rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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No need to as long as the engine was not without oil for any amount of time. Watch inside the oiltank on first startup to make sure you have circulation, you will now if you have as oil is pumping pretty fast, if you have no movement you will need to prime the oil pump. Let me know if that's the case and I'll walk you thru it.
jamesc
Pro
why would you have to prime a dry sump system? the pressure pump takes suction on the bottom of the tank and is gravity fed. the scavange pumps then pump the oil in the pan back to the tank. i'm assuming it's like the vector which has a chain driven three stage dry sump.
rxrider
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You will have to prime the pump if it has gone dry. Easiest way is to start the engine and look for circulation, if there is circulation no need for priming, no circulation you will have to prime it.
To prime it, block all vent hoses and the oil return hose, blow pressure into the oil tank and crank the engine, now oil is forced into the oil pump. Start the engine and look for circulation in the oil tank. Repeat until you have circulation.
Do not idle the engine without oil pressure for more than 10-20 seconds at the time.
To prime it, block all vent hoses and the oil return hose, blow pressure into the oil tank and crank the engine, now oil is forced into the oil pump. Start the engine and look for circulation in the oil tank. Repeat until you have circulation.
Do not idle the engine without oil pressure for more than 10-20 seconds at the time.
rxrider
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If the pump is dry (full of air) it will not suck, and the flow to the pump is restricked by an air lock. Pressurizing the oil tank will force the air lock past the pump and prime it with oil.
kviper
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I did two Yam-Charger installs and did just what rxrider said with no problem's. Just fill the tank, Start it up and watch in the tank with a flash light for circulation. It circulated almost instantly. I have read about the air lock situation with rebuilds where the pump was dry so i made sure it was circulating just to be safe.
mr.pitstop
Expert
I'll watch for the circulation on my first start up. I had remembered hearing of people priming the oil pump during engine rebuilds, thats why I ask. Glad I did though or I wouldn't have known to open the tank and look for circulation on the first start up.
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OH.. BTW.. We got a foot of fresh snow last night, I'll be out plowing for a little while then back to working on the sled..
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OH.. BTW.. We got a foot of fresh snow last night, I'll be out plowing for a little while then back to working on the sled..
rxrider
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If you rebuild an engine you have to prime the oil pump prior to startup.
If it was air locked wouldn't it be better for the engine, once pressurized, to pull the fuel pump relay and just crank the motor over with the starter until it primed?
mr.pitstop
Expert
Is it possible to adjust the charge tube so these two rubber hoses don't have such a bulge on the inside. You can see in these pics, I think its simply because they are joined on a curve so the inside will naturally have this bulge but wondering if others have managed to install these rubber hoses so they don't bulge like this on the inside, I tried and was unsuccessful.
kviper
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Mine is not like that, Are you sure you have the tube wright. Try flipping it end for end. If i remember correctly the sharper bend in the tube goes to the blower. Yes the blower housing can be rotated to align.
welterracer
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I like the Half Baked decals on the tunnel.. Super nice touch 
mr.pitstop
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welterracer said:I like the Half Baked decals on the tunnel.. Super nice touch
The decal compliments the exceptional powder coat on the rear skid. I got it done in the dormant red when it was still available, looks great and much stronger, I'll put her through her paces this season for sure...
kviper, I took the tube off and I believe I have it on right, I have the sharper bend to the charger like you said and it looks correct. I loosened the worm clamp on the charger and rotated it slightly to better align the openings between the charger and plennum box, I'm gunna see if I can get it together without the bulging in the hoses now...
kviper
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You should be able to smooth it out by moving the housing. Good luck!
mr.pitstop
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Well I did everything I can think of go get those bulges out with no luck. I moved the housing in both directions, adsjusted the clamps all over the place, I flipped the charge tube and tried it, for some reason I still seam to have a bulge on the inside of both curves, anyone got any other ideas??
bobber
Extreme
Got my kit yesterday so hopefully this weekend I'll have time to make an attempt to install.
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