My Yamcharger install thread

[FrostyNutz]

Great writeup and pics ! I look forward to reading your review .

 

[MrSled]

Awesome writeup... Tom, this should be a sticky...

This should be in the Tech pages in a word doc. Then it wont get lost. As well as Yamacharger should pay for so much free press.

Not really intended to be a "how to" or an advertisement for g force, just a series of pics with descriptions for others to see. I've had fun installing this charger system, I'll be finishing it up and installing the clutch kit today or tomorrow and I'll post up some more pics and info as I go. cheers....

Well you did a great job and it was a really nice write up

 

[mr.pitstop]

Awesome writeup... Tom, this should be a sticky...

This should be in the Tech pages in a word doc. Then it wont get lost. As well as Yamacharger should pay for so much free press.

Not really intended to be a "how to" or an advertisement for g force, just a series of pics with descriptions for others to see. I've had fun installing this charger system, I'll be finishing it up and installing the clutch kit today or tomorrow and I'll post up some more pics and info as I go. cheers....

Well you did a great job and it was a really nice write up

Thanks, Appreciated.


I started to put the parking break bracket and guard in place today but didn't get too far and had to go eat turkey. A couple things Im a little concerned about, the bolts that hold the parking brake caliper to the bracket stick out a little bit on the back of the bracket and look like they could rub on the chain case. Also the plastic guard does not fit down between the charger and the chain case or between the brake disc and the charger very well. Its very tight and the plastic guard and the metal guard do not fit together very well. It all goes together but its kinda a pain to get it all to fit. cheers all....

 

[kviper]

It is a pain but the plastic guard does fit between the chain case and blower housing. I bolted the aluminum shield at an angle twords the front of the sled and bent the slot up a bit so the tab goes down in the slot better and once you get the tab started just reach up in back of the aluminum shield with a needle nose and pull down as you push the top down in to the spacer on the long bolt, Not bad once you have every thing tweaked. I would not worry about the caliper bolt sticking through. kviper

 

[mr.pitstop]

It is a pain but the plastic guard does fit between the chain case and blower housing. I bolted the aluminum shield at an angle twords the front of the sled and bent the slot up a bit so the tab goes down in the slot better and once you get the tab started just reach up in back of the aluminum shield with a needle nose and pull down as you push the top down in to the spacer on the long bolt, Not bad once you have every thing tweaked. I would not worry about the caliper bolt sticking through. kviper

Sounds like what I had to do. I bent the aluminum shield at an angle twords the front of the sled also and got the plastic tab down through it, I managed to get it installed but its very tight between the charger and the chain case.

My main worry is about the little tiny bit of bolt that is sticking through the back of the parking brake relocator bracket, It is so tight to the chain case that any amount of bolt sticking through seams like it will wear into the soft magnesium chain case cover. Anyone else see an issue with this, I was thinking of putting an extra washer on the head of the bolt to keep the bolts from sticking through the bracket.

I also don't care for the parking brake cable running across in front of the brake disc, looks like if it were to be pushed into the brake disc for any reason it could get caught up in the fins on the disc. I think I'll zip tie it to the plastic gaurd so it can't move any closer to the disc.

Now just to install the clutch kit and upload the rest of the pics..

 

[Reverse]

This thread is a great idea; wish I would have had this before I installed mine last year. You get a box with a bunch of stuff in it and some instructions that I found not half bad but not as good as the pictures and accompanying questions, answers and commentary in this thread. Wish there was more of it. All of the things you guys are saying I come across last year. Sure would have been nice to have some insight instead of spending alot of time figuring what's best. I know that ty4stroke has a tech section but this is a more basic hands on way by guys who may not be mechanics but have some mechanical ability which seems easier to relate to; for me anyway.

 

[cat hunter]

Has anyone bought the clutch kit with the Yamacharger and is it worth the exta coin???

 

[mr.pitstop]

Has anyone bought the clutch kit with the Yamacharger and is it worth the exta coin???

I didn't because it is $300 for just a set of weights. I got an entire kit with a new primary spring, new helix, and adjustable weights for $325.

 

[kviper]

In my opinion based on the testing we did at Simon's CPR last season i would either use your stock weight's or if you are going to spend the extra cash go with a CPR clutch kit. Then you will get the 20 hp of the kit and the additional track HP of a good clutch kit. I don't remember the exact track hp gain from the G-Force weight's to CPR's kit but it was substantial. Before i would spend the money on just there weight's i would either hunt down heavier rivet's or just wire weld a spot on the tip of the stock weight's and equalize them with a gram scale and grind some off till you get the WOT shift RPM you want, 10,700 to 10,800 (not over 10,800 with stock ignition). Mr-Pitstop i guess i did not notice the P break bolt's sticking through that far, Mine have one washer on them as per the original instruction's. The original kit's last season had a lot of changes wright away and the instruction's did not get changed so it was difficult. I was lucky in that i was talking to G-Force on a regular basis and Danny kept me up to date.

 

[mr.pitstop]

How did you guys end up orienting your starter relay?? I ended up putting mine on the bracket upside down, it seamed to reach better that way and the wires seamed to lay in place better, I bent the bracket up so the starter relay is right over top of the starter and installed it on the bracket upside down (You can see it in a couple of my pics), I can't see where this would cause a problem, anyone else??

