I can give you a few pics here and you'll get the basics of it for sure.
I use a real soft secondary spring in the secondary with no twist on it to keep belt pressure on when putting the secondary together. I took a old long clutch bolt and welded a nut on it for the pulling of the primary using threaded redi-rod. Used the old Ski Doo clutch compressor to push the primary over as a spring or clutch compressor. You can see my straight edge I use with a couple nuts that are exactly the same height under it with just a bungee to hold the straight edge on to the secondary clutch and spacer nuts. I take all shims out behind the secondary so the secondary can be moved in and out to get the perfect offset. Measure the belt to straight edge front and back till its exactly perfect. See pics for reference. You can cobble together what ever things you have laying around the shop, but the basics are laid out here for you to get idea on how to align on any machine with any clutch or belt being used. Use common sense from these photos. I'm using the dividers in the photo only for reference on belt measurements and for the photo on where to measure. Typically, I use the both the divider and the digital calipers to get the measurement exact for proper offset. Once you jig something up you can play with it to see how moving the secondary in and out changes the alignment for the offset with the belt under tension as its being run. Hope this makes sense, but the photos should lead you to the cobble needed to get the job done, doesn't need to be pretty, just needs to be accurate. Once you get it right. Measure the shaft to outside of secondary to get the spacing you need. On my 23 right now, I sit the secondary right against the snap ring and bolt it tight for perfect clutch alignment with the TAPP. I can't machine anything off the secondary or remove the snap ring or the secondary will hit the aluminum frame hard on full shift. It just ever so slightly rubs it as it is now with the snap ring in place. The center to center is longer on my 23 vs my old 17 so the movable in the secondary moves further as it goes into a higher OD than the 17 did. This is why I have ended up with 1.5 mm more offset on my 23 than the 17 was with the same setup on it.
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