I have a 07 Vector Mtn. In the flats in 1-2 feet of powder it does fine. Any deeper than that and I am getting walked all over. On an extreme powder day on the flats I need to jump back into a track every once in awhile to get some speed up again to maintain. It won't reach top RPM in the real deep stuff either, probably only getting to about 7500-8500 RPM. Even the smallest hill climbs which shouldn't be a problem give it a hard time. One of my buddies rode it awhile this weekend and thought that I need some more track speed.
The track speed doesn't seem bother me as much as not reaching my top RPM. It seems to have a happy spot, not enough and you are plowing and too much and you are trenching. What can I do to get some more climbing performance and deep powder performance? Or is this just how the Vectors are?
Thanks in advance.
The track speed doesn't seem bother me as much as not reaching my top RPM. It seems to have a happy spot, not enough and you are plowing and too much and you are trenching. What can I do to get some more climbing performance and deep powder performance? Or is this just how the Vectors are?
Thanks in advance.
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Shed some weight ----poor power to weight is the biggest problem.
A light exhaust light drop brackets and lightweight tunnel extension is a good start.
A light frond end ( bark busters) work best -- Skid ? are a bit more expensive mods. Mostly get rid of anything not needed .
A proper set up skid makes a huge difference in powder . Try loosening the front shock pre-load and shorten the limiter strap a bit for a better approach angel. After that Adjust the track as loose as possible just enough to keep it from ratcheting.
I don't like stock Yamaha clutching at all . So clutching is a must --- most guys run Schockwave helixes for adjust-ability, I prefer a roller secondary.
The engine makes good power over a large RPM range but if you can keep it shifting at optimum RPM it feels like a different sled.
This seems like a lot of stuff to do but those sleds are bullet proofed and well worth a little effort to make them work better.
A light exhaust light drop brackets and lightweight tunnel extension is a good start.
A light frond end ( bark busters) work best -- Skid ? are a bit more expensive mods. Mostly get rid of anything not needed .
A proper set up skid makes a huge difference in powder . Try loosening the front shock pre-load and shorten the limiter strap a bit for a better approach angel. After that Adjust the track as loose as possible just enough to keep it from ratcheting.
I don't like stock Yamaha clutching at all . So clutching is a must --- most guys run Schockwave helixes for adjust-ability, I prefer a roller secondary.
The engine makes good power over a large RPM range but if you can keep it shifting at optimum RPM it feels like a different sled.
This seems like a lot of stuff to do but those sleds are bullet proofed and well worth a little effort to make them work better.
Powder Nomad
Veteran
track speed
Not sure what the gearing's like on vector's, but maybe needs to be geared down a little? Buddy of mine got me started on gearing sleds down a while ago, and think it's a great thing. Limits a bit your overall top end, but never really a big deal to me as WFO on flat trails is something which I don't do very often anyway. The benefit then is in the bulk of off-trail riding, you can end up using more of the clutch's range...
Not sure what the gearing's like on vector's, but maybe needs to be geared down a little? Buddy of mine got me started on gearing sleds down a while ago, and think it's a great thing. Limits a bit your overall top end, but never really a big deal to me as WFO on flat trails is something which I don't do very often anyway. The benefit then is in the bulk of off-trail riding, you can end up using more of the clutch's range...
Jabber
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2005
- Messages
- 120
- Location
- Penticton B.C.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder mtn 162
CLUTCHING CLUTCHING CLUTCHING.Toss the Yamaha secondary in the garbage and buy a TEAM secondary. It will wake your machine right up. We have changed secondarys on 6 yamaha 4 strokes now. Best $400 you will spend.
I tightened the limiter straps one hole and tightened the preoad on the front spring to the highest setting. I turned the rear spring pressure down to the lowest setting (I am going to turn it to the middle setting for the next ride, was a little to soft for me). I also took out the sway bar and adjusted the front springs as tight as they would go.
Seems to help keep the sled a little more level and easier to tip over this way.
I am only getting 7800 RPM in 1-2 feet of powder but 8500 on a trail at the same elvation and temperature. I am going to try to get some clutch work done this week.
Seems to help keep the sled a little more level and easier to tip over this way.
I am only getting 7800 RPM in 1-2 feet of powder but 8500 on a trail at the same elvation and temperature. I am going to try to get some clutch work done this week.
freelheeler
Pro
from my experience everyone has a little different opinion concerning clutching. and even i started throwing money at the clutches and really didn't get the performance till is started listening and tweaking. so here's my new role of thumb. i really feel with a few changes you can get the thing running better.
