Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
There are a lot of set-ups that will work. As I stated but sledfreak you disagree with, I loosened my front shock pre-load about 1 inch, I have 168 megabites, I reduced my transfer halfway between standard and minimum and I can tailgate my buddy’s SRX in the corners and we ride very aggressive. I can ride with him in the corners but pull on him coming out of the corners. Your trying to sell your set-up as the only one that will work. Your set-up does have its pro's but it has it's con's. as well.
n2oiroc
Expert
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
I can only speak for MY RTX with pilots....
when i got sled it was sitting rather high,the A arms were going upward,not sure of pressure but the sled would lift a ski so bad i near rolled it a few times..
I tried what everyone said,tightened strap,tightend trans rod...ect ect...still was horrible.
I then lowered my front end till A arms were LEVEL(horizontal) or just below level....and VOILA!(avatar pic was strictly lower for radaring that day)
i was able to loosen back off my transf rod to get good transfer back,and this thing was 100% better then before.
We also,lowered buddys GT to about same level with his coils...and His seemed to imrove alot as well....I dont know if his GT rails quite as good as mine cause i havent really ridden his much.
I did ADD a 13mm bar now....so Im anxious to see this babey really RAIL now....I LOVE my transfer,so going any tighter with rod or strap is not for me...I WANT IT ALL..LOL.
I did tighten up one hole from stock way back when i got sled,and thats where it stayed on the strap.
oh yeah,steering is light with the pilots,no need for anymore then 6 inches...wouldnt want it as it bites plenty hard in corners now.
Dan
when i got sled it was sitting rather high,the A arms were going upward,not sure of pressure but the sled would lift a ski so bad i near rolled it a few times..
I tried what everyone said,tightened strap,tightend trans rod...ect ect...still was horrible.
I then lowered my front end till A arms were LEVEL(horizontal) or just below level....and VOILA!(avatar pic was strictly lower for radaring that day)
i was able to loosen back off my transf rod to get good transfer back,and this thing was 100% better then before.
We also,lowered buddys GT to about same level with his coils...and His seemed to imrove alot as well....I dont know if his GT rails quite as good as mine cause i havent really ridden his much.
I did ADD a 13mm bar now....so Im anxious to see this babey really RAIL now....I LOVE my transfer,so going any tighter with rod or strap is not for me...I WANT IT ALL..LOL.
I did tighten up one hole from stock way back when i got sled,and thats where it stayed on the strap.
oh yeah,steering is light with the pilots,no need for anymore then 6 inches...wouldnt want it as it bites plenty hard in corners now.
Dan
n2oiroc
Expert
what we really need is some stiffer strait springs for the front. anyone know if rx1 springs fit the kyb apex shocks? i know pioneer makes stiffer springs for those.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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Agreed..... I was only stating what works for me and that adding the 13mm sway bar will not cure the entire handling issue.mrance111 said:
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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How did you get your buddies to go the same level as you with the coils? Buy new springs?
Wow, there is alot of good setup info here, and I'm really interested, as my first "good" ride last Friday included alot of ski lift and "near" rollovers. As far as lowering the front end, somebody in one of these threads stated that the springs are set way too tight from the factory (non floats of course), and I would have to agree with them. I checked mine against the owners manual, and while they are set at the standard length, the sled has almost zero "sag". I can stand on the front bumper and barely get it to move. I rode hard over big stutters on purpose to try and find the suspensions limits, and from what I could tell the front end was not using its' full stroke. I never once bottomed out all day, and get this: I had the compression clickers ALL the way out. From my dirtbike days, I remember the proper setup is to set sag at 1/3 of the total travel. When you guys mention lowering the front, are you saying lowering more than "proper" sag, or just backing off on springs that are possibly way too tight to begin with?
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Doug said:
I'm not sure what sled or year you have. Yamaha might have made a change from the 06's to the 07's as far as factory set-up so I can't say the lower height would be from the factory setting or from the recommended setting. I just know that I felt the same way about the stiffness of the front shocks on my sled. Lowering mine 1" made a difference with mine. I did decrease the transfer also so I believe it was a combination of the two that solved my problem.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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I know if I changed the front springs in my GT to lower it about an 1 1/2 to 1 3/4, and put a stiifer sway bar 13mm, I could probably loosen up the limiter stap and put more transfer into it. But, that cost money and it has not snowed yet...
The Tweaker
Extreme
That in fact may be the case. I set my rear spring up on my 07 GT for my weight the other day (220 lbs.) and did not have to adjust much to get into the 40-45mm range. I had lots of length left on the spring as well...
I might have to agree with what a few others have said as well with regards to heavy steering. I switched to Razors and did not find it to have heavy steering at all with the transfer rod in the stock position. Makes me wonder if guys who are coming off 600 and 700's are the ones noticing this where I came off a ZR900 with Simmons and think the steering effort is very similar.
I also agree with lightening your front springs as well. I have found this to be an easy adjustment with my prior sleds to reduce inside lift and improve handling. Just hope you don't have to loosen them up so much that you get excessive roll or bottoming.
