New 06 Apex owner

[72Gran]

I believe if you keep your engine compartment clean and spray the entire compartment before storage with silicone spray, like empty a can and spray everything, belt, clutches, wiring, connectors, hoses and all aluminum. This will protect the components from moisture during the most critical time, I use 3 in 1 silicone spray.

 

[Snowman11]

Don't let some of the stuff on here scare you. There is a lot of good info on this site but also a lot of gripes. I had a 08 apex LTX and after 50,000 kms I only ever had one failure and that was the crankshaft position sensor at 40,000kms.
The Mono skid suspension is excellent just make sure you set the shock up for your rider weight.
No I never cracked the dreaded W arm
No I never had an oil tank leak
No I never broke an exhaust header, changed donuts every 5k with oil, no issues
No I did not have slider issues, 10k per set, run scratchers when needed and installed a temp guage to keep an eye on it
No I did not have a fuel pump relay failure, carried a spare in my pocket though, still got it
No I never changed the front end bushings, they were loose from day one and never got worse
Yes the idler wheels without removeable bearings sucked but the went 25k without a failure
No I never rebuilt the clutches, cleaned every 2500k and changed the secondary buttons at 35k
No I never rebuilt the chaincase just changed oil every engine oil change and used synthetic
Yes the sled darted, shimmed the skis 1/4" and installed stud boy deuce bars, problem solved
No I did not care how off the speedo was as long as I never got passed by another brand, and never did
Yes the RA was a BAD idea, no biggy just set the shock and drive the damn thing
Yes hand warmers suck, just buy good mitts, they don't look cool but then you aren't cold
No never had the dreaded ground block issue
Yes there is a drone but who drives 35 anyways
Yes the belts can last 10k plus, my current xtx has 19k on the factory belt and it's still in tolerance, just towed a Nytro 25kms at 70kph with no issue, no overheating and no belt wear, Nytro was on losing end if a tree

Just my 2 cents, I ride only on trails, but I ride whether the trail is good or bad and I don't drive like an old lady

That's good to hear in all the BS complaining that goes on in here , front scratchers ? Cable or spring ? Any recommendations on a temp gauge

 

[72Gran]

Kimpex spring scratchers that attach under the running board below the foot pocket. I like these cause they spray directly on the heat exchangers and also fill the suspension with snow. The springs are super strong and scratch just about anything, only thing you can't back up. They last forever. Royal Distributing in Canada stock them. I installed a mechanical water temp guage and made a mount for the handle bars. I made my own set up for the sending unit but you can buy them. Install it in the hose just below the thermostat, I think it's a 3/4 inch hose.

 

[Snowman11]

I can't believe that they don't make these with a temp gauge .. dumb .. and spring scratchers ? Can I flip them if I wanna back up ,?

 

[Snowman11]

I believe if you keep your engine compartment clean and spray the entire compartment before storage with silicone spray, like empty a can and spray everything, belt, clutches, wiring, connectors, hoses and all aluminum. This will protect the components from moisture during the most critical time, I use 3 in 1 silicone spray.

I don't know how I feel about spraying silicone on my belt and clutches...but I agree keeping the moisture out of everything else

 

[72Gran]

BRP make reversible spring scratchers for the Summit, I always wondered if they could be adapted.

The silicone spray will not hurt the belt or clutches, I have close to 100k on these types of sleds and many other two strokes, never had an issue. By the time winter rolls around the silicone spray has mostly evaporated. It's not oily like some penetrating oils.

 

[Snowman11]

I've never used the 3n1 stuff , I'll check it out , I've always used wd40 on my skid ,skis anywhere I think Ice would build , undercarrage plastic ,and on the motor bay during storage , I'm thinking change my coolant see if it's a true 50/50 mix and add rear exchanger keep it running cool .. I can only imagine how half these guys store these machines , rode hard put way wet... outside..no wonder they are full of sensor and electrcal gremlins , any info on the IAC.? needed to be cleaned perodicly? Co adjustments? Unresolved idling/ starting issues from like 30 diffeent people with replacing every sensor known to man with zero change

 

[actionjack]

I spring ordered an 06 Apex Gt which I sunk and sold to Insurance Co. I still own an 07 Attak GT which was my baby until I got my SideWinder. The tongue in cheek list is real and doesn’t include a few (steering blocks and 06 chaincase gasket) and some do not apply to all models. If you have a GT you don’t have the RA cable - your shock cable will break until you zip tie it like crazy.

Still a great sled and all of the knowledge you could need is here on TY.

Not everyone breaks the W arm. Mine was beefed up and never broken. I had that done primarily because it rusted all to hell. I still have Ti pipes because I changed the donuts. The pipes crack when the donuts wear enough to not be tight. I have just been through the leaking oil tank. NEVER had a clutch problem but engagement is high - makes me appreciate the Winder. Don’t need a rear exchanger if you change the factory coolant but it certainly helps. As with a lot of things call Barn of Parts to see what he offers for takeoff or a kit he makes. For cold start get the updated relay. Have started both my Apexes in -40°.

Enjoy your new ride.

