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"New" sled, first Sidewinder

Have blown two belts in 4000 miles. Stock belts. Both times I could feel them about to go so I cut throttle but there was still shrapnel everywhere. The BOP guard is cheap insurance as far as I am concerned. Plus you might be done riding for the year if it took out a big chunk of lower pan. I don't remember if I had to take off the shock or not to install the guard. There are some holes to drill. It wasn't a big job - I do remember that. Also put on center shock spring from Cannondale. That has been a good thing. On the RTX limiter strap adjustment and spring tension on that center shock are crucial for fun factor. It took some time to find the sweet spot. One thing learned - you want to pull the front end down if you want max top end. With limiter strap out all the way 110 was the best mine would do on snow. Ice a different story but the bigger the profile the lower the top speed. That is part of the 19 and up SRX top end. They are all lower.

Rode a friend's XCR 850 last week. They 'feel' fast but are really not. The Winders are deceptively fast. I think it is because they are decidedly heavy and feel more planted because of that. Heavy is not necessarily a bad thing. Enjoy.

That came out a little wrong. XCR 850 s are not slow. They move right along and the owner of it loves his. But I would rather have my RTX. To each his own.
Yep, definitely want to open up the chain case myself and get comfortable with it. I've had a number of them apart before, just not one on a Sidewinder. I appreciate the insights though, good to know what others have dealt with on these sleds!
The screws on the roller,need to be tac welded,even mine were on there way out,before we did that repair.
I was looking at the belt guard, I just got their Drive Shaft saver and could install that at the same time. I have yet to blow a belt but have only put on around 500 miles so far. Is the belly pan saver difficult to install? I remember reading within the RockerDan build thread that there are a few additional holes that need to be drilled? Is this the best option for an aftermarket belt guard?

Clutch rollers are good so far, will keep an eye on them and replace with Thunder Products rollers if I notice any issues.

Here is my short list of projects that I hope to complete before next season:
BOP Drive Shaft Saver
Anti-Seize on the muffler bolts
DMC top gear
Secure Chain Tensioner screws
Tunnel hose protectors
Hurricane cross shaft
BOP tunnel reinforcement

As far as that list goes, I made it to 3k with completely stock sled and no blown belts.
But if it were me, and money is tight, do yourself a favor and remove & grease all you idler & boogie wheels.
Grease both bearings on clutch side. (Jack shaft & drive.) They will be dry. At this time add your axle saver.
Pull chain case cover and inspect top gear & tensioner bolts.
If you're going to purchase anti-seize make sure you get nickel grade or you'll be wasting your time.
I'm not completely sold on all the other add ons, as I'm sitting at 3900k, again with zero issues.
I added a few items last season.
DMC Top gear (mine was shot)
Axle saver

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Agreed, this site brings a wealth of knowledge I could not have hoped to obtain on my own!
You might agree that it's worth the price of VIP membership.... Hint hint... IMO, it pays for membership with each problem I get solved! I've never really identified as a gearhead, and always been in awe of people who can tear something apart and fix it. It used to be I would take my sleds to the dealer for any work. But thanks to this site and a bunch of YouTube videos, I spent the summer tearing apart my Viper and rebuilding all the questionable areas. I feel a great sense of accomplishment and I'm very thankful for this site and the wealth of knowledge that the members bring!
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Sleds that didn’t have the shaft saver from the start,or have a used sled, should consider the new concept lower bearing repair from BOP.This will be the best $160 you will spend on your sled.
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