No electric at all!!! 05 vector Help!!!!

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Snowmobile
2005 vector
Put the battery in after the summer slumber. Nothing at all!! Won't show any electric at all. The battery is full charge 13 volts and still nothing at all. Fuses seem fine and it doesn't even draw down when I turn the key. Nothing . Help!!!!!. What do you think all? Into the 6 th hour of frustration just checking everything before it goes off to the dealer. Of course it sounds ground or fuse but can't find anything
 
Some times a cute little mouse finds a snug place to hide during the off season.. Then it can't refuse the temptation of munching on those wonderful wires. I know, it's happened to me a few times..MM.:o|
 
Hello check your plug under air box, has a 30amp fuse on each side of plug, wiggle it, sometimes makes no connection.
 
Hello check your plug under air box, has a 30amp fuse on each side of plug, wiggle it, sometimes makes no connection.
x2
On my rx1, same thing happened to me. Turned out being a wire in the fuse relay near the battery. Sled would start one minute and then after a ride, it would act like there was no battery in it
 
Will check. The 30 foes seem a little loose and yes some freaking mouse stuff is in the area. Will report. Nope on the fuses. Looks like one is a dummy hole the other is real relay fuse.
 
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I am assuming the Vector wiring harneses are similar to an Apex so if nothing simple shows up start cutting the main harnes open. Theres ground block's in a couple location's where several ground wires are connected together and they tend to corrode over time. It's been talked about in here before and had it with a friend's Apex last season. Look for a bulge in the harness where the blocks are.
 
Wow cutting open. I need a warm garage.
 
It's not that bad, I started in the front left corner of the motor in side the delta box, located the bulge where the block of ground wires come to geather and just cut that area open. I was able to push and pull on the harness and get some response to home in on the problemed area. Depends how bad it is maybe you could do the same and see if you get power to come on. I think there is a couple more of these farther up the harness near the steering gate. I just cut the blocks out, wire nutted all wire's together with some dielectrical grease and taped up real good.
 
Okay is on the list to get to. I was able to get the starter to crank over with a wire direct from battery to the ignition harness when I detached the ignition harness. Also could crank it direct wire into the starter block red-white wire. Mesmerizing. but didn't solve my issue as when I plug the ignition harness back in and turn the key hot - nothing still!!
 
Okay is on the list to get to. I was able to get the starter to crank over with a wire direct from battery to the ignition harness when I detached the ignition harness. Also could crank it direct wire into the starter block red-white wire. Mesmerizing. but didn't solve my issue as when I plug the ignition harness back in and turn the key hot - nothing still!!
hang in there
 
The saving grace here boys is that I already have to pick up my new 13 apex se. But . . . Dont laugh the f ING trailer light now don't work after I drove it to the house with Bo issues!!!!! Electrical bs all against me!!!
 
Like others have said, take the airbox off and go over every inch of wiring especially when you mention there's evidence of mice.

I recall reading about somebody having a similar problem and it turned out to be the connectors for the 30A starter fuse were totally corroded. Couldn't see it unless you got "right there" and looked.

Did you check the connections in the nose of the sled?
 
Had the starter block off and reconnected the wires. Can't be there as it looks clean/no corrosion. As in the nose I can't see totally but looks all connected is tripped a freaking screw head and can't get it out to revive the tool box to see under but I can sneak a peek at the harness and they look connected. Although I can jump start the starter it will not engage and actually start. May be being retarded by the kill switch? Or that the ignition isn't showing engage? ?. I think my hours are shot. Might be mt first trip to the dealer and see if they can figure it out with all their trouble shooting knowledge. I am so maxed out on this is killing me. The snow is ice where I have stood beating myself up over it. And the wife wants the hardwood floors installed I am half done with. ;) you know. I will report the details if I deliver it Monday. ;) may take one more shot tomorrow but I can't imagine I want to cut open those harnesses if they can do resistance tests on the thing I don't know how. I still like ignition switch or the kill because it won't "fully start" even when I by pass it with the wire. Freaking just running in circles on this without curing open the harnesses; that I prefer they screw up on.
 
Have you checked the connector to the key switch for corrosion. It doesn't have to be green with corrosion to have a poor connection. the pins can oxidize creating a nonconducting layer on the pins of the connector. Do you have a test light or multimeter to troubleshoot the problem? If you can jump the starter and roll the engine the problem should be easy to diagnose. Check for power (12 volts dc) on both sides of the 30 amp fuse in the starter relay located under the right side of the air box. on the starter relay there is a connector with a red, black and red/white striped wire. With the key held in the crank (start) position probe the red/white striped wire for power. If it has 12 volts dc while the key is in the crank position check the black wire for ground. I can walk you through this tomorrow.
 
I will try that tomorrow. I have been using the multi meter. The block is fine if does get the 12 volts. I wasn't sure how to check the switch but I gotta believe it's up there somewhere not near the block because that shows the 12v.
 


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