 

[stevieu1]

I love in SYRACUSE. If you live in upstate then you probably ride tug or OF. Thats where I ride I've put over 13000 on my 06. My original y pipes were shot at 5000 miles I've replaced the donuts, switched to copper and they haven't worn a bit in 6000 mi. Never had a problem with the susp arms. I sand and repaint every few years as needed. I have barn of parts progressive rate spring and I weigh 240lbs. It works great. At 10000 miles I replaced all four flex pipes. I reuses the copper donuts. No wear. I replaced the track and stretched it out to a 136". Wow! Cost me a grand but man what a difference . I also upgraded to the WRP seat. Very important upgrade for me. Raised the seating position and made it way more comfortable . I'm in the middle of replacing the front heat x at the moment. My fault for not recovering a lost bolt. It got wedged between the motor and cooler and wore a hole over 2 seasons. This is no bullshit. It's been a lot of work and maintenance but it is hands down the most fun sled I've ever owned. Ive been riding since the 70s. Its all worth it. Learn to do it yourself. You'll spend a fortune at the dealer. Good luck with a bad #*$&@ sled. Camp 2 rd Osceola N.Y. 2 weeks ago.

 

[stevieu1]

Oh yeah, I never needed scratchers and i ride in questionable conditions. Make sure your coolant is 50/50. If the light comes on, I pull over and pile snow on each running board and go. The light goes right out. That happens rarely. I replaced my oil tank with a custom one with a lifetime guarantee.

 

[Snowman11]

Wow awesome info guys , really , it's good to hear not all these machines are such junk as people say , I usually do all my own work unless it's computer crap , I have no diagnosis tools for that , I'll def check my coolant and prolly tons of upgrades over the summer ... I've only got maybe a few weeks left in tughill and OF.. going onto highmarket/Turin this weekend.. for u upstate NY guys , all great info much appreciated , love to hear about these sleds

 

[Snowman11]

Actionjack , what relay upgrade are u referring to ?

 

[thor452]

yes there are a lot of maintenance on these sleds. and plenty of "factory flaws" but they are also rock solid. remember people are putting on 20,000 miles plus with the bullet proof 4 stroke motor you end up in uncharted territory for sleds. 2 strokes only need everything to last 10-15k and the motor is shot. The good news is this site is awesome the people here will help you with anything that comes up and we have already found the answers to pretty much everything that can go wrong with that sled. 12 years ago that sled was new and all the top guys on here had one and did everything imaginable to it. Also don't lose sight of the fact that people come here and post because they have a problem there are many many many people that have had nothing but good luck. I had an 07 and our group that I take care of had 3 07's and one 06. only one of us broke a W arm and that was from an ice heave. we ride as hard as anyone and they stood up just fine. at about 10000 we all went to oilite bushings in the front end. as far as slide wear they wear very fast to about 11-12mm and sit there for a very long time one guy in our group went 4700 miles on the factory slides. on the hand warmers either spend a few bucks and let Rockmeister hook you up with Yamaheaters awesome product or if you still have the 06 bars and you can tell because the hooks on the ends will be bolted on you can put a wire harness for a 2007 and newer and the hand warmers will be so toasty you wont go over half power with them. definitely have a visual look at the exhaust donuts its at that critical time for wear right now and when it starts backfiring many times its too late. If it don't have copper donuts in it get them in there now Y pipes are expensive donuts are cheap and the copper fixes them possibly forever. make sure the wire in your skid going to the shock is zip-tied down good and you will be fine there we never broke a wire in a combined 56,000 miles on our 4. make sure you have dual carbides at a min but snowtrackers are the best thing you can do for the front end.as long as you have 50/50 coolant you don't need a rear heat exchanger or scratchers on this sled we never did we only had overheat lights come on with straight glycol from the factory. you don't need a temp gauge unless you want one it monitors temp and the yellow caution light will come on if its getting to warm and the red one comes on and shuts the machine off if it gets to hot but to each their own on that. as far as the wheels when they go they just pop off and you will notice they are gone next time you look you can replace them as they fail with the newer ones that have serviceable bearings truth be told I never changed a bearing on a boogie wheel yet if they go bad I replace the whole wheel and once I had them all upgraded they never went out again.

If I had to start over with an 06-10 apex I would #1 put snow tracker aggressive carbides on it #2 change the donuts to copper ones #3 yamaheaters #4 put a riser on it and a WRP seat # 5 have shock and spring re-valve and set to my weight#6 check coolant and adjust to 50/50 #1.2 HID lights . from there it is personal preference.

Bottom line it is a sled it will need maintenance. it will cost money to keep it going but if you have the addiction like most of us here you are on the right brand and perfect site.

 

[actionjack]

Solid state fuel pump relay.

These sleds came with mechanical relays which are prone to freezing after condensation or washing the sled (mine froze on a cold night after I washed my sled for a trip ). When the fuel pump relay freezes your sled will not start as ice is literally blocking the contact. You can resolve this easily by warming the relay, often without removing it from the sled. Yamaha released a solid state relay to replace the fuel pump relay. The updated relay is red. I keep a spare in my jacket. It’s been there for 8 years as we have 7 Apexes in our riding group.

Don’t know the part number off hand.

 

[stevieu1]

I will be there both days (tug hill) We'll be riding up from empyville (near camden).