What spring is in the primary? Is it broken?
palebluewinder
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Black/green dalton. I’m thinking that might be my problem but I will take the primary cover off this weekend and check for broken spring, inspect the rollers etc. Will be going back to ultimax with 6-2 wrap. DTAY-1 with 1/4” in the tip and 1/2” in the heel. Thinking I’ll start there.
Sorry i didn't catch that in the OP. Higher rate so that would account for some RPM, but not much. I doubt you would break that Dalton spring
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
I've had better luck with offset closer to 58mm. But if you take the time to mach it up like Knapp said, that's the ideal method. Let us know what you find with your inspection.
Here is my 5 cents......
Don't put slugs in the heel, this is asking for trouble. TD tunes hate heel weight and it will slow you down. Screw them all the way to the tip.
You cannot run any power through an 8jp belt. Trying to do so will result in blown belts, belly pans, side panels, antifreeze tanks, belt guards, ruined primary clutch etc. Many have tried to utilize this belt and ALL have failed. The belt may work in your wife's stock sled, but a tuned sled that is raced and/or driven spiritedly, it will not work. Go to the Ultimax or GBOOST!
Your rpms are high due to a glazed belt that is slipping. Go back to the ultimax belt, put Yamaha blue/brown/blue primary spring and start with 77 grams total in each weight. Adjust from there to 9000-9100. Leave the secondary at 6-2 with the b/o.
Don't put slugs in the heel, this is asking for trouble. TD tunes hate heel weight and it will slow you down. Screw them all the way to the tip.
You cannot run any power through an 8jp belt. Trying to do so will result in blown belts, belly pans, side panels, antifreeze tanks, belt guards, ruined primary clutch etc. Many have tried to utilize this belt and ALL have failed. The belt may work in your wife's stock sled, but a tuned sled that is raced and/or driven spiritedly, it will not work. Go to the Ultimax or GBOOST!
Your rpms are high due to a glazed belt that is slipping. Go back to the ultimax belt, put Yamaha blue/brown/blue primary spring and start with 77 grams total in each weight. Adjust from there to 9000-9100. Leave the secondary at 6-2 with the b/o.
palebluewinder
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I appreciate all the help. I will try the 2.5 gram slugs in the tips. I have an Ultimax on the way as well. So the blue/brown/blue Yamaha spring over the Dalton black/green? I’ll have to source one to try this.. but I’ll be using the Dalton spring this weekend anyways.
palebluewinder
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Just had the primary cover off. Spring is intact and looks good. Rollers look good, spider moves in and out with ease. Cleaned everything up and put it back together. Checked offset and still 60.5mm. So stub shaft hasn’t moved. Going to try what Fleecer suggested and see what happens.
Yes Glen that's what i have learned with the TAPP. keep all the weight on the roller which on that clutch acts as tip weight. If by chance you are racing and slipping on the bottom add weight to the arms otherwise stick to roller weight
Fine tune as needed and remember you can add opposing weight to any part of that clutch including the arms
I actually have added titanium bolts to the arms to grab the belt from a dig. But it is minimal weight.
PowderFalcon
Pinnin' it!
Has your secondary been machined so you can get closer to 58mm? I would consider that as a next step as well.
Steve,
I agree with your post, as you run Hurricane tunes, which makes big power bottom end and needs heel weight and/or steeper initial helix angle. TD tunes not so much. In my experience, 270 HP tunes from different venders will require different clutching.
palebluewinder
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I’m reading the later model ones like it around 60mm. If I need to I will. More testing to come.
Mocked up both 2025 LTX LE and the XTX LE and the offset was 59.54mm and 59.22mm respectively.
Simplespeed
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My 2024 was 63.2 and I had 3 mm machined off and deleted the the 2 mm washer.. Iam running secondary right against the snap ring and my finial measurements is 58.2 After taking several heat temperature readings ( long pulls ) the secondary clutch was 94, 95, and 98 . Thats with stock belt running across a big lake… No more belt dust , no glazing using a TP Orange spring, good back shift and going to add more studs to stop spinning.. Yes I checked for clearance and plenty of room to shift all way out with this set up as far as I can tell… this machine is stock
One of the 25's was way out of whack. I had to pull the stub shaft to press the bearing into the housing. I was astonished that the baring was 5mm from being pressed fully into the housing! Even after fixing it and mocking it up with a secondary that was cut I barely had the room to get it lined up! I just can't believe they never addressed this over the years. I'll be running against the snap ring as well.
Simplespeed
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Yes I agree, there is no way this issue should not have been handled for the pride of company if no other reason… On another note I found interesting I have a trail route I like to ride so I rhode it three days in row making various suspension adjustments and spring and shock settings . After 75 miles I always stop and fill up with 93 at same station ( they don’t have 91 ) and first day it took $24.00 dollars, second day it took $21.00 , third day it took $18.00 So as I made adjustments, and as the motor kept getting broke in the fuel mileage is getting better and better.. Sled now has 400 miles on it…I think thats pretty good increase and thats with a substantial amount of back shift on tight trails and price per gallon $4.13
