dirkdiggler
Suspended
Can someone explain to me how a larger wheel with a fresh hyfax is any different then a Small wheel with a worn Hyfax? If you bent a rail I can tell you it had zero to do with the wheels. It would have bent regaurdless of the wheels. The guy who rides the XTX is a former Motocross rider. he rides harder then anyone I've ever seen. I've seen him Jump his Pickup truck with a sled before. His rails are 100% perfect after 3000 miles with the X wheels.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
the jury is still out on this one then....dirkdiggler said:Can someone explain to me how a larger wheel with a fresh hyfax is any different then a Small wheel with a worn Hyfax? If you bent a rail I can tell you it had zero to do with the wheels. It would have bent regaurdless of the wheels. The guy who rides the XTX is a former Motocross rider. he rides harder then anyone I've ever seen. I've seen him Jump his Pickup truck with a sled before. His rails are 100% perfect after 3000 miles with the X wheels.
Funny with all the talk last year about the Excell wheels I never heard one comment on bending the rails due to larger wheels (maybe I didn't read every post). However, now with the introduction of the "new and improved" slides it seems the larger wheels are a questionable alternative. It seems that certain makes of Yamahas are notorious for slide wear while others are pretty good. For example, I now have 12,000Km on my VL with only the second set of Hyfax; so I can't really complain.
dirkdiggler
Suspended
There are two reasons to go with the X wheels in my opinion.
1. Eliminates hyfax wear
2. Eliminates Drag caused by the OEM wheels being to small.
When we installed these we actually had to use eh break more. When you came to a stop sign instead of the sled slowing down on it's own because it was dragging on the hyfax it would actually coast.
1. Eliminates hyfax wear
2. Eliminates Drag caused by the OEM wheels being to small.
When we installed these we actually had to use eh break more. When you came to a stop sign instead of the sled slowing down on it's own because it was dragging on the hyfax it would actually coast.
jaydaniels
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dirkdiggler said:There are two reasons to go with the X wheels in my opinion.
1. Eliminates hyfax wear
2. Eliminates Drag caused by the OEM wheels being to small.
When we installed these we actually had to use eh break more. When you came to a stop sign instead of the sled slowing down on it's own because it was dragging on the hyfax it would actually coast.
Fuel consumption must be much better also with the reduced drag.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
cannondale27 said:I love my Yamahas but this seems to be like a issue with a bullheaded kid who thinks that anything is better than admitting something is wrong.Its embarrassing and Yamahas $ would be much better spent on other things than lining Duponts pockets.
X2, when I replaced the hyfax on my XLT skid with stock wheels, the skid would easily roll around on the garage floor but when I did the same with my Yamaha skid, it would not roll, it was getting held up by the sliders.(The rear wheels were not even touching the floor, only the sliders were and they were brand new Yamaha wheels!)
Just can't figure out why Yamaha just wouldn't make slightly larger wheels like Doo, Poo and AC?
(and I call BS on weaker rails and the weight of Yamaha sleds, just make them tougher then)
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Irv said:X2, when I replaced the hyfax on my XLT skid with stock wheels, the skid would easily roll around on the garage floor but when I did the same with my Yamaha skid, it would not roll, it was getting held up by the sliders.(The rear wheels were not even touching the floor, only the sliders were and they were brand new Yamaha wheels!)
Just can't figure out why Yamaha just wouldn't make slightly larger wheels like Doo, Poo and AC?
(and I call BS on weaker rails and the weight of Yamaha sleds, just make them tougher then)
I noticed the same thing when I pull the skid off my phazer and my father's cat.
With all the positive feedback from the x wheels I bought some. The way I look at it is the larger wheels just change the point in time that the initial wear stops. Everyone says that the slides wear fast to a certain point then stop wearing. They stop wearing since the wheels start to take the weight. So in theory they should stop wearing much sooner with the larger wheels and there will be more meat left on them.
And I think it will be even better with the extra wheels since the slides will wear much more evenly.
dupont slides
I saw the new slides at the big east show. on the 144" set the angled strips stop short of where the rail tipup is on the XTX , isnt that where it is going to wear out.
I saw the new slides at the big east show. on the 144" set the angled strips stop short of where the rail tipup is on the XTX , isnt that where it is going to wear out.
actionjack
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Installed larger Kimpex Pro wheels on my SX700 in and she definitely freewheeled much better. Never had an issue with the rails in 7 years. The Pioneer kit is on my list. If I didn't already have new Hyfax waiting to be installed I'd try the new ones along with the Pioneer kit.
RW06GT
Extreme
Irv said:X2, when I replaced the hyfax on my XLT skid with stock wheels, the skid would easily roll around on the garage floor but when I did the same with my Yamaha skid, it would not roll, it was getting held up by the sliders.(The rear wheels were not even touching the floor, only the sliders were and they were brand new Yamaha wheels!)
Just can't figure out why Yamaha just wouldn't make slightly larger wheels like Doo, Poo and AC?
(and I call BS on weaker rails and the weight of Yamaha sleds, just make them tougher then)
That's odd. Any time I've had the skid out of my attak it rolls around easily. Consequently, I have not had a problem with slider wear. Wonder what the difference is?
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Slightly off topic, but worth mentioning...
My rail bent while running aftermarket larger wheels and only after 200-300kms of mid season, ideal riding and hitting absolutley nothing. Before the wheels, no bending. These wheels were the kimpex wheels which are grey and black and resemble the rear axel wheels in appearance. The bent the rail because the bearing is at least 2-3mm wider, causing the wheel to stick out further, resulting in much more leverage to be put on the rail.