Iceman57
TY 4 Stroke Guru
SledFreak said:
I here you SledFreak about the cost for mod's and it hasn't even snowed yet. I have put about $1000 into mine over the summer and haven’t had a chance to ride it yet with all the new goodies. I'm getting impatient for the snow.
[quote="mrance111
I'm not sure what sled or year you have.
[/quote]
07 Attak GT.
I'm not sure what sled or year you have.
[/quote]
07 Attak GT.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
One thing you'll notice with many of these posts (and others if you search) is many have reduced inside ski lift by reducing the preload on the front springs and many have reduced inside ski lift by increasing the preload on the front springs.
If you don't touch the limiter strap, surprisingly both normally do reduce inside ski lift if you make big enough changes to the front preload.
Lowering the center of gravity significantly (reducing the preload) it's fairly obvious the reason why the sled corners flatter. With the mass lower down it can't make the sled roll as much when cornering.
Increasing the preload on the front springs, essentially increases the height of the front. You'd expect that to increase the inside ski lift, but the reason it doesn't is because the limiter strap is now closer to being tight and closer to pulling up on the front of the skid when inside ski lift occurs. If, instead of increasing the preload, you tightened up the limiter strap by the same amount of "increased tightness" that raising the front did you would actually be better off (because you didn't raise the center of gravity, yet still made the limiter come into play sooner when cornering).
This is the same reason that in most cases if you take a sled as setup from the factory and lower the front by a small amount that you find the sled is more tippy (limiter strap is looser). Without touching the limiter you have to lower the front quite a bit before you start to see less inside ski lift.
The key here is if you lower the front any amount, it's best to tighten the limiter strap at the same time to keep the same amount of limiter "looseness" when sitting on the sled on flat ground. This ensures the limiter's contribution to reduced inside ski lift remains the same.
If you lower the front enough that you find you don't need the limiter's contribution, you can, as mrance111 has, keep the limiter loose (or looser). Personally I'm willing to loose a little straight line acceleration traction for the ability to power out of a corner so I always keep my sleds setup so the limiter contributes to reducing inside ski lift.
Note everything I have posted in this thread applies to a monoshock sled. Things are slightly different (but not much) with a traditional skid.
If you don't touch the limiter strap, surprisingly both normally do reduce inside ski lift if you make big enough changes to the front preload.
Lowering the center of gravity significantly (reducing the preload) it's fairly obvious the reason why the sled corners flatter. With the mass lower down it can't make the sled roll as much when cornering.
Increasing the preload on the front springs, essentially increases the height of the front. You'd expect that to increase the inside ski lift, but the reason it doesn't is because the limiter strap is now closer to being tight and closer to pulling up on the front of the skid when inside ski lift occurs. If, instead of increasing the preload, you tightened up the limiter strap by the same amount of "increased tightness" that raising the front did you would actually be better off (because you didn't raise the center of gravity, yet still made the limiter come into play sooner when cornering).
This is the same reason that in most cases if you take a sled as setup from the factory and lower the front by a small amount that you find the sled is more tippy (limiter strap is looser). Without touching the limiter you have to lower the front quite a bit before you start to see less inside ski lift.
The key here is if you lower the front any amount, it's best to tighten the limiter strap at the same time to keep the same amount of limiter "looseness" when sitting on the sled on flat ground. This ensures the limiter's contribution to reduced inside ski lift remains the same.
If you lower the front enough that you find you don't need the limiter's contribution, you can, as mrance111 has, keep the limiter loose (or looser). Personally I'm willing to loose a little straight line acceleration traction for the ability to power out of a corner so I always keep my sleds setup so the limiter contributes to reducing inside ski lift.
Note everything I have posted in this thread applies to a monoshock sled. Things are slightly different (but not much) with a traditional skid.
Apsterbobed
Extreme
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
I just got a Broshure from Pioneerperformance..
It states clearly in it..
IF YOU OWN A APEX WHICH HAS FOX FLOATS... THE 13MM SWAYBAR IS A MUST FOR FLAT CORNERING...
Sure you can suck up the limiter strap and help the ski lift , but just remember that doing so also takes away weight tranfer and suspension travel..
FYI... When i ride my sled.. i come into the corners very fast, only let off the gas a little and use the engine breaking to slow me down.. then i apply throttle going threw the corner (skis never come off the ground at speeds over 30mph on a corner) and pin it when the trail straitens out..
It states clearly in it..
IF YOU OWN A APEX WHICH HAS FOX FLOATS... THE 13MM SWAYBAR IS A MUST FOR FLAT CORNERING...
Sure you can suck up the limiter strap and help the ski lift , but just remember that doing so also takes away weight tranfer and suspension travel..
FYI... When i ride my sled.. i come into the corners very fast, only let off the gas a little and use the engine breaking to slow me down.. then i apply throttle going threw the corner (skis never come off the ground at speeds over 30mph on a corner) and pin it when the trail straitens out..
