my clutch is "over shifting"

[ROCKRTX]

Since i bought the center to center and offset tool i move the motor to the right to make it C to C and remove the 2 mm shim beside the secondary to adjust offset.

Everything is OK.

I also change my gearing to 23/40 for a try( did that and the C to C the same day)I try the sled adjust my clutching to 10800 rpm but on a long straight my rpm come down to 10500 rpm!!!

Why is my clutching is over shifting?

 

[Len Todd]

As your secondary is shifting out fully, the RPM is coming down about right where it ought to be with stock parts in the clutches. Figure a way to add more HP and maybe the Rs would stay up there.

However, with your new gear, your seeing 10,800. Personally, I would want that back down a bit. Say 10,500. I sounds like you may want to add a bit of weight to the Primary weights, unless you have the secondary set at 70 degrees twist. Then, I would back the secondary twist off to 60 degrees.

Again, this is assuming you have stock clutches. There are several other things that you could do to optimize the clutches to perform a bit better with the new gear. But, the above should get you close, with stock clutch parts.

 

[ROCKRTX]

Len tod, look in my signature i got ulmer stage 2.

Set-up is

supertip weight: tip=0
mid=0
heel=7 gram

spring primary o-p-o

secondary twist = 90

I am try to get rid of the over shift,maybe if i put the white secondary at 3-3 and add weight to supertip to old the shift???

Ps:still got good speed 106 MPh Gps on soft snow.

 

[Len Todd]

I missed the Stage II set-up. It is hard to catch everything on my Pocket PC. Sorry about that. I have the same hardware setup.

However, I had the Secondary twisted to 70 degrees, per Allen's set-up sheet. That brought the Rs to around 10,500 - 10,800. Actually, I just changed the twist to 60 degrees. But I have not had snow and time to try that yet. I am trying to get the Rs back down to 10,200 at hook-up with a creep up to 10,500 at top end.

Also, I have the Heels set at 3 & 2. Out of the hole, it hits 10,700 - 10,800 and then at hookup it drops back to 10,500. Then it kind of stays right around there, with top-end around 10,700-10,800. If the twist at 60 degrees does not do the trick, I will add the screws back in the tips and go from there.

There may also be some differences also because I am using the Ice Ripper vs. real Picks.

By the way, Allen's set-up had one washer in the tip. I have removed that and the tip's screws. I think it was just a tiny bit too low in the Rs on top-end. So I took off the tip washer. But now it is a little too high for me. So, ... I am taking ten degrees off the secondary twist, first.

 

[Srxspec]

You're not overshifting you simply have too much tip weight for those conditions which is pulling the rpm down. Try running the stock Pink secondary spring @ 6-1.

 

[SledFreak]

secondary twist = 90? I thought it should Be at 80?

 

[ROCKRTX]

You're not overshifting you simply have too much tip weight for those conditions which is pulling the rpm down. Try running the stock Pink secondary spring @ 6-1.

I have 0 tip weight

secondary silver at 90 to bring rpm at 10800 rpm but drop to 10500 on long pull.

you say pink at 6-1...will it old the shift....and i don't want more than 10800 rpm.

 

[Srxspec]

I realize you said you have 0 tip weight in, but the issue you are having is that you still have too much weight in the tip of the weights (you have removed as much as you can). You have two options. The pink secondary spring or a different helix with a lower finish angle.

 

[ROCKRTX]

I will try that. thank

 

[ROCKRTX]

The pink spring at 6-1 work for my 23/40 gearing