the ground or not.
 

I found the same thing....the skid is awesome..bigger guys will have to take the spring to the center grove to get the skid to ride like an m10.....I am in #1 on in the 2nd grove and am going to go up a few more clicks so I can run the RA in the softer settings.
 
is doing this the same as having my dealer setting up the rear suspension for my weight..............with gear im 300 lbs or more. when i rode my sled i only bottomed on harsh bi bumps, other then that i was fine.
 
you want to bottom once in a while or your not using the stroke of the suspension...it just shouldnt bottom harsh....if it does you may want add more spring to try to slow it or you can turn the RA up to use the valving to slow it.
 
Ogre - it is not a big deal to get the spring and collar off. I did my own, but like MrS, I had access to a strut compressor at a car dealership.

Just drop the shock and take it to a local service shop. I would be shocked if they charged ya $5 or $10 to do it.
 
RX-Dave thanks for the info.
I am thining of moving it to the third notch, i am a big guy lol, or would that to to stiff.
 
I moved my c-clip on the sled (didn't remove the skid nor shock).

With the right tools it only takes about 10-15 minutes.

I clamped a bearing spreader lightly around the 7 position adjuster and used a couple of standard spring compressors to hook on to the bearing spreader (single hook) and the spring at the other end (using the double hook side).

Lift the rear of the sled and tighten the spring compressors. Once compressed you have to push the spring towards the front of the sled, exposing the clip. The clip is easy to move with a simple flat head screwdriver.

Remove the tools and your done.

I did take a picture with my wife's new digital camera, but she hasn't installed the download software yet (I'll loose points if I install it...) so I can't post a picture yet.
 
MrSled said:
I found the same thing....the skid is awesome..bigger guys will have to take the spring to the center grove to get the skid to ride like an m10.....I am in #1 on in the 2nd grove and am going to go up a few more clicks so I can run the RA in the softer settings.

RX-1MAN said:
You heavy guys complaining about bottoming with the new skid check this out. At the adjustment end of the monoshock are three grooves around You will probably find the circlip in the middle onethe shock body. . Moving the clip to the groove towards the spring will increase the initial preload. Now you have seven new harder preload settings to play with. In reality, this shock as 21 possible preload positions. You will have to remove all preload on the spring in order to get the circlip off. If you have a spring compressor it can be done on the sled. If not, you will probably have to remove the shock. Your dealer should also be able to make this adjustment for you.

I am not sure to understand.
 
Mr Sled, another question if I may, hum, how much do you weight? For a rider of 195 lbs, what setting would you recommend, specifying the groove because from the previoust post. I am not sure if all skid have been set the same from the factory.
 
the groove is not set in the middle from stock its in the furthest postition or 1st not middle. I go about 250 to 260 with all my gear on. I would set your 7 postion adjuster 1 to 2 click more then the stock setting. Does that help??
 
Yup. I will move the cam to #5 or 6. Pretty confusing since I lowered it to #2 to make it cushier :o| :? Freezing rain today, so i will not be able to test it before some time. Thank's
 
I thought a pic of the clip would shed some light on the subject. The second groove is still just under the collar. Note. Be real carful not to damage the shock body Etc.
 

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This has been very informative, but I never knew this adjustment was available. Am I assuming that we are preloading the spring even more by making this adjustment. I go 215 plus gear, and about another 15 of saddlebag. I was bottoming WAY too easy, trying to ride aggressively. I love the way it carves and everything else but the constant bottoming was annoying the $hit out of me. My settings were full preload, about 5 in from the middle on the compression adjuster. I also found that the adjuster made little difference in bottoming protection, and if it was too far in, I felt alot of the chattery bumps that I wasn't feeling before. I have 1040 miles on my 05 now.
 


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