Sno-Xr
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Thanks. Battery was new last season(Yuasa) and tested above its stated cca, and also meters out at 12.8-9 v sitting.
Mine idles and runs good until the glitch, then it definitely has a major voltage draw and starts the rough idle/miss. Also no excess voltage to the battery at that time.
Since completing the the tear down/ reassembly, added grounds and massaging of the wire harness, It hasnt thrown the codes. But then again, i only have about 100 x 100 foot area of melted snow/mud to test in.
But it did suddenly stall twice while sitting, no codes and started right up after. When I cycled the fuel pump one of the times, it (pump)barely ran and the display was flashing dimly....like it had low voltage. Bumped the starter and all was back to normal. F'n Demon gremlin!!
Mine idles and runs good until the glitch, then it definitely has a major voltage draw and starts the rough idle/miss. Also no excess voltage to the battery at that time.
Since completing the the tear down/ reassembly, added grounds and massaging of the wire harness, It hasnt thrown the codes. But then again, i only have about 100 x 100 foot area of melted snow/mud to test in.
But it did suddenly stall twice while sitting, no codes and started right up after. When I cycled the fuel pump one of the times, it (pump)barely ran and the display was flashing dimly....like it had low voltage. Bumped the starter and all was back to normal. F'n Demon gremlin!!
Last edited:
4strokes
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run pump from separate battery direct and see if it still happens. harness or pump?Thanks. Battery was new last season(Yuasa) and tested above its stated cca, and also meters out at 12.8-9 v sitting.
Mine idles and runs good until the glitch, then it definitely has a major voltage draw and starts the rough idle/miss. Also no excess voltage to the battery at that time.
Since completing the the tear down/ reassembly, added grounds and massaging of the wire harness, It hasnt thrown the codes. But then again, i only have about 100 x 100 foot area of melted snow/mud to test in.
But it did suddenly stall twice while sitting, no codes and started right up after. When I cycled the fuel pump one of the times, it (pump)barely ran and the display was flashing dimly....like it had low voltage. Bumped the starter and all was back to normal. F'n Demon gremlin!!
Sno-Xr
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Unfortunately it is a random thing, also, it was t just the pump, the display fluttered like it didnt have enough amperage. I bumped the starter(w/key) without starting it, and all went back to normal. Maybe all my problems are as simple as being a bad ignition switch? Would make sense for most of my glitches
grizztracks
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The connector to the ignition switch has been known to get a white film on the prongs causing a poor connection. Even if it looks ok clean it and apply dielectric grease. How about the starter relay causing problems The ignition power comes from a jumper in the starter relay and feeds the 10 amp ignition fuse.
Sno-Xr
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Starter relay is new, I even tried the old one to be sure I didnt have a defective new one. I will check the ignition connector
Thanks for all the ideas, very much appreciated!
Thanks for all the ideas, very much appreciated!
Sno-Xr
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After the rectifier/regulator, any idea what would stop charging voltage to the battery? When my original issue happens(codes and rough running) the voltage drops at the battery, so what ever is going on is a major draw or complete shut down of current.
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grizztracks
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Hard to believe there is a major draw because all circuits are fused to protect them. The starter is the only component that has no protection and also has the largest draw on the battery. What you describe would make me go directly to the Stator, Rect/Reg and battery for possible problems. You may want to swap out the battery just to eliminate it as the cause. I know you believe it's good but I've had batteries act up periodically due to a bad cell and they appear to check and work OK. Disconnecting the stator and regulator doesn't verify if they are good or bad. If the stator resistances are in spec (not always an accurate test) the next step for a charging issue would be to replace the reg/rect.
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I would try and get it to show the dim display as you said and try volt meter while its dim and start at battery, if that shows good, check voltages at fuses and switch connector etc. if you can test it while its acting up, you should be able to trace it to where the drop is. most logical to be the switch or a rotted connector etc. if your lucky, you will hear or smell it, maybe wiggle connectors etc.
grizztracks
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The fact that the voltage drops indicates to me that the regulator isn't compensating properly or it has a faulty stator. The regulator is there to maintain a voltage greater than the resting battery voltage. With the engine running any load on the battery should be compensated for by the regulator so there should not be voltage drops. The other possibility for voltage drops would be a faulty battery. To test individual circuits for amperage draws a clamp on amp meter is your best tool. You can pull all the relays except for the fuel relay to see how it responds.
4strokes
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he said it happened without running, to me, that means the stator and regulator have nothing to do with it, I would go straight to the battery and check for voltage drop while cycling pump and watching display for dim lights. if its not at the battery, work towards switch etc.
Sno-Xr
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Hmmm, sounds like an excuse to buy a new tool!! Lol. My original thoughts were Stator or regulator. Installed a known good regulator and had the same random issue. The stator I ruled out because I had both conditions with it unplgged and a fully charged battery.......wanna sled???
Sno-Xr
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Headed to the TY Giveaway ride tomorrow . May see if any of TY crew has a known good ignition switch I use to testhe said it happened without running, to me, that means the stator and regulator have nothing to do with it, I would go straight to the battery and check for voltage drop while cycling pump and watching display for dim lights. if its not at the battery, work towards switch etc.
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that's not how I work. If you can get it to act up in front of you, a coupe of voltage tests and you will "know" what the problem is. When I see people throw parts at something, a lot of the time they create other problems and blurr the original symptoms. Then when finally looked at by the mechanic, takes way longer. I would exhaust all testing before doing anything. and even then, one thing at a time. I have been meaning to get a couple of voltage led probes, so you can pick a few test points and ride with them taped to the bars. when you see it drop on one and not the other, it clues you in real quick.
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dang it. if you would have told me you needed an ign i have one in the truck from a rx with the key in it. heard a few times that some one remebered everything but the keys when they left to go sledding.
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dang it. if you would have told me you needed an ign i have one in the truck from a rx with the key in it. heard a few times that some one remebered everything but the keys when they left to go sledding.
Which is why I have a spare key hidden on everything I own. Sleds are probably the easiest to hide an easy to access key on.
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