arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the photos.
The material is designated 954. below is a brief description.
... aluminum-bronze alloy, Alloy 954 offers an ideal combination of high strength and corrosion resistance. It is heat treatable and performs well in applications such as pressure-bearing surfaces where strength, hardness, and high temperature resistance are a must.
The material is designated 954. below is a brief description.
... aluminum-bronze alloy, Alloy 954 offers an ideal combination of high strength and corrosion resistance. It is heat treatable and performs well in applications such as pressure-bearing surfaces where strength, hardness, and high temperature resistance are a must.
mytro
Expert
arteeex said:Thanks for the photos.
The material is designated 954. below is a brief description.
... aluminum-bronze alloy, Alloy 954 offers an ideal combination of high strength and corrosion resistance. It is heat treatable and performs well in applications such as pressure-bearing surfaces where strength, hardness, and high temperature resistance are a must.
I thought so. Bronze alone would be softer and deeper in color.. Thanks for the great product... Let's get some A_Arm bushings on the go!!!


Crewchief47
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Glad we could be of service!
More excellent products coming from NCI, especially the 'ThumbDrive' http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=94663



Crewchief47
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More Ball Joint kits in stock!


Mooseman
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I just did mine and it went really easy and didn't need any shims. I made some modifications to the procedures and the races themselves to add a zerk fitting to further extend the service life of these excellent races. With only 1800Km on the originals, one was pretty worn and the other not too far behind.
Maybe the only thing I would have done differently would be to drill and tap the hole in the A-arm with the new races installed without the ball. One of the zerks I installed is a bit loose because it can't extend enough into the race and have enough threads to properly grip in the A-arm. This would allow the zerk to really extend into the races, prevent rotation and flow grease.
Maybe the only thing I would have done differently would be to drill and tap the hole in the A-arm with the new races installed without the ball. One of the zerks I installed is a bit loose because it can't extend enough into the race and have enough threads to properly grip in the A-arm. This would allow the zerk to really extend into the races, prevent rotation and flow grease.
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Crewchief47
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Ahhh, the joys of watching the DIY crowd on the forums. Good job on those zerks!
BombaPolaYama
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Very neat work on the grease nipples. One question (as always playing Devil's advocate), Would they be exposed to possible impact from sticks, stumps, etc. being right at the tip of the A-arm like that, or are would they be tucked inside the spindle?

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BombaPolaYama said:Very neat work on the grease nipples. One question (as always playing Devil's advocate), Would they be exposed to possible impact from sticks, stumps, etc. being right at the tip of the A-arm like that, or are would they be tucked inside the spindle?
That's the first thing I thought of when I saw that. I think there was a guy that put his on the inside/bottom of the a-arm. That does look more prone to breaking off.


Mooseman
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Jeffz
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Nice. Didn't think it would sit in that far. Easy access, too!
BombaPolaYama
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Jeffz said:Nice. Didn't think it would sit in that far. Easy access, too!
Yeah, a pic is worth a thousand words. Looks well protected.

grizztracks
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Mooseman, flip the ski rubbers around so that the toes are forward and you'll get a little better rear ski pressure.
My ball joints are getting sloppy and I also may be adding zerks when I replace them. I've been looking for a seal or boot for both the upper and lower joints to help contain the grease and keep dirt out. I ordered seals from seals-it but they didn't fit.
My ball joints are getting sloppy and I also may be adding zerks when I replace them. I've been looking for a seal or boot for both the upper and lower joints to help contain the grease and keep dirt out. I ordered seals from seals-it but they didn't fit.


Mooseman
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Thanks for the rubbers tip. I have to get it to steer at all first by adjusting the strap up a hole or two.
Here's an idea for a seal. Look for a rack and pinion steering bellow that would be small on one end and the same diameter as the A-arm bore on the other. I used some for the old Safari but if you look at the picture, you'll see how it could work by cutting the end off. Just find a local rack and pinion rebuilder and ask if you could go through their supply of bellows to see if something could fit. I got them at $20 each.
Here's an idea for a seal. Look for a rack and pinion steering bellow that would be small on one end and the same diameter as the A-arm bore on the other. I used some for the old Safari but if you look at the picture, you'll see how it could work by cutting the end off. Just find a local rack and pinion rebuilder and ask if you could go through their supply of bellows to see if something could fit. I got them at $20 each.
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BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
grizztracks said:Mooseman, flip the ski rubbers around so that the toes are forward and you'll get a little better rear ski pressure.
.
Or add a set of Slydogs and it'll be like a new ride. No more sinking in soft trails and fighting the handlebars - the reduction in the steering effort is quite significant.
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BombaPolaYama said:Jeffz said:Nice. Didn't think it would sit in that far. Easy access, too!
Yeah, a pic is worth a thousand words. Looks well protected.
LOL give me one ride bet I would break them off

Hmm no one ever lets me ride there sleds....
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