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My Yamcharger install thread

Fantastic step by step details. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
 

:) thanks for the info bobber :)
 
I put my first 100 miles on the yamcharged apex today and got to take it out on the lake for a couple passes.. Man she pulls hard. I had no problem seeing 118 on the speedo in less than ideal conditions and only about 1/4 mile. I think I need to remove about 1/10 gram from my weights. Im seeing about 10,200 and I should get it up around 10,800-11,000 then she'll really pull.....
 
Not over 10,800 unless you have an ignition box, The stock ignition starts to pull timing at 10,800. I pulled 114 (speedo) this morning in not very good cond's (strong 1/4 Mi) and 126 the end of last season on very hard snow, Almost ice but soft enough to get hooked up good. At the same location and same distance.
 
I have 2.0 grams added to each weight right now. Im pulling about 10,200-10,300 at WOT, It jumps to about 10,800 off the line then immediately falls to about 9,500-9,700 and climbs back up to 10,300 or so. I was thinking of putting in the screws that weigh 1.9 grams. That would only take 1/10 of a gram off each weight and shouldn't add too many R's Id like to get it to where it jumps to about 10,800-11,00 and then immediately falls back to 10,000 or so (for the reason kviper said) and then climb to 10,500-10,700 at WOT

Does that sound like my best bet for optimal power??? that will keep me under 10,800 accept right off the line but that only stays up for about a second and falls right back to below 10,800...


Im also paying close attention to the man who sold me this kit as he knows what it does and should do.. Just looking for insight from members...

ideas/thoughts on this anyone??? thanks...
 
A tenth of a gram will only gain you a few rpm (less than 20 or 30). General rule of thumb is that 1 gram = 150 to 200 rpm. What weights are you using? Is it possible to reposition weight from the tip more towards the heel of the weight?
 
Like Allen suggest you need to move weight from the tip to the heel to get rid of the overrev off the line and to keep higher shift rpms. Start moving a gram from tip to heel (inner hole close to the pin).
Off the line 9800-10000 rmps are perfect then it should go to shift rpms and stay there 10500-10700 rpms.
 
charger

i have allen's super tips in per his spec for yamacharger stabs at 10200 and pulls to 10500 i will need to remove washer from tip i think,
i also have stock weights at 83.5 stock secondary stock clutching and
it stabs at 10200 and climbs up to 10700 and stays there, both set-ups
do not fall off. also next week i will try d-flys.
 
Srxspec said:
A tenth of a gram will only gain you a few rpm (less than 20 or 30). General rule of thumb is that 1 gram = 150 to 200 rpm. What weights are you using? Is it possible to reposition weight from the tip more towards the heel of the weight?

I have Dalton adjustable weights. I have the weight pin all the way in to the tip of the weight right now, I could move them back out twords the base of the weight?? maybe that would help keep the Rs lower off the line??
 
A friend of mine ran 132mph at a radar run with Yamahacharger last spring on his '10 Apex. He has the 2011 for this year, but he wants to ride without the charger for a bit this winter before he bolts another one on. He seems to like it alot.
 
The over rev you are seeing is track spin and when you hook your rev's are pulling way down out of the power because your driven is not back shifting quick enough. Do you have the stock driven tune in it? As you are now if you add more weight in the heel or earlier part of the shift curve to hold the over rev down you will then have more over shift ( This is the big dip in RPM when it hooks up). It sounds like you need a better driven clutch tune, ie shallower initial cam angle and or a better driven spring. It sound's like you need a driven set up to go with those weight's so it can recover from the over shift, Then you may be able to load the weight's to control the over rev.
 
I have the trail terminator kit, which by all accounts is a good kit. It comes with the dalton adjustable weights, a new primary sprin, and new helix. I think I just need to get the kit dialed in. I might just need to take an afternoon and run it around on the lake and make some small adjustments until I get it dialed in. I know I don't want to overrev and have the motor start pulling back timing and loose power, I just want to stay in the meat of the powerband, around 10,500 or so..
 
mr.pitstop said:
I have the trail terminator kit, which by all accounts is a good kit. It comes with the dalton adjustable weights, a new primary sprin, and new helix. I think I just need to get the kit dialed in. I might just need to take an afternoon and run it around on the lake and make some small adjustments until I get it dialed in. I know I don't want to overrev and have the motor start pulling back timing and loose power, I just want to stay in the meat of the powerband, around 10,500 or so..

I thought that clutch kit was for a stock Apex?
 
SledFreak said:
mr.pitstop said:
I have the trail terminator kit, which by all accounts is a good kit. It comes with the dalton adjustable weights, a new primary sprin, and new helix. I think I just need to get the kit dialed in. I might just need to take an afternoon and run it around on the lake and make some small adjustments until I get it dialed in. I know I don't want to overrev and have the motor start pulling back timing and loose power, I just want to stay in the meat of the powerband, around 10,500 or so..

I thought that clutch kit was for a stock Apex?

Its adjustable, actually the weights come with alot more weight than even this motor with the charger can pull. Its supposed to be for any apex...
 
Belt slippage on take off caused by too little weight at the pin will do the exactly same thing :)
 


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