curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
I have a 2006 Apex ER. I just put on new carbides as well as the darting shim mod that is mentioned in the APEX FAQ section on her (works great btw, thx) but now it is very hard to steer at slow speeds in sharp turns (did it before the mod too). I assume it is becuase with these new carbides there is too much ski pressure and when you are running slow in tight corners there is so much biting deep down its causing it to steer like a car without power steering. Is this a correct assumption? If so can you tell me how to adjust the ski weight? Is it via the limitor strap or is it acheived with the dials on the front ski shocks?
Thx
Thx


sgauthier
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Messages
- 841
- Reaction score
- 161
- Points
- 1,058
- Location
- southwest, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2011 Apex XTX
Yes you would be correct. you can let your limiter strap out one hole or instead let your coil spring out a little at a time on the front rear suspension shock. you might have to adjust your transfer as well but i would do the others first. i wouldn't touch your front ski shocks if it stays planted when turning. just do one at a time and little adjustments each time and keep track of where you started in case you need to go back. good luck
curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
When you say the front rear suspension shock do you mean the main shock that the dial on the side of the tunnel is connected to?


sgauthier
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Messages
- 841
- Reaction score
- 161
- Points
- 1,058
- Location
- southwest, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2011 Apex XTX
sorry but i was thinking you had the XTX with the dual rear shocks. if your limiter strap is all the way out then i'm not sure how to take the weight off the front on the RA single shock suspension. hopefully someone else with that suspension can help you out, i'm thinking yo uwould need to play with your transfer at the back but not sure.
curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
Thank you sir.. Anyone have the answer to this?
Thx
Thx
sgauthier said:sorry but i was thinking you had the XTX with the dual rear shocks. if your limiter strap is all the way out then i'm not sure how to take the weight off the front on the RA single shock suspension. hopefully someone else with that suspension can help you out, i'm thinking yo uwould need to play with your transfer at the back but not sure.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
If you have a mono shock you would adjust the control rod/transfer rod. This controls the ski pressure.
I found this:
"The Adjustable Control Rod System is used to adjust weight transfer and acts as a floating link between the front and rear suspension arms. Under acceleration, the front of the sled raises while the rear suspension arm compresses, transferring weight from the front to the rear. The control rod is connected to the rear arm, and extends while the rear arm compresses. When the control rod reaches its maximum length it couples the front and rear arms stopping the weight transfer action. The control rod’s maximum length can be adjusted which adjusts when the suspension is coupled. By increasing the maximum length it will increase the weight transfer. Reducing the maximum length reduces the weight transfer. The adjuster is threaded and can be turned in or out to allow more or less rod movement and weight transfer. The total range of the adjuster is 20mm with the standard position set in the middle. This means that there is 10mm on either side for more or less transfer depending on what an individual likes. An adjuster wrench is provided in the tool kit with measuring marks and indicators for standard, minimum and maximum settings. Before adjusting the control rod, clean the threads and use a spray lube before moving the locknut and adjuster."
Here is the link it is from:
http://www.motoneigeauquebec.com/forum/ ... -2097.html
I found this:
"The Adjustable Control Rod System is used to adjust weight transfer and acts as a floating link between the front and rear suspension arms. Under acceleration, the front of the sled raises while the rear suspension arm compresses, transferring weight from the front to the rear. The control rod is connected to the rear arm, and extends while the rear arm compresses. When the control rod reaches its maximum length it couples the front and rear arms stopping the weight transfer action. The control rod’s maximum length can be adjusted which adjusts when the suspension is coupled. By increasing the maximum length it will increase the weight transfer. Reducing the maximum length reduces the weight transfer. The adjuster is threaded and can be turned in or out to allow more or less rod movement and weight transfer. The total range of the adjuster is 20mm with the standard position set in the middle. This means that there is 10mm on either side for more or less transfer depending on what an individual likes. An adjuster wrench is provided in the tool kit with measuring marks and indicators for standard, minimum and maximum settings. Before adjusting the control rod, clean the threads and use a spray lube before moving the locknut and adjuster."
Here is the link it is from:
http://www.motoneigeauquebec.com/forum/ ... -2097.html
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Also is your track studded and what length carbides. These will all come into question.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2005
- Messages
- 4,989
- Reaction score
- 234
- Points
- 1,573
- Location
- Ottawa, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2018 MXZ 850
Have you checked the steering with the front end lifted off the ground? It's possible it's stiff due to the steering bushings are dry. Lube em up.
curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
Yes, track is studded with 144 and the carbides are 4" and i have the shims installed (found that article on this site).
Thx
Thx


thor452
Because I can
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,029
- Reaction score
- 621
- Points
- 1,603
- Location
- Shawano,WI 54166
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
4 inches of carbide with 144 studs that machine must push thru the corners bad.
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 1,129
- Reaction score
- 39
- Points
- 1,088
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario.Ca
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 06 Attak
01 SXR Long Track
Take all of the tension off of the ski springs. Lift the front of the sled in the air, loosen the spring adjuster nut on top of the spring until the spring is loose, tighten until touching then 1/2 more turn and tighten lock nut. This will lower the front or the sled making it handle much better. The transfer rod does nothing for ski pressure, it only limits the amount of ski lift. When the rear suspension is not coupled (meaning that the transfer rod is floating, not in contact with either end inside the tube). When the transfer rod inside the tube contacts either end then the suspension is coupled and the front and back swing arm move in unison. When uncoupled then they move independently. When you are sitting on the sled the transfer rod should be in float, check the limiter strap, if it is under tension then loosen it, this also limits ski lift but if it is under tension when just sitting on the sled it will be pulling up on the front of the skid and putting that pressure on the skis. Hope this helps.
curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
K, well handling is NOT the issue per say. It corners just fine, with NO push thru that i can notice.. This issue is that it is very hard to turn (almost like there is way to much carbide grabbing). It feels like the sled is on a railway track and you are trying to turn off of the rails... I can only assume it is too much ski pressure since driving on pavement is fairly easy... When the sled is at rest with no one on it, the limiter strap has slack in it, so that would tell me that it is fine (i also looked and don't see any more holes to let the strap OUT.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Could be the steering post bushings or the bushing that is on the right side of the sled that makes the 90 degree turn up to the front. Had that tighten on me once.Grimm said:Have you checked the steering with the front end lifted off the ground? It's possible it's stiff due to the steering bushings are dry. Lube em up.
curtis.venne
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2013
- Messages
- 24
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 31
can anyone send me a picture of where these bushings etc are located on the sled?
thx
thx
apex55 said:Could be the steering post bushings or the bushing that is on the right side of the sled that makes the 90 degree turn up to the front. Had that tighten on me once.Grimm said:Have you checked the steering with the front end lifted off the ground? It's possible it's stiff due to the steering bushings are dry. Lube em up.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 24
- Views
- 4K
- Replies
- 10
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 76
- Views
- 15K
- Replies
- 0
- Views
- 517
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.