Furthermore, in the case of larger wheels, isnt it clear that the liklihood of a direct impact to one particular wheel is greater if it sticks down that much further past the rails and slider, where the force can no longer be distributed accross that portion of the track?? For example, if you were to run over a log or ice ridge or whatever, and you had the larger wheels, then the wheels would take much more of the strain than the rails/sliders in comparison to the stock wheels closer to the rail? This effect would be huge when the slider does wear out, especially in the approach angle area.
Personally, stock yamaha sliders, worn to within 35% of being done, and three seasons on them with stock wheels 6000kms + no more bent rails. Might have to check out this new slider, sounds interesting, hopefully yamaha has them at the Toronto sled show!
My rail bent while running aftermarket larger wheels and only after 200-300kms of mid season, ideal riding and hitting absolutley nothing. Before the wheels, no bending. These wheels were the kimpex wheels which are grey and black and resemble the rear axel wheels in appearance. The bent the rail because the bearing is at least 2-3mm wider, causing the wheel to stick out further, resulting in much more leverage to be put on the rail.
Furthermore, in the case of larger wheels, isnt it clear that the liklihood of a direct impact to one particular wheel is greater if it sticks down that much further past the rails and slider, where the force can no longer be distributed accross that portion of the track?? For example, if you were to run over a log or ice ridge or whatever, and you had the larger wheels, then the wheels would take much more of the strain than the rails/sliders in comparison to the stock wheels closer to the rail? This effect would be huge when the slider does wear out, especially in the approach angle area.
Personally, stock yamaha sliders, worn to within 35% of being done, and three seasons on them with stock wheels 6000kms + no more bent rails. Might have to check out this new slider, sounds interesting, hopefully yamaha has them at the Toronto sled show!
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Thanks for posting that info, I think the fact that the wheels where further away from the rails was a larger factor in your rails bending. Leverage is very strong.
Do you have any pictures? Would like to know what way they had bent.
Do you have any pictures? Would like to know what way they had bent.
Yamahammer485
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I do have pictures, but dont have them on me now. I can get them later. The rail bent how you can imagine, so that the bottom part of the wheel was deflected out, and it happened worse on the mag side rail. The wheel which bent it was the front most wheel (big surprise)
BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
If you have a mono skid, the upgrade to pioneer mounts is worth it. You can do this for cheap if you have an old pro action skid around. Just use the old style mounts, when you drill the lower hole, hold the mount down. Then when you install factory wheels, they will be 1/8 lower, just like when you buy the larger ones.
The rails bend, and loosen up with the old mount and stock wheels so it has little to do with larger wheels. If you look at what goes on with the skid and the stupid one bolt mount you will find that most of the wheels are not bolted on in the corect location. The one bolt allows the mount to be slid around and bolted in a few locations. I have seen sleds on the show room floor you could take the idlers and spin them. How much good are they going to be. The second issue is, the mounts for some reason are sometimes not flat allowing them to rock a little once mounted. This makes them move around and loosen up.
If you dont want to buy the pioneer or new style mounts from yamaha or look for used stuff, at a minumum, make sure they are mounted flat and push down on them when you tighten the bolt so the wheel will actually do something.
I want the slides for any speed or mileage they might give, not for slide wear, that is a simple thing to fix.
The rails bend, and loosen up with the old mount and stock wheels so it has little to do with larger wheels. If you look at what goes on with the skid and the stupid one bolt mount you will find that most of the wheels are not bolted on in the corect location. The one bolt allows the mount to be slid around and bolted in a few locations. I have seen sleds on the show room floor you could take the idlers and spin them. How much good are they going to be. The second issue is, the mounts for some reason are sometimes not flat allowing them to rock a little once mounted. This makes them move around and loosen up.
If you dont want to buy the pioneer or new style mounts from yamaha or look for used stuff, at a minumum, make sure they are mounted flat and push down on them when you tighten the bolt so the wheel will actually do something.
I want the slides for any speed or mileage they might give, not for slide wear, that is a simple thing to fix.
evil eagle
Expert
Can anyone tell me if these $120 slides take a higher temp to melt over reg slides? Or are they made of some kind of super slippery material?
If they are about the same as hyperfax. These have been around for years. They have an insert put in the center of a normal slide. From what I remember a normal slide will melt at 3 or 400 deg, and hyperfax take about 700 to melt.
What I find at falt with a slide that can take more temp to melt. Track reinforcement bars, they can only take so much heat. Once they get so hot, what temp I don't know. Then the bars turn to dust and the truck gets weak. I know it has happened 3 times with my apex. Now that I put snow sctachers on my simmons skis , and hyfax will last at least a season now and my track is structurally sound with 8000 miles on it. Tracks before when I ate hyfax all the time were only lasting 3000 miles.
If they are about the same as hyperfax. These have been around for years. They have an insert put in the center of a normal slide. From what I remember a normal slide will melt at 3 or 400 deg, and hyperfax take about 700 to melt.
What I find at falt with a slide that can take more temp to melt. Track reinforcement bars, they can only take so much heat. Once they get so hot, what temp I don't know. Then the bars turn to dust and the truck gets weak. I know it has happened 3 times with my apex. Now that I put snow sctachers on my simmons skis , and hyfax will last at least a season now and my track is structurally sound with 8000 miles on it. Tracks before when I ate hyfax all the time were only lasting 3000 miles.
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They are imbedded with a material called Vespel from DuPont which melts many hundrdeds of degrees hotter than the plastic/graphite hi Perf wide slides, which melt hotter than regular slides. That is why they work.
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