No electric at all!!! 05 vector Help!!!!

i have had a bad ignition switch on my 05 rx. peice broke off inside and blocked the start contact. that was fun finding when the kill switch was shorting in the open position.
 
So at least I know these silly things happen. It's easy too simple because when I parked the damn thing it was fine.
 
trosell14843 said:
So at least I know these silly things happen. It's easy too simple because when I parked the damn thing it was fine.
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if it was fine when you parked then 10 chances to 1 its nothing physically broken, either corrosion on a contact or a lose plug. a meter with a continuity check function would show you the problem in less then 10 minutes.

theres a 2 prong plug for the kill switch, unplug it and check for continuity when the kill switch is up and verify no continuity when its down.

ignition switch same thing, 4 wires, 1 set of 2 for the power to the gauges and load center, the other set of 2 is for the starter. unplug the ignition switch and check across the same colored wires, prob red/redwhite and i cant remember the other ones. but with the key turned to on you should have continuity between the 2, and with the key to start you should have continuity only when you have the key fully turned.

dont even think about cutting into your harness lmao, theres nothing wrong in there unless you had a rat chew through it, in which case you would be blowing fuses. If your starter isnt even turning over then it narrows it down more. Open the fuse box under the hood, stick one end of your meter onto the metal frame and put the other end into the fuse box, check each side of each fuse slot (with all the fuses removed) you should have 12v constant on only one side of that whole box. if you have voltage on each one and the fuses are all fine (again continuity check just because it looks ok doesnt mean it is) if you have verified those are good then high probability its your ignition switch or the relays. have you tried checking the relays above the footwell yet?

there should be 3, take them all out, make sure you label which one goes where, 2 of them will only have 4 pins, and one will have 5 pins, dont worry about the 5 pin one just make sure the pins are clean and shiny and plug it back in. The other 2 you need to check to make sure they work.

the pins should look like this

| |
_ _


with your meter set on resistance ΩΩΩΩΩΩΩ check between each pair, one set should read some resistance and the other set should read nothing or zero, do that for both of them. if you have one that reads ZERO on both sets then thats your issue.

if you cant do this then just stop now and get grizz to help you before you make the problem worse, especially if your not taking connectors apart properly you can mangle them and they wont go back together and then your reeeeeeeeeally in trouble.
 
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J 1635 cute selfie;) I am waiting to get the sled back because it's on my trailer that needed new lights. Then I need the new ignition switch that I ordered because that might have been an easy fix. I will dig to the kill switch when I get it back and re check the switch as you said. That fails I will then get ahold of grizz for sure and likely drive it there.
 
trosell14843 said:
J 1635 cute selfie;) I am waiting to get the sled back because it's on my trailer that needed new lights. Then I need the new ignition switch that I ordered because that might have been an easy fix. I will dig to the kill switch when I get it back and re check the switch as you said. That fails I will then get ahold of grizz for sure and likely drive it there.
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Ok, as long as you have a decent digital multimeter and you atleast understand the basic concept of electricity theres no reason you cant figure this out yourself, and itll help you learn how it works which is nice when your stuck on the side of the trail in the dark with no lights or something silly. if you get it back and you want to tackle it some more then just drop a message here, i can even take pictures or a youtube video with my meter and sled to show you how to do it properly. good luck
 
J you totally helped. Yes I did freaking get into those foot well relays they all looked good but I will check continuing. Freaking stripped one of the screws heads (damn soft metal) they are. I will check the kill switch 2 wires on up and down I really think it is there after I had to cut the tabs out of the ignition to get it open because I couldn't press those tiny tabs in or should I say didn't have the patient. Anyways didn't think getting a 20 ignition was too bad anyways.

I am ALL about figuring it out myself because I agree I can help others and I can help my self and not be stranded in the trial or on the lakes in old forge mid-winter. I am not afraid of diving in and rolling up my sleeves to get it done. I hurt myself sometimes because I want to know it all. Thanks thanks thanks all here. My last stop is grizz being he's close but I want that knowledge myself.
 
trosell14843 said:
J you totally helped. Yes I did freaking get into those foot well relays they all looked good but I will check continuing. Freaking stripped one of the screws heads (damn soft metal) they are. I will check the kill switch 2 wires on up and down I really think it is there after I had to cut the tabs out of the ignition to get it open because I couldn't press those tiny tabs in or should I say didn't have the patient. Anyways didn't think getting a 20 ignition was too bad anyways.

I am ALL about figuring it out myself because I agree I can help others and I can help my self and not be stranded in the trial or on the lakes in old forge mid-winter. I am not afraid of diving in and rolling up my sleeves to get it done. I hurt myself sometimes because I want to know it all. Thanks thanks thanks all here. My last stop is grizz being he's close but I want that knowledge myself.
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thats what i like to hear, people that actually want the help deserve to get it so whatever you need let us know. and definitely been there snipping wires before these plugs can be a bitch to open, but you gotta remember when these sleds are doing 100mph those plugs are supposed to stay together, just make sure they are warm before you attempt to open them, that and have 2 small flat pocket screw drivers (essential to opening them right)

and just fyi those relays will almost always look completely fine on the outside but inside they usually shot. If you still have the black ones then i would just order 2 of the updated solid state ones with no moving parts (they are bright red vs the old black ones) even if your old ones are fine you should just change them for peace of mind i think there 12 bucks each just order them so you got em. And when you have it back let us know
 
Thumbs up. They are black. I will get the codes and order the solid state ones. And add always will report the results. Yeah I didn't warm the switch ; ( I did have the micro flat heads and enlisted my kids to pull while I poked. Didn't work cold; ( than you again and grizz & the others. this is how it is suppose to work here. :)
 
Wasn't the key switch. ; ( more at it tomorrow
 
J I'd like it too but it has the 12 volts on top through it and the switch harness has power to it so I can jump the starter there. Tomorrow I get into the kill switch wires like grizz thought. Then i get to grizz
 
trosell14843 said:
J I'd like it too but it has the 12 volts on top through it and the switch harness has power to it so I can jump the starter there. Tomorrow I get into the kill switch wires like grizz thought. Then i get to grizz
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wait im confused. if you unplug the switch and use a jumper in there it turns the engine over?

you know the sled had to be started and running before the gauge comes to life right? just making sure.
 

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and to clarify that for you.

you should have 12v at the first 15a fuse inside your fuse box when the key is turned to on.

kill switch is a 2 prong white plug i believe inside the rubber boot surrounding the bunch of wires right above the engine head, should be Brown + Brown/White wires, do a continuity check on those

when the engine is running it provides 12volts to the relay which in turn powers up the gauges.

when you turn the key over all the way does it even crank at all?
 
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You can laugh all you wan't about cutting the harness open! It only takes a small slit by the ground blocks to check for corrosion and tape back up if clean! LOL, Not saying this is the problem but it is quite common on older Apex's! Fixed a friend's 06 last winter with about the same symptoms?
 
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