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Oil change issue


I was doing my phazer last night for the first time. I always had my dealer do them while it was under warranty.

I cannot believe how tight some of those metric allen head bolts can be! I have some nice T-handle allen wrenches and some heavy L-shaped allen wrenches. I could not budge the crankcase drain!

I broke down and bought a set of Metric Allen sockets today. I hope I can put some leverage on that crankcase drain without snapping the allen wrench. What a pain in the #*$&@.

Of course, the oil cooler is not much better. They are tight and little room to work. The socket will be easier to get those out with.

After doing the Apex the night before and now the Phazer, I'm almost to that point that I understand why the dealer gets $150/sled for oil changes. I'm not quite there yet, and happy to pocket the $200.

Glad the beer fridge in the garage is stocked, as the foul language is flowing.
 
There's an oil cooler on Phazers?
 
Not quite sure how you would get the filter out without moving it. I had a strap oil filter wrench as well and it had to go. Now, if you had one of those filter-cap wrenches, then it may be done that way.

All in all, it's a pain. I never did get my crankcase drain plug out even with the new sockets. It's stripped now, and there for good.

All I know is that after draining the oil tank, filter and cooler, I was able to put in over 2.5quarts, so that tells me I got 95% of the oil out and a fresh filter. I will call that good.

With the right tools, this job is very doable. I'm just pissed that I trashed that crankcase drain before getting the right tools. I would have never imagined that thing could be in there that tight. It's the same exact one as my Apex, and it came out fine.

Good luck guys!

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The crank drain on one of my Phazer's has not been out since I have owned it. I have 3/8 drive Allan socket's and I quit trying due to being afraid of stripping it out, somthing was going to give and I figured it wouldn't be good. I also always put a film of grease on my filter O ring's before I install. Seams to keep it from locking.
 
first year i had my phazer i stripped the crank drain bolt ended up using a hammer and chisel to get the butter bolt out then installed a honda fourwheeler crank drain bolt
 
biffdotorg said:
Not quite sure how you would get the filter out without moving it. I had a strap oil filter wrench as well and it had to go. Now, if you had one of those filter-cap wrenches, then it may be done that way.

I changed my filter and got it out witout removing the cooler, It's a tight fit but you can navigate it up besides the oilcooler, you just need to get a good grip of it and use a screwdriver to angle it just right.. It's a 2 minute job that on the phazer takes 20 minutes and 18 of those minutes involve cussing...
 
Bringing back an old thread.

Just an additional note for anybody that finds this thread later on;

I just got done getting better acquainted with my 2013 Phazer MTX during it's first (break in) oil change. I went with the KN-147 filter this time, but will probably go with an OEM filter the next time. The length of the KN-147 (the added "nut") on it, did not allow me to fish the filter past the oil cooler, or a sensor (I believe it may be the oil sensor) and the frame. So, I had to unbolt the oil cooler, lift it up and out of the bay to sneak the KN-147 in there. After that, it went real easy! :drink:

Lessons learned for me;

1) BEFORE you even start, go get a good quality allen wrench set, and a large pair of channel lock pliers! I'm going to go get a set of the 3/8" drive type allen wrenches for the next time I go after the filter.

2) The proper loc-tite. My bottle of "Blue" Loc-Tite was dried up, so I'm taking a chance and going to run with the original stuff for the oil cooler. The fasteners seemed to have a good amount of tension on them when I was spinning them back it. I don't know if the "Blue" Loc-Tite is the proper stuff, but it's typically what I keep on hand.

3) I may take up the Japanese language so that the machine will release it's secrets! :drink: It wasn't responding to well to my cussing.

4) To the Japanese assembly employee at the Yamaha plant; "Why is the engine drain plug so tight that it MUST be holding the entire machine together!"??? WHY! ;):D For crying out loud!:o| :o| This goes back to number 1, see above. The drain plug stayed put, I hope I left enough material in the hex to get it next time, with the high quality wrench.

Now, I'm going to go flip through here and find the electric face shield wiring to make my tap for power.

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KN-147. Removal problem solved. I put one on last year, cranked it down tight too. The 17MM welded nut on it makes it a breeze to remove. Getting it out is a bit trickier, but can be done. I replace it every season.
 
My 07 phazer fx drain bolt was so soft had stripped out the head trying to get it out the first time. In the end with a chisle to get it out and a Honda hex head oil drain bolt installed instead
 
My sump drain plug has been sporting a broken screw extractor for 2 years after trying to remove it. I got it the first year, but I guess I may have over tightened it. Head stripped. I was tempted at taking my hand held impact and hammer to it but opted not to. A cracked lower case is not what I need. I figured that the 6 oz. of oil in there was not worth the risk. If Yamaha says you can leave a filter on for 20,000km, which I replace every season, what's 6% remaining dirty oil going to do?
 
We just changed oil and filter in an 07 last night. The oil was black and I don't think the filter had ever been taking off. Has 1900 miles on it. I used a large screwdriver and hammered it into the filter and it broke free pretty easy. I hand tightened the new one on. There isn't really a way to get a tool on there to loosen or tighten it up. No room at all. The 2014 Phazer XTX is next.
 


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