RX-1MAN
Lifetime Member
Put this setup on my '05. No oil mess or oil useage. No need to drain any moisture as it stays in the factory catch can. I've got almost 1,300 miles, the last 600 with this mod and no issues so I'm convinced it works well. Rode several days at -15 to -20F. Just take the hose out of the original air box and use that and a 3/4 elbow to connect between the catch can original hose and the filter kit evac fitting. Also I have not seen any moisture or oil coming out of the factory split in the airbox hose.
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Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
You think that kit would give me much of a horse power gain on my Rage ..and where do you buy them if so??
RX-1MAN
Lifetime Member
Here's what Freddie who put the kit together for the four cylinder RX-1 had to say about the Vector he tested.
SUPERTUNER said:I have completed the dyno testing on the Yamaha Vector. The results were not as gratifying as the RX1 I am sorry to say. The best I could do with my handmade air kit was to struggle to get a little less power than the stock airbox. At this time I would have to say the stock airbox is the way to go for the 3 cylinder 4 stroke engines.
Stock HP seemed correct for this engine in and around the 115 HP range. Naturally as the opportunity presents itself I will continue testing and doing development.
Freddie
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Good idea nd looks good too RX-1Man.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
This makes a lot more sense to me as gravity should eliminate the moisture and oil problem. All of the others I have seen have the drain far lower than anything else actually attracting the oil and moisture.
Jim
Jim
Yama-Crazy
VIP Member
Ok thanks Supertuner!SUPERTUNER said:Good idea nd looks good too RX-1Man.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
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Freddie, you think this is a better route to take and use the stock catch pan....as shown in that pic...
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
MrSled said:Freddie, you think this is a better route to take and use the stock catch pan....as shown in that pic...
Yes I do. I have been saying for 2 seasons that the hose should run up hill to prevent oil from getting to the filters and carbs.
Freddie
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How bout the slit in the tube??
rhoag
Expert
RX1man,
I recently installed the ECP kit on my 05. The fittings going through the prefilters, what arethey, where did you get them and how do they attach firmly to the prefilters? Where they part of the original evac system that everyone on here talks about? I would really like to do this to my sled the K&N filter that comes with the ECP kit just doesn't look right, also is there anything else that needs to be done? I have heard of guys putting an automotive style PVC style valve in the head some place??
Thanks for any help in advance.
I recently installed the ECP kit on my 05. The fittings going through the prefilters, what arethey, where did you get them and how do they attach firmly to the prefilters? Where they part of the original evac system that everyone on here talks about? I would really like to do this to my sled the K&N filter that comes with the ECP kit just doesn't look right, also is there anything else that needs to be done? I have heard of guys putting an automotive style PVC style valve in the head some place??
Thanks for any help in advance.
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
MrSled said:How bout the slit in the tube??
IMO that will only make a mess of your bellypan Tom. Frankly if EPA gets wind of that I think Yamaha will be in trouble. The bellypan is far from oil tight!
RX-1MAN
Lifetime Member
Rhoag, the fittings and grommets through the filters are part of the original evac design. It is all listed in the FAQ I believe. On my '03 I had the original setup, but went to the current design on the new sled as I didn't want to deal with daily draining.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm pretty sure in very cold temperatures and long hauls enough ice will build up in the tube somewhere to plug it up.
This solution is probably ideal for warmer climates, but in -40° weather you'll need to either heat the tube and/or insulate it.
Basically as soon as the tube allowed to get below zero, the moisture in the gases venting from the engine will freeze and start to build up on the walls of the tube. The only option is for the tube to remain above freezing temperatures (unless there is a slit close enough to the engine to stay above freezing - messy though).
This solution is probably ideal for warmer climates, but in -40° weather you'll need to either heat the tube and/or insulate it.
Basically as soon as the tube allowed to get below zero, the moisture in the gases venting from the engine will freeze and start to build up on the walls of the tube. The only option is for the tube to remain above freezing temperatures (unless there is a slit close enough to the engine to stay above freezing - messy though).
GreenMtnRx1
Extreme
I have 1200 miles on my ecp w/ evac and I just noticed the little slit I put in the evac hose has opened up alot. I put a slit in it about 1 1/2 inches on the bottom close to the engine. Is that to long? Is it better on the top or side? I empty the water out alot so I don't think it froze. I want to replace the hose but I don't want this to happen again.
With all due respect to Freddie and those who have been getting creative on new and improved ecp breather work-arounds utilizing the stock catch can, I've been wondering where does the excess moisture in the catch can go? On the stock set-up wouldn’t it eventually overflow into the airbox (maybe contributing to the airbox breather freeze ups – hence the fail-safe slit) and then eventually just drain out into the bellypan via that small hose at the Northeast corner of the airbox? If that's right, where is excess moisture, if any, draining when an auxiliary hose is run from the catch can uphill over the motor and (a) to the other side for a k&n breather or (b) back downhill into the k&n filters?
1. Back into the crank? And if so, is that also a "bad thing"? Isn't that why Dynarex's evac setup had a slight downhill from the crank exhaust fitting to the "t" for the drain tube - to make sure the condensate ended up in the drain tube and not back in the crank?
2. Pushed out and into the auxiliary hose? If that’s the case, aren’t we back to square one with a possible freeze up and blockage, especially when the engine compartment cools down?
Probably depends on conditions and where you store your sled, but I could see the catch can filling up in some circumstances of regular use, and if it does, wouldn't that lead to problems of one sort or another, regardless of whether the auxiliary hose exiting the catch can is heated/insulated or not? Maybe using Dynarex's general "down hill" set up with the catch can is the closest thing to stock engineering for crank pressure evac and moisture handling?
1. Back into the crank? And if so, is that also a "bad thing"? Isn't that why Dynarex's evac setup had a slight downhill from the crank exhaust fitting to the "t" for the drain tube - to make sure the condensate ended up in the drain tube and not back in the crank?
2. Pushed out and into the auxiliary hose? If that’s the case, aren’t we back to square one with a possible freeze up and blockage, especially when the engine compartment cools down?
Probably depends on conditions and where you store your sled, but I could see the catch can filling up in some circumstances of regular use, and if it does, wouldn't that lead to problems of one sort or another, regardless of whether the auxiliary hose exiting the catch can is heated/insulated or not? Maybe using Dynarex's general "down hill" set up with the catch can is the closest thing to stock engineering for crank pressure evac and moisture handling?
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