No start, just a hum of solenoid at start-up on MPI Viper??

[DS22-HuberWoodsME]

Researched this topic but did not hear the exact answer I am looking for...

I let a guy use my 2015 Viper that has the MPI full kit. Brings it back and it wouldn't start right up to unload, which it always starts up easy. I always let the fuel pump cycle wait a second longer than crank up and starts. On this occasion I did that sequence, but I heard a strange fast grinding noise near the engine which I assume was the starter, and it did not start. let it sit, then cranked again and it started but the starter sounded different. Let it run to unload then killed it again to try a restart. Now it will not start at all. All you hear is the solenoid humming so I assume that has power. Jumped the solenoid and no attempt to start. I sounds/feels like a voltage draw at start-up but never goes.
What should I chase after? My starter stuck or junk? or solenoid not working like it should?

Appreciate your help!

 

[maim]

sounding like it broke a magnet and jammed the starter. starter needs to come out.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

Yep

 

[DS22-HuberWoodsME]

DANG FLAMMIT. Just as I expected. Thanks for the reassurance.

 

[InRBigness]

If it makes you feel better, There is almost nothing your friend could do to cause this. They are known to have this happen. Take the oil pan cover off, remove the oil filter then you can remove the starter. Nothing else has to be removed. Its tight, but I have done it a few times. Be careful as the metal is sharp.

 

[Shattered]

Sounds like what I had happen to mine early last season. I tried everything (relays, starter relay, fuses, checked tether, charged battery), and nothing. I jumped the starter relay and got nothing. I was hoping it wasn't the starter, but it was.

Huge pain to change the starter. A job I hope I never have to do again. As InRBigness stated, it can be done through the bottom access panel and the only thing you need to remove is the oil filter. I was real close to pulling the motor. I you have a friend with small hands, you may want to try to recruit them for this.

Ratchet wrenches are a must since a ratchet and socket don't fit in there. If I ever have to do this again, I'm going to cut the open end off of a ratchet wrench and weld an extension on it. I don't know if anyone makes an extended length ratchet wrench, but I couldn't find any. With the length of a standard ratchet wrench like I was using, I could only use my fingertips to turn it, and most of the time I could only get a click or two on the ratchet.

Once I got the starter out, I was wondering how in the hell I was going to get the bolts back in, because there's no room to work in there. I bought a set of long (about a foot long) needle nose pliers. I was able to get the bolts back into place with them, but getting the bolts started was another issue. Since there is no room to work, getting the starter to align with the threaded holes was a challenge. With pry bars, I was able to get it to line up and using a pry bar against the back side of the cooler, I was able to hold it in place while I cranked on it with a ratchet wrench and got it started.

It took me about four six hour days to do this. If I had to do it again, I think it would take about two days. It's an exercise in patience.

Probably the most frustrating part was getting the ground electrical connector on. Just when you think you have everything lined up and ready to go, everything springs apart and you have to start over again...and much cussing ensues.

I called Anchorage Yamaha to ask about getting my ECU reflashed as I read online that there was an update around 2018 that corrected the motor from kicking back and destroying the starter. I was hoping that I could mail it in since Anchorage is about 800 miles away, but the mechanic I spoke to said that I would need to bring the whole sled it to get this done.

I told him the story about my starter being destroyed, and he said that they don't change starters there. I questioned him about that, asking what they do if someone comes in and says that they need a starter replaced, do they just tell them to go away? He said no, they just give them the price and they figure something else out.

The nearest Yamaha dealer is about 200 miles away in the Yukon Territory, so I guess I will be taking a ferry and road trip before next season to get the reflash done. It will probably be over $1,000 to make this trip, but if it means not having to replace the starter again, it might be worth it.

Good luck, I hope it goes smoother for you than it did for me.

 

[DS22-HuberWoodsME]

Sounds like what I had happen to mine early last season. I tried everything (relays, starter relay, fuses, checked tether, charged battery), and nothing. I jumped the starter relay and got nothing. I was hoping it wasn't the starter, but it was.

Huge pain to change the starter. A job I hope I never have to do again. As InRBigness stated, it can be done through the bottom access panel and the only thing you need to remove is the oil filter. I was real close to pulling the motor. I you have a friend with small hands, you may want to try to recruit them for this.

Ratchet wrenches are a must since a ratchet and socket don't fit in there. If I ever have to do this again, I'm going to cut the open end off of a ratchet wrench and weld an extension on it. I don't know if anyone makes an extended length ratchet wrench, but I couldn't find any. With the length of a standard ratchet wrench like I was using, I could only use my fingertips to turn it, and most of the time I could only get a click or two on the ratchet.

Once I got the starter out, I was wondering how in the hell I was going to get the bolts back in, because there's no room to work in there. I bought a set of long (about a foot long) needle nose pliers. I was able to get the bolts back into place with them, but getting the bolts started was another issue. Since there is no room to work, getting the starter to align with the threaded holes was a challenge. With pry bars, I was able to get it to line up and using a pry bar against the back side of the cooler, I was able to hold it in place while I cranked on it with a ratchet wrench and got it started.

It took me about four six hour days to do this. If I had to do it again, I think it would take about two days. It's an exercise in patience.

Probably the most frustrating part was getting the ground electrical connector on. Just when you think you have everything lined up and ready to go, everything springs apart and you have to start over again...and much cussing ensues.

I called Anchorage Yamaha to ask about getting my ECU reflashed as I read online that there was an update around 2018 that corrected the motor from kicking back and destroying the starter. I was hoping that I could mail it in since Anchorage is about 800 miles away, but the mechanic I spoke to said that I would need to bring the whole sled it to get this done.

I told him the story about my starter being destroyed, and he said that they don't change starters there. I questioned him about that, asking what they do if someone comes in and says that they need a starter replaced, do they just tell them to go away? He said no, they just give them the price and they figure something else out.

The nearest Yamaha dealer is about 200 miles away in the Yukon Territory, so I guess I will be taking a ferry and road trip before next season to get the reflash done. It will probably be over $1,000 to make this trip, but if it means not having to replace the starter again, it might be worth it.

Good luck, I hope it goes smoother for you than it did for me.

YIKES!
Luckily I have friend who will do it with confidence for cheap. I hate to say it, but the MTX has been replaced with a Summit, and now on the way to be traded in for a Can-am Maverick. Sure, was fun for a while tho!