 

[bobber]

How did you guys end up orienting your starter relay?? I ended up putting mine on the bracket upside down, it seamed to reach better that way and the wires seamed to lay in place better, I bent the bracket up so the starter relay is right over top of the starter and installed it on the bracket upside down (You can see it in a couple of my pics), I can't see where this would cause a problem, anyone else??

Having the relay upside down could cause the starter to engage when traveling over rough terrain. Most relays are a magnetic switch using a spring to hold a weighted coil open, coil on bottom with spring keeping it down until energized. When energized the coil is pulled up, against the spring, to engage the starter by closing the constantly energized starter contacts, then the spring pushes, and holds, the coil back down to keep the contacts open when power to the coil is removed. If upside down the coil is on top with the energized starter contacts underneath so when going over bumps the coil may use its weight against the spring to momentarily engage the starter.
At my place of work a few years ago we had a few JLG's arrive via tractor trailer with burnt out starters.... turned out the starter relays were installed upside down from the manufacture and during road travel where engaging the starters.

Once again kudo's for this great write up. Wish I had my kit so I could chime in on this thread with the install of it and the other components (Power Commander, Ignition module and Ulmers recommended clutch kit).

 

[rxrider]

You will find the link to your thread in the Turbo and SC section, look in the stickies for turbo/sc.
Great writeup.

rxrider
TY Management Team

 

[mr.pitstop]

How did you guys end up orienting your starter relay?? I ended up putting mine on the bracket upside down, it seamed to reach better that way and the wires seamed to lay in place better, I bent the bracket up so the starter relay is right over top of the starter and installed it on the bracket upside down (You can see it in a couple of my pics), I can't see where this would cause a problem, anyone else??

Having the relay upside down could cause the starter to engage when traveling over rough terrain. Most relays are a magnetic switch using a spring to hold a weighted coil open, coil on bottom with spring keeping it down until energized. When energized the coil is pulled up, against the spring, to engage the starter by closing the constantly energized starter contacts, then the spring pushes, and holds, the coil back down to keep the contacts open when power to the coil is removed. If upside down the coil is on top with the energized starter contacts underneath so when going over bumps the coil may use its weight against the spring to momentarily engage the starter.
At my place of work a few years ago we had a few JLG's arrive via tractor trailer with burnt out starters.... turned out the starter relays were installed upside down from the manufacture and during road travel where engaging the starters.

Once again kudo's for this great write up. Wish I had my kit so I could chime in on this thread with the install of it and the other components (Power Commander, Ignition module and Ulmers recommended clutch kit).

Thanks for the great info. I didn't realize the workings of a relay. I will be opening it back up tomorrow to turn the relay right side up. I'll have to look at my options to get the wires to lay down where I want them to.


EDIT: I was looking over the directions from G force and they changed the picture of the battery/wiring since they recently changed the battery orientation in the directions. I can see now that they have the relay bracket bolted on the other battery box bolt (closer to the alternator cover) and they have the bracket stretched out horizontally so the relay is actually on its side in their directions. I have contacted them to see if they recommend I orient it upright or on its side like they have it. I'll update everyone when I find out, like I said earlier, I don't want any mid season failures so I'm addressing every single thing that I think could cause a trail side failure now, and I hope to have a trouble free season...


I POSTED A BUNCH MORE PICS ON THE FIRST PAGE OR THE PARKING BRAKE AND BRAKE SHIELD INSTALL, WILL BE DOING SOME MORE FINISHING TOUCHES TOMORROW.

 

[kviper]

mr.pitstop i noticed you have the crank case breather hose between the steering shaft and the deltabox as it says in the instruction's, I thought the clip hooked in the oring and the oring slids on to the breather hose and clips to the bottom of the deltabox. I did not do mine that way because it still rubs on the steering shaft so i routed it under the shaft and other hoses where it did not touch anything else. I only have the update kit so i didn't have the need for the oring in the mount for the backing plate to the inspection hole, Not sure on the oring & clip but i don't think it will make any diff either way i just didn't like it rubbing and it seemed to fit real nice going under.

 

[mr.pitstop]

mr.pitstop i noticed you have the crank case breather hose between the steering shaft and the deltabox as it says in the instruction's, I thought the clip hooked in the oring and the oring slids on to the breather hose and clips to the bottom of the deltabox. I did not do mine that way because it still rubs on the steering shaft so i routed it under the shaft and other hoses where it did not touch anything else. I only have the update kit so i didn't have the need for the oring in the mount for the backing plate to the inspection hole, Not sure on the oring & clip but i don't think it will make any diff either way i just didn't like it rubbing and it seemed to fit real nice going under.

That makes sense. I put that clip on the delta box but never found out a way to fasten it to the hose. Makes sense that the O ring would slip over the hose and the clip clips to the O ring and the deltabox. I'll look the system over tomorrow and see if it looks like it would be better to run the hose under the steering shaft or between it and the deltabox with the clip and O ring on. Probably either would be fine but I want to make sure I don't have any mid-season failures so I want everything to be setup right from the start... I'll be flipping my starter relay right side up tomorrow to so I'll be working on it for a while.

Since I had to empty the oil tank and lines and remove it from the sled and emptied the motor of all its oil. Do I need to do any sort of priming or bleeding of the system or just refill and run it???