revster
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rxrider said:When installing the driveshaft, this is how I do it.
With the shaft installed into the chaincase. Install the speedo side bearing and bearing cup, but do not tighten the set screws on the bearing. Install the chaincase gears and stuff, tighten down the bolt holding the gears to the shaft. Now, the drive shaft is set and cannot move. Tighten down the set screws. Remember, when you tighten down the bolt holding the gears in place inside the chain case you will pull the shaft over to the right, if the speedo side bearing is already installed you will put a lot of stress on the speedo side bearing. If the set screws don't give way the bearing will prematurely fail because of the pulling force on the bearing. See what I'm saying.
Yeah sounds like we use a similar method doing the chaincase side first to determine where the shaft sits. Thanks for the input
rxrider
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Just a heads up revster
just in case
revster
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rxrider said:Just a heads up revsterjust in case
Yeah a heads up is always welcome!
Have you got any intel on the jackshaft bearing. Is that sucker pressed on?
revster
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Well track and drivers are back it. I'll have to get my jackshaft bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on before I can finish the drive line.
sorenson1610
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revster said:Well track and drivers are back it. I'll have to get my jackshaft bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on before I can finish the drive line.
Whats involved in that? (removing the jackshaft that is) I'm going to be tearing mine down to put drivers, drive shaft bearing in. If need be ill replace that one too. Thanks revster
revster
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sorenson1610 said:revster said:Well track and drivers are back it. I'll have to get my jackshaft bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on before I can finish the drive line.
Whats involved in that? I'm going to be tearing mine down to put drivers, drive shaft bearing in. If need be ill replace that one too. Thanks revster
Well pulling the track isn't too bad on a Nytro. The biggest PITA is dealing with all of the parts in relation to the mechanical reverse. When taking the case apart not a bad idea to lay things out as they some out so have them in order to speed up putting it back together.
Once the case is torn down the drive shaft is easy to take out. 3 blot hold the mag side bearing on and 6 hold the PTO side. THe PTO side is cut away so you can pull the shaft down with the bearing still on it.
If you check back to pages 5-7 of this thread there are a few pics.
sorenson1610
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revster said:sorenson1610 said:revster said:Well track and drivers are back it. I'll have to get my jackshaft bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on before I can finish the drive line.
Whats involved in that? I'm going to be tearing mine down to put drivers, drive shaft bearing in. If need be ill replace that one too. Thanks revster
Well pulling the track isn't too bad on a Nytro. The biggest PITA is dealing with all of the parts in relation to the mechanical reverse. When taking the case apart not a bad idea to lay things out as they some out so have them in order to speed up putting it back together.
Once the case is torn down the drive shaft is easy to take out. 3 blot hold the mag side bearing on and 6 hold the PTO side. THe PTO side is cut away so you can pull the shaft down with the bearing still on it.
Ok Thanks I have the write up from the sticky section from ulmer. I was talking about the jack shaft, that is different then the drive shaft correct. I'm not sure if my bearing is bad on that one but if it is I would like to replace it when its down.
If you check back to pages 5-7 of this thread there are a few pics.
revster
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Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
sorenson1610
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revster said:Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Ok that's what I was looking for, I'm going to check it out this weekend. Can you heat that shaft or will that compromise it? Was yours bad or just pm? Luckily I have a press but not the bearing at this time. I'm guessing you can't button up the chaincase and be able to pull the jackshaft out yet or can you? Thanks for the help revster
revster
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sorenson1610 said:revster said:Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Ok that's what I was looking for, I'm going to check it out this weekend. Can you heat that shaft or will that compromise it? Was yours bad or just pm? Luckily I have a press but not the bearing at this time. I'm guessing you can't button up the chaincase and be able to pull the jackshaft out yet or can you? Thanks for the help revster
Just PM. My driveshaft felt a little rough but jackshaft wasn't too bad.
No I can't put the chaincase back together till I get the shaft back in. I would have had it done today but I'm landlocked with the truck in the shop.
I'm thinking a little heat on the inner race of the bearing wouldn't be that bad. I'm not sure how much heat it takes to cause the shaft damage.
sorenson1610
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revster said:sorenson1610 said:revster said:Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Ok that's what I was looking for, I'm going to check it out this weekend. Can you heat that shaft or will that compromise it? Was yours bad or just pm? Luckily I have a press but not the bearing at this time. I'm guessing you can't button up the chaincase and be able to pull the jackshaft out yet or can you? Thanks for the help revster
Just PM. My driveshaft felt a little rough but jackshaft wasn't too bad.
No I can't put the chaincase back together till I get the shaft back in. I would have had it done today but I'm landlocked with the truck in the shop.
I'm thinking a little heat on the inner race of the bearing wouldn't be that bad. I'm not sure how much heat it takes to cause the shaft damage.
Ok thats kinda what I thought about the chaincase. Hopefully its good or ill prob just regrease that one this year. Yeah I would think a little heat would work to loosen it up, then tap on it with a brass rod to get it off. Thanks for the prompt replies, really helpful
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I dont understand?revster said:Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Can you please take a picture of this circlip please i have also removed the shaft and i am going to change the drive wheels and change the bearings.
revster
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Tarzan said:I dont understand?revster said:Ah ok, yeah once the chaincase is apart all that is holding the jackshaft in is a housing on PTO side with two torx heads. Once you remove those the shaft slides out PTO/clutch side.
There is a circlip holding the housing on the bearing just like a boggy wheel. After you remove that the housing slides off the bearing; going towards the chaincase side of the shaft.
Then there is a circlip holding the bearing on the shaft to remove. This is where I am currently at. The bearing won't come off for me, and the guys on here have confirmed my suspicion that it is a press fit.
I don't have a press (no floor space for one) so I'm going to have to have it pressed off and a new one pressed on.
Can you please take a picture of this circlip please i have also removed the shaft and i am going to change the drive wheels and change the bearings.
I dropped in on some boys that took care of me today. Old bearing pressed off and new one pressed on! I will take photos as I put it back together.
Just a interesting fact for you guy's. The jackshaft can be removed and replaced without taking the chain case apart. Just remove your break rotor and spacers/washer slide it out and the gears will stay in place. I learned this with my Team conversion jack shaft and have had to swap it out in the field. Have done it multiple times. So both of your PTO side bearings can be replaced with no major tear downs. ![Div20 ;)! ;)!](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/div20.gif)
![Div20 ;)! ;)!](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/div20.gif)
revster
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rlcofmn said:Just a interesting fact for you guy's. The jackshaft can be removed and replaced without taking the chain case apart. Just remove your break rotor and spacers/washer slide it out and the gears will stay in place. I learned this with my Team conversion jack shaft and have had to swap it out in the field. Have done it multiple times. So both of your PTO side bearings can be replaced with no major tear downs.![]()
hmm, go to know.
I would have thought the spacer and sprocket would have fallen out of place.
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