My take on the sidewinder primary clutch

Nospro, How do you ride with one hand under the hood holding the camera, just kidding.
the videos present great insight, being a seasonal rider its an eye opener to me.

Thanks Lou,

This camera that I use is a 6mm camera lighted with LED's and is fed to my spare phone I keep in a pouch. The camera cable are very cheap and can be found all over. Just type in camera for samsung.

RX-1 came with geared down & cushioned clutch output shaft too. Big difference as to how hard on clutches and belts that was. Not the clutch itself.

Three cylinder power pulses from the four-stroke hammers them harder plain and simple. Doo's known that on the 1200 for years.

True


Terry,

First off excellent video. I think this type of video footage can tell us a TON about what is going on with our belts and belt life. I find the one where you are trail riding so interesting, and the lack of tension and slap the belt seems to go thru.

Is there any way you can attach the cam so it is straight on? So its directly looking at the belt from topside somehow, just to see how straight it all runs under load?

As for the belt coming over the top.....I 100% agree with you, that looks like what happened, However I feel that since the belt is a certain length, and in the mockup the belt is BOTTOMED OUT in secondary, so it cannot go any higher in primary, Therefor it could not climb over top AND remain in one piece. Only way that belt can come out and overtop would be to massively stretch, since the secondary is holding it there bottomed out.

So I believe when your belt came out, over top and did what it did....It MUST have let go enough or somehow stretched that much to allow it to climb out.

I would love to see more video like this, I think its a telltale sign of whats actually happening under there. I hate to say it as Ive always loved the torsional design. But it sure seems that the compression setup is a more consistent setup when tuning, I know on the 1200 4tec many of us went from torsional back to compression with great success. Its easy on the DOO as the OD of their springs are same. I believe that is nearly impossible with this Helix YAM has, as its such a short pocket, and there are no compression springs that are even close to this size and fitment.

Has anyone tried a diff secondary? It makes me wonder if this type of roller with torsional can keep up , after watching your video.

Dan

Thanks Dan...Hopefully everyone likes the videos and sees what a belt goes thru.

I will get more videos and move my duct tape and plastic zip ties so it's straight on. Camera is round so I don't see which way is up until I turn on my phone.

By the way, these are videos of my NA Viper which has the button secondary on it. These vids were just to show what happens to a belt under load. But I will get more vids coming from the winder now.
 
Thanks Lou,

This camera that I use is a 6mm camera lighted with LED's and is fed to my spare phone I keep in a pouch. The camera cable are very cheap and can be found all over. Just type in camera for samsung.



True




Thanks Dan...Hopefully everyone likes the videos and sees what a belt goes thru.

I will get more videos and move my duct tape and plastic zip ties so it's straight on. Camera is round so I don't see which way is up until I turn on my phone.

By the way, these are videos of my NA Viper which has the button secondary on it. These vids were just to show what happens to a belt under load. But I will get more vids coming from the winder now.
Thanks Terry.....definitely interested in seeing video of our winders under load.

Great work
Dan
 
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Not yet. I'm having zero problems in over 1500 miles now on Yamaha clutch, rollers fine, original belt. Its noisy just like the previous 3 cylinder vectors and nytros before it were.

Heading out today to test new tune versions and clutching stuff again. If I have time I may give it a go.

My only concern is my old turbo 1200 Doo just blew a PB80 spring cup last week! Doesn't make one want to put it on really bad.[/QUOTE]


I never bought into the PB80 with my 1200 because even though they were quiet there were way too many reports of spring cup and other catastrophic failures. Maybe that's why they kept redesigning the spring cup?
 
If you let your sled idle alot then most all belts will start to groove it. No reason for these sleds to be idling long.

You can use emery cloth to smooth out sheaves at idle if you have deeper grooves.

Or if you ride at a fairly constant speed like 50-60 mph. The original owner of my Attak did just that and I had a machinist at work spin them on the lathe.
 
Something not mentioned is what might be happening to the clutch alignment under load. Given the tremendous torque that this motor makes, some twisting movement between the primary and secondary under load could cause a belt to run up against the edge of a sheave and then cause the belt to walk off the primary or the secondary. It would be almost impossible to check the degree to which clutch alignment is affected under full load, but it emphasizes the importance of rigidity in a chassis, especially as it pertains to the rigidity between the primary and the secondary. How still do the motor mounts hold the motor? How still does the jackshaft remain under load? As the primary and secondary are independent of one another, the rigidity of the chassis is crucial to maintaining clutch alignment. You can't easily observe what's happening to the clutch alignment in actual conditions (when there's a real-world load at the track). I'm not saying anyone here is wrong ... just that clutch design might not be the only cause.

Cat had problems blowing belts on their former 1100 turbo shortly before the new Winder motor replaced it. I was told by one of the Yamaha guys that visits the TRF factory it was chassis twist at the time and Yamaha worked with them to straighten the issue out.
 
Be warned the 8DN belt is very hard and can damage your primary.

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

Sort of true. Sort of not.
I have the slightest groove in my Apex clutch at 20,000 miles on original clutch. It takes a straight edge to even know it exists.
So yes it can damage primary. But i'm willing to put a new clutch on every 25,000 miles if it does....
 


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