primary
less weight = higher rpms (05 wieghts ground down)
stronger spring= higher rpms ($30)
secondary
helix less angle = higher rpms (shockwave $225)
stronger spring = higher rpms ($30)
increased pre tension = increased backshift (free)
gearing
18th upper 40 bottom w/reverse= ($35)
i throw money at the 05 weights and shockwave in the end i've made them work but looking back i'm not sure it was the best idea. the beauty of the shockwave is once the sled is hitting it's rpms in the steep and deep you can back out the angle and it'll run descent on the trails as well. more and more i'll back out the shockwave for the trail ride to the riding area once i'm there in a couple of minutes i can turn down the shockwave and have the rpms up in the range i need. for trail riding i'm seeing a range in max speed of 63 to 85 plus with just a few turns of the shockwave. i've got my RX1 dialed mostly for off trail riding and could care less about top speed, it just helps it run easier.
the hitch is to dial the primary and gearing so your shockwave isn't turned all the way in and your still not able to get rpms. this happene to me and i'd taken all the weights out of the primary, so i had to grind additional weight off (the 05 weights empty were to heavy) and i regeared. it's a different sled
primary
less weight = higher rpms (05 wieghts ground down)
stronger spring= higher rpms ($30)
secondary
helix less angle = higher rpms (shockwave $225)
stronger spring = higher rpms ($30)
increased pre tension = increased backshift (free)
gearing
18th upper 40 bottom w/reverse= ($35)
i throw money at the 05 weights and shockwave in the end i've made them work but looking back i'm not sure it was the best idea. the beauty of the shockwave is once the sled is hitting it's rpms in the steep and deep you can back out the angle and it'll run descent on the trails as well. more and more i'll back out the shockwave for the trail ride to the riding area once i'm there in a couple of minutes i can turn down the shockwave and have the rpms up in the range i need. for trail riding i'm seeing a range in max speed of 63 to 85 plus with just a few turns of the shockwave. i've got my RX1 dialed mostly for off trail riding and could care less about top speed, it just helps it run easier.
the hitch is to dial the primary and gearing so your shockwave isn't turned all the way in and your still not able to get rpms. this happene to me and i'd taken all the weights out of the primary, so i had to grind additional weight off (the 05 weights empty were to heavy) and i regeared. it's a different sled
So losing weight on the primary will increase RPMs, is it going to affect the trail performance (not that I care because I rarely ride trails)? It revs to 8500 fine on the trail so will it be over revving with less weight?
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Not if you run the right weights ---- Yamaha has great graphs that show the shift forces of the weights I have had very good results with heel clickers some of my friends run heavy hitters with good results.
I have consistently run heal clickers with much less weight all other things the same than stock weights.
This improves back-shift and bottom end response.
Adjustable weights are a must ---- start with a soft spring and dial it in on the primary clutch weights ---- use the secondary for miner adjustments only. ( Never tune a sled on the secondary)
#1 The Primary spring is only to hold the clutch open and adjust engagement ---- do not use it for anything else.
#2 set running RPM with the clutch weights.
#3 Adjust secondary If you have problems with back-shift (spring pre-load) up-shift (Helix) You may need to do minor re Adjustment on the primary but remember it is called the primary for a reason and with a stock motor there is not much need to deviate to far on the secondary.
I have consistently run heal clickers with much less weight all other things the same than stock weights.
This improves back-shift and bottom end response.
Adjustable weights are a must ---- start with a soft spring and dial it in on the primary clutch weights ---- use the secondary for miner adjustments only. ( Never tune a sled on the secondary)
#1 The Primary spring is only to hold the clutch open and adjust engagement ---- do not use it for anything else.
#2 set running RPM with the clutch weights.
#3 Adjust secondary If you have problems with back-shift (spring pre-load) up-shift (Helix) You may need to do minor re Adjustment on the primary but remember it is called the primary for a reason and with a stock motor there is not much need to deviate to far on the secondary.
freelheeler
Pro
i've got a set of heelclicker weights and yellow spring if you're interested send me a PM
Talked to Hartman inc today about his setups. He charges about $300 for a complete setup that he builds for you. For the amount of riding that I do I don't want to waste anytime tinkering trying to figure it out. If I had more time to do some trial and error I would love to do it. I have heard good things about Hartman though.
akvector
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I would not recommend Hartmans set up. I went back to the stock weights with just the alum rivets in them. I still do not hit the rpms I am looking for.ACG said:
This is what I have. Gearing = gear it down I have 20/40 no reverse
Primary GWG stock weights with lighter rivets. I can push 9000 rpms on hard pack. 7500-8000 powder
Secondary 46 helix Hartman sent me a 52/46 light secondary spring silver,
Let me know what you come up with. I have tried to get this thing right from day one.
akvector said:
You are the first negative response I have heard about Hartmans clutch setups. Everyone That I have talked says what he sent them worked awesome. We will have to see. Should be here this week.
Got the kit today and got the helix and spring changed. Found out why the vector was performing like crap, half the spring came off with the helix and the other stayed on the clutch. That was probably causing me problems. can't wait to try out the new setup this weekend.
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
EVen if all is perfect, you need to gear it down. Stock Vector gearing is good for near 100 mph.
You need to go lower. at least 20/40 even 19/40
You need to go lower. at least 20/40 even 19/40
Similar threads
