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Nytro and Phazer Ball Joints


Got the order, Thanks! All the emails from the website bounced. Will get it out tomorrow and with any luck Canada Post will have to you by the week-end.
 
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving!

We will be unable to ship any orders until Tuesday, spending time with the relates this week-end. If I'm lucky, I'll still fit into my snow suit when I get back.....
 
I managed to push the ball right through the race while it was in the a-arm. It wasn't that worn out either. I think the race was seized in there pretty good. The other one had lots of slop and came out normally, so I used a cut-off wheel for that one. I see that they are lined with phenolic, or something similar. I got my ring set from NCI on Friday, now i'm waiting for my a-arms to come back from powdercoat. Thanks!!!!
 
Recently we have had feedback to indicate that there is significant variation in the width of the OEM ball joint races and also in the depth of the pocket of the a-arm. To address this we have made shims to fill the gap between the bronze rings and the snap rings. The shims are 0.005", 0.010" and 0.020" thick. Not all installations will require shims. For those that do it is our suggestion that you install the shim(s) needed between the lower bronze ring and the snap ring. DO NOT attempt to overfill the space with shims, leave a small gap to ensure proper seating of the snap ring and to allow the rings to carry a little grease.

It is my personal experience that the bronze rings will outlast, at least, the early versions of the OEM ball joints. However, I would not suggest that you replace OEM ball joints that are not showing wear. The bronze rings are meant to be an effective, lower cost option to use until Yamaha gets a handle on this issue, which I expect they will one day. Until then...

If you have purchased a bronze ring set we will send out shims to you shortly. If you have installed a ring set and are satisfied with the fit, please drop us a note so we can get the shims where they are needed first. Future orders will include two shims of each thickness.

One last thing, be aware that some have found it takes a lot to remove the OEM joint from the a-arm while others have had them almost drop out when the snap ring is removed. Consider your resources and commitment when you start the replacement process. In some cases you may need to remove the a-arms from the sled and have a shop press out the OEM units.
 
I just did this tonight before I read this post. I made a couple of shims out of .010" brass shim stock. I put it under the snap ring and it worked really well. No more play, but the ball still moved well. Thanks!
 
I have updated the site to reflect some developments regarding the Ball joint kits. the changes read as follows:

There is the possibility that you will need to add shim between the bottom ring and the c-clip due to manufacturing variations of the OEM control arms. The c-clip groove depth varies enough that some installers have a difficult time re-inserting the C-clip and others can add 0.020" of shim to keep it tight. Some customers have successfully used aluminum beverage cans or even just regular shim stock. Alternately, we are offering a copper shim pack containing 2 each of 0.005", 0.010" and 0.020" shims at our cost of $12 per pack. We are offering these as an option to keep the cost of the kit down and to allow the DIY'ers the chance to save the $12.
Click to expand...

I have emails out to all my previous customers to see if they need a shim pack, at no charge. New customers will have to decide if they can make their own or would rather buy some at the same time.
 
I got mine installed today.Very nice kit and beautiful machine work!
As I suspected one of my stockers was a very loose fit in the a-arm bore.Other was tight.I believe this is the reason stock ones wear out randomly.My loose fitting one was still tight at over 5000mi!Yamaha is not hitting the numbers on the bore size.Luckily we have these to replace OEM.It can be a simple throw it in and go job but to do it right and have perfect fit you need to use the shims and if like mine the a-arm bore is to big just use some scotch tape around the new races to take up the clearance.Mine took a piece about 1/2 way around to get the fit perfect.All the tape is doing is tightening up the race to bore clearance so the races dont spin when turning.Nice job guys and thank you for helping us out.
 
I haven't heard of the bore diameter being too big (or too small either) before. We do know now the bore depth is all over the map.

If you find the bore the be too large another solution would be to use a prick punch, and with the ring supported on the ball, GENTLY tap small divots evenly spaced on the OD of the upper ring. This will displace a small amount of material outward and effectively increase the diameter.

Don't try to make it work for big gaps, just the little gaps! It's probably not necessary to do this on the bottom ring because it's just going along for the ride.

After a few rides the upper rings may deform slightly to fill the bore, if the difference is not too great. When this happens the chance of spinning the ring in the bore will diminish. If you suspect spinning the ring will be a problem scribe a line on the top of the a-arm and onto the ring so any rotation can be monitored. You may consider going back an OEM joint in that loose bore if the rings continue to spin after a few rides.

BTW, I've used a shot of white litium grease from a spray can (because it's easy to apply) on mine every few rides, but any decent grease should help extend the service.

Thanks for the input.
 
These things are heading all over the northern hemisphere guys! We've sent some to Norway and Sweden.
 
Will they accidentally make them out of copper this time? :o| :o| :o|
 
Crewchief47 said:
SledToyz.com has more Kits in stock.
Click to expand...


Just finished my lower ball joints, great product and great service, it is hard to come by these days. I pressed the old rings off and required the .020" shim on both sides. Perfect fit, maybe .001"- .003" of play. Also did the uppers with new Yamaha ball joints. I don't have any upper A-Arm bushings yet and it's a shame to have all this done and the slop up top still.

Guys are these Bronze or Alum Nickel Bronze?


Thanks
 

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