My First SideWinder Problem

[jonlafon1]

hard to imagine the oil weight caused this? I say no way

 

[72Gran]

I only run 0w40 in my sled. You never know when it’s -35 and it’s gotta start!

Rode with a viper 2 years ago and it was -37. It also pushed oil out the filter gasket then re-sealed once warmed up.

 

[sideshowBob]

hard to imagine the oil weight caused this? I say no way

Yes I don't think the oil weight had anything to do with the leak either...I think it was just ready to start to leak and the temperature extreme triggered it.

 

[sideshowBob]

I installed the BOP oil tank gasket this morning. I have the removeable lower panels so the job was very quick and easy. There was no need to remove the exhaust and I just drained all the oil right at the tank.
The inside of the oil tank was spotless but the screen had quite a few small rtv particles but not enough to hinder oil flow at all.
I added a washer under every torx screw fastener as the hole depths are marginal for the length of the screws and I wonder if they are actually bottoming out when tightened down which definitely would explain why the mating surface develops leaks.
The whole job took less then two hours and so far so good.

 

[Simplespeed]

Whatever the Yamaha Lube is 0w20 is what I run. Do you think your line was froze and blocked and built pressure to blow the seal or could it been so contracted from cold it weaken the thin bond ??? These oil tanks are put together in warm factory temperature and at 34 below Iam sure there is excess shrinkage … at that temperature the parts are at smallest point and only grow as they are warmed.. Your installation of washers is on point if they are bottoming out and good job for finding that in Cat DNA.. Lol

 

[Kuzzy]

I installed the BOP oil tank gasket this morning. I have the removeable lower panels so the job was very quick and easy. There was no need to remove the exhaust and I just drained all the oil right at the tank.
The inside of the oil tank was spotless but the screen had quite a few small rtv particles but not enough to hinder oil flow at all.
I added a washer under every torx screw fastener as the hole depths are marginal for the length of the screws and I wonder if they are actually bottoming out when tightened down which definitely would explain why the mating surface develops leaks.
The whole job took less then two hours and so far so good.

I felt that there was a possibility the screws were bottoming out as well, but just a gut feeling

 

[sideshowBob]

Whatever the Yamaha Lube is 0w20 is what I run. Do you think your line was froze and blocked and built pressure to blow the seal or could it been so contracted from cold it weaken the thin bond ??? These oil tanks are put together in warm factory temperature and at 34 below Iam sure there is excess shrinkage … at that temperature the parts are at smallest point and only grow as they are warmed.. Your installation of washers is on point if they are bottoming out and good job for finding that in Cat DNA.. Lol

No way line was frozen as has been said I think the cold temps and start up broke the factory bond.
It was bound to happen sooner or later I am glad it happened at home.

 

[Motorhead]

Last year was my first year of using the non Yamaha oils.
Use to be 0/30 semi syn, then they changed to 0/40 full syn!

I used Mobil 1 5/30 full syn last year for first time. I also had my first engine oil leak at the end of last season.
My 5 year warranty took care of it so I am back to what the dealer put in it, Yamalube 0/40 full syn!

It was due to happen!

 

[Turboflash]

I've fixed a number of sleds that had engine oil leaks right where the 90 deg elbow fitting goes into bottom of oil tank. Screws were too long for depth of holes (or, holes were too shallow). To fix, I just put a thick washer on screws.
Seems to be a Cat DNA issue again.

 

[sideshowBob]

I've fixed a number of sleds that had engine oil leaks right where the 90 deg elbow fitting goes into bottom of oil tank. Screws were too long for depth of holes (or, holes were too shallow). To fix, I just put a thick washer on screws.
Seems to be a Cat DNA issue again.

I had read an old post of you mentioning the screws bottoming out so I also checked them and seems as though there is little to no margin left for length of fasteners on all of them

 

[SumpBuster]

Mine started seeping in the fall,warm weather. Saw a spot on the floor. Put the BOP gasket in 300 miles ago,seems fine except a slight smell like rubber from the hot exhaust side,but goes away quick. Riding normal, or slow like doo sleds..lol...never a smell. Running hard, hedgerow to hedgerow but no real high speeds, smells when you stop. Gets pretty hot in there.

 

[Kuzzy]

Mine started seeping in the fall,warm weather. Saw a spot on the floor. Put the BOP gasket in 300 miles ago,seems fine except a slight smell like rubber from the hot exhaust side,but goes away quick. Riding normal, or slow like doo sleds..lol...never a smell. Running hard, hedgerow to hedgerow but no real high speeds, smells when you stop. Gets pretty hot in there.

THAT IS WHAT I SMELL!!!!!! thanks for this, thought i was going nuts

 

[Turboflash]

Not sure what he makes gasket out of but that close to muffler, IMO it should be high-temp silicone. Most withstand up to about 425F.

 

[SumpBuster]

THAT IS WHAT I SMELL!!!!!! thanks for this, thought i was going nuts

I am nuts!!! lol

 

[SumpBuster]

Not sure what he makes gasket out of but that close to muffler, IMO it should be high-temp silicone. Most withstand up to about 425F.

Theres no evidence of burning, and it isnt a 100% rubber smell, but something wierd, not gas,not oil, not coolant. Just looked, everything looks fine, hoses, pipe, gasket. Must be when it gets really hot it smells.