Ndoggct
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hello just started my sled for the first time and actually let get to operating temp and I notice my oil on the view tube looks a weird slight milky color to me. Is this normal for it to look whiteish on break in? Thx

ROCKERDAN
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Is it tiny bubbles? I see those typically.
Ndoggct
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yes there where bubbles too

KnappAttack
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Don't keep starting it. Wait for snow and go break it in hard to seat the rings if you want it to go.
You must run it a long while to burn off the moisture anyway.
You must run it a long while to burn off the moisture anyway.
Ndoggct
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Ya I’m guessing maybe it is that color from a break in oil I’m just not used to seeing the oil that color this is my first 4 stroke
Thank you
Thank you
Mototown
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If sits over night & the oil isn't clear golden brown , u have water in it
Ndoggct
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Ok thxIf sits over night & the oil isn't clear golden brown , u have water in it
Sled is brand spankin new maybe started 5 times tops


I remember seeing that. I think its the assembly lube. Like they all said break it in hard and dump it at 500mi.
kmkm
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keep your eye on the coolant level,we had one put antifreeze in oil through faulty oil cooler, oil was milky brown at 500k.
Fast
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Mike you say break them in hard can you elaborate on this since I'm typically on and off the throttle never hold it at 1 speed or wide open for more than 3 seconds ,all after running under 40 miles an hour on and off the throttle to break in the belt for 30 milesDon't keep starting it. Wait for snow and go break it in hard to seat the rings if you want it to go.
You must run it a long while to burn off the moisture anyway.

KnappAttack
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Mike you say break them in hard can you elaborate on this since I'm typically on and off the throttle never hold it at 1 speed or wide open for more than 3 seconds ,all after running under 40 miles an hour on and off the throttle to break in the belt for 30 miles
Lots of full throttle bursts to seat the rings after the engine has been warmed up and at operating temp. I actually break a snowmobile engine in harder than I'd actually ride it normally. Screw the belt, or put an old on on, break the rings in hard!
Read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Or don't do a "hard break-in" and follow Yamaha's recommendations.
Matt, the guy who does "the Workshop" Youtube channel is an engineer and knows his stuff.
He's done other videos on hard break-ins if you want to look into the subject.
At the end of the day, who do you trust, the manufacturer who warranties their products and has a reputation to uphold or some dude on the internet who doesn't have any skin in the game if something goes south down the line?
Ski-Doo cares enough that they force you to follow their break-in procedures (on newer fuel-injected models) by programming the ECU to do a soft break-in by limiting the engine RPM until it's broken in.
Matt, the guy who does "the Workshop" Youtube channel is an engineer and knows his stuff.
He's done other videos on hard break-ins if you want to look into the subject.
At the end of the day, who do you trust, the manufacturer who warranties their products and has a reputation to uphold or some dude on the internet who doesn't have any skin in the game if something goes south down the line?
Ski-Doo cares enough that they force you to follow their break-in procedures (on newer fuel-injected models) by programming the ECU to do a soft break-in by limiting the engine RPM until it's broken in.

KnappAttack
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Break it in however you want. I'll use the way all the VERY BEST engine builders in the world tell you how to do it, and that's not easy or by the Yamaha manual. I'll trust The hard break-in. I've seen first hand the added power it makes and the condition of the engines from easy to hard break-in. The manual might tell you one thing, but Yamaha R&D, Engineers and testing personal will tell you something completely different. I've ridden with them and know many of them first hand. Heavy throttle loads rings and seals them better and makes for less blowby and better cylinder leakdown numbers, which simply makes MORE power and adds longevity to the engine. No added wear or ill effects to an engine with hard break-in. Theres no way a MFGR company is going to tell you to go flog on it hard. Can you imagine the lawsuits if/when people get hurt from riding over their heads if a MFGR told you "break it in hard"?
Also, You have it wrong about Ski-Doo. Ski-Doo does not limit the RPM. They just inject more fuel, oil and run a bit of reduced timing for guys that hold them and never let off.
These engines come off the assembly line and get run WFO to help with ring seating FYI. To help a little bit for the guys who baby them by breaking in by the manual. It's proven that if they are run too easy the rings will never seat and form a decent seal.
Also, You have it wrong about Ski-Doo. Ski-Doo does not limit the RPM. They just inject more fuel, oil and run a bit of reduced timing for guys that hold them and never let off.
These engines come off the assembly line and get run WFO to help with ring seating FYI. To help a little bit for the guys who baby them by breaking in by the manual. It's proven that if they are run too easy the rings will never seat and form a decent seal.

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Broke mine in running up and down the lake one end to the other wide open.


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Im a break em in hard guy myself
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