New to me Viper - What to look for

[snowdust]

Just bought a 2014 Viper LTX DX. 3,500 miles and still under warranty. I haven't kept up on the vipers so not sure what all to look for. This one is for my wife so not looking for performance for now... just reliability. I changed out the tri-hub tonight and as expected the bearings were rough. The rest of suspension looks good.. It has anti stab wheels up front. Front shocks have been upgraded to Qs3's with hygear springs. I put stock single keel skis back on with snowtrackers. Clutching is stock except for barn of parts soft start spring and secondary belt adjuster. Running 8JP belt. Lower balljoints in front end have some play, but nothing horrible. Has a cat windshield with mirrors and Rocz HID lights so that should be nice for her. Warranty worked shows it has been reflashed a couple times but nothing else. I think that's about it. Anything to check? I think I'll do the BOP fuse box relocate kit. That's the only thing on my radar right now. Depending on ride may send rear shocks to hygear but we'll see. What about the clutch side drive bearing? They didn't last unless you greases them on the apex, but not sure on these. Any feedback is appreciated!

 

[viper strike]

Minor things like the heat shield blanket wearing thru.
Some have issues with welds cracking on the headers.
You already know about the tri hub issues.
Sounds like you got it under control.
Most issues come from the performance modz. Let the full pump prime fully then crank the starter hold the key for two or three seconds after it starts to avoid kickbacks.

 

[snowdust]

Thanks! What are the symptoms of a cracked header weld?

 

[viper strike]

Thanks! What are the symptoms of a cracked header weld?

Not exactly sure but there is a thread on it somewhere in here.
I think those were turbod tho
Message cannondale27 he really knows his stuff

 

[yammitrip1]

Check the front arm in the skid, make sure the straps are tight/not allowing your shock to stop the arm or it will pull apart. Look over the sled good, on right side of it check all the clamps and stuff for any little leaks, check over the tripod bolts, under the panels as they looss n up over time.

 

[AttakDog]

Yes do upper and lower belt side drive bearings. Pull the seal and grease

 

[TD Max]

Has Rocks HID lights so that should be nice for her.

If the headlights shine the tree tops on Hi beam that's easy enough to fix. Check with Rock on this.

 

[viper strike]

Yes do upper and lower belt side drive bearings. Pull the seal and grease

How often are you doing this.

 

[AttakDog]

How often are you doing this.

Just did mine at 2700.

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[viper strike]

Just did mine at 2700.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Just did mine at 2700.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

How exactly to you preform this task.
Remove clutches.
Carefully remove dust seals then pack with grease like a wheel bearing ?

 

[AttakDog]

How exactly to you preform this task.
Remove clutches.
Carefully remove dust seals then pack with grease like a wheel bearing ?

Yea just Google it. Detailed instructions all over.

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[snowdust]

Yes do upper and lower belt side drive bearings. Pull the seal and grease

Will do. I have a grease needle that worked good on the apex.

 

[snowfever27]

How exactly to you preform this task.
Remove clutches.
Carefully remove dust seals then pack with grease like a wheel bearing ?

Make sure the inner race of the driveshaft bearing is not spinning on the actual driveshaft. If it is you need to ‘peen’ or mark the driveshaft so that it grabs that inner bearing race. If you let it spin on the driveshaft it will eventually eat so far into the driveshaft that it ruins it. I’ll try and find the link to the thread and post the hyperlink. It’s common on the procross chassis. Some AC mountain sleds almost wore completely through the driveshaft.

 

[snowfever27]

Here, this is the thread on inner race chewing up driveshafts.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/loose-bearing.144235/