simonzsayz
Extreme
Well I've decided to do the oil change tonight. Pulled my belly protector, belly pan, drained the oil from the engine drain plug and engine oil tank, simple enough. Can't find the filter. Call my dealer. He say's "honestly I havn't done one, should be on the front get it from the underside". Back under the sled I go this time with a flashlight. I can see it, can't touch it, dont think I can get a wrench on it and God help me geting the new one started right, if I ever got it off from the bottom. Pull the clutch cover -no help. Pull the front stuff to try it from the front. Aircleener screen-dead end. Nothing in the manual. I guess I'll have to pull the windshied, headlight cover, uper and middle side cover, and tank cover so I can remove the airbox and maybe then I'll get to it. I'm not joking. Can anybody give me a shortcut? Please don't tell me to let the dealer do it. I suspect when they get all the sleds coming in for 500 mile check-ups the oil will be changed the filters will stay. Who's gonna know if it wasn't changed you can't even see it. I'm a little frustrated, sorry. Hope I never have to check the plugs!!
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
simonzsayz said:Well I've decided to do the oil change tonight. Pulled my belly protector, belly pan, drained the oil from the engine drain plug and engine oil tank, simple enough. Can't find the filter. Call my dealer. He say's "honestly I havn't done one, should be on the front get it from the underside". Back under the sled I go this time with a flashlight. I can see it, can't touch it, dont think I can get a wrench on it and God help me geting the new one started right, if I ever got it off from the bottom. Pull the clutch cover -no help. Pull the front stuff to try it from the front. Aircleener screen-dead end. Nothing in the manual. I guess I'll have to pull the windshied, headlight cover, uper and middle side cover, and tank cover so I can remove the airbox and maybe then I'll get to it. I'm not joking. Can anybody give me a shortcut? Please don't tell me to let the dealer do it. I suspect when they get all the sleds coming in for 500 mile check-ups the oil will be changed the filters will stay. Who's gonna know if it wasn't changed you can't even see it. I'm a little frustrated, sorry. Hope I never have to check the plugs!!
you have to take the headlight pod off, take the air cleaner apart, when you get the cover off the air cleaner, there are 3 black plug's, take them out, you'll see 3 allen head's, i believe there 4mm?, underneath that there's the filter, just take your time with it i had the whole thing apart in 20 min.
simonzsayz
Extreme
sounds good. I just pulled the black panel from behind the bumper area. I see the rascal, still can't get my hands on 'er. light, airbox allen screws wall-ah I going back out to give it a try. thanks very much
simonzsayz
Extreme
Well the headlights hanging off the right side, the airbox is out, after removing several Denso ellecrtric gizmo's, the oil breather from the oil tank, valve cover breather hose, the tinyest screw retainer clips from the headlight adjuster screws, etc. 12 inch channel locks won't loosen the filter! It's about to crush, tare or both. The motor mount bolt that is by the idle adjustment screw is out! I found the washer and nut in the pan below the secondary clutch. there's a threaded "bushing" that goes into the "sidewall" between the clutch and engine compartments thats totaly backed out and I'm thinking it needs to go back in. If I put pliers on it the threads will get wrecked, puting it in properly will reqiure removing both clutches and the sidewall thing and it apears the driveshaft bearing on this side might be mounted to this sidewall too! I'm Alittle bummed out right now. All I wanted to do was change the oil and oil filter, Now I've gotta hope my dealer can fix this thing at the busyiest time of the season. Crud!
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
yep, you found it, looks like you killed the filter too, a local auto part store didn't have a filter wrench? well at least you know how to do it, the dealer should fix the bushing problem, i wouldn't touch that, but get the new filter on before you go there
simonzsayz
Extreme
I got the little sucker out. Got the new one in. Note to others, turn steering slightly to the right to give more clearence taking it out bottom, couldn't finagel it through the top. Not sure a propper filter wrench would fit in there either. Got it with the channells. Very carefully tightened the new filter, hope it doesn't leak. The threaded bushing might be an adjustable spacer between the motor and sidewall. I think it allows the motormount to be tightened without pulling to hard and possably breaking the sidewall "ear". gotta call the mechanic tomarrow but seeing as he hasn't done an oil change yet, I bet I know more than him about the phazer so far. I'm sure he's gonna love working on them. Definatly an engineers sled. So I'm thinking loctite the motormount nut, put 'er back together and run 'er. good luck everybody! Thanks for the tips SharkMan
swamps
Extreme
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2006
- Messages
- 98
So it looks like it won't be as easy as changing the oil on the car
Have to agree by the pictures definatly looks like an engineer sled!!
Have to agree by the pictures definatly looks like an engineer sled!!
Here in Sweden there is a service bulletin out for that engine mount. Its supposed to be tightend to 40nm if i remember correctly. The bolt had come loose and got in to the primary clutch on an FX.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
simonzsayz said:I got the little sucker out. Got the new one in. Note to others, turn steering slightly to the right to give more clearence taking it out bottom, couldn't finagel it through the top. Not sure a propper filter wrench would fit in there either. Got it with the channells. Very carefully tightened the new filter, hope it doesn't leak. The threaded bushing might be an adjustable spacer between the motor and sidewall. I think it allows the motormount to be tightened without pulling to hard and possably breaking the sidewall "ear". gotta call the mechanic tomarrow but seeing as he hasn't done an oil change yet, I bet I know more than him about the phazer so far. I'm sure he's gonna love working on them. Definatly an engineers sled. So I'm thinking loctite the motormount nut, put 'er back together and run 'er. good luck everybody! Thanks for the tips SharkMan
did you make sure the rubber "o" ring came off with the filter?
simonzsayz
Extreme
The o ring was stuck to the motor. I peeled it off and lubed the new one and the motor surface too. Talked to my Yami mechanic today. He say's don't mess with the spacer thing. Just loctite the nut and tighten it up. So I'm feeling better. It'll go faster next time now that I know how to get the body and airbox off. Spark plugs still scaring me. Looks like the Tank would have to come off to get there. Rediculous! But hopefully in two weeks I be riding the UP and adding nothing but gas and smiles to get the miles! Thanks again for the help. Not sure if I would have pulled the ruber plugs had you not mentioned that.SharkAttak said:did you make sure the rubber "o" ring came off with the filter?
simonzsayz
Extreme
GypsyRoots said:THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE PANEL IS RIVETED, YEAH! RIVETED!!! Its a flimsy piece of plastic and serves no structure. I will probably attemp to get to the filter this way, but first I will try to find some large area black POP-RIVETS!!!!
I'm not sure if that panel needs to come off. The key is the airbox. My airbox had a oil tank breather(big hose on bottom), Valve cover breather(or some small hose going to the valve cover), A two wire quick connect, and a bracket mounted with 3 allens holding on some denso ellectric things. I didn't get into any antifreeze. I pulled a black rectangular panel off from behind the bumper area and the rivits are not like pop rivets. You can stick them back in if you don't wreck'em. They are ribbed or something to hold themselves in. But that panel didn't help other than giving me visability to look for leaks after I restarted it. Like sharkman Say's there's three rubber plugs that need to come off that allow you to access the allens holding the airbox to the throttle bodies. Then just wiggle it out. Good luck
simonzsayz
Extreme
EsonPZ said:Here in Sweden there is a service bulletin out for that engine mount. Its supposed to be tightend to 40nm if i remember correctly. The bolt had come loose and got in to the primary clutch on an FX.
That's what happened to mine. No apparent dammage only some scrapes to the inside of the side pannel from the lack of clearence when the nut got slung around. I heard it go through, I thought it was a piece of ice in the belt area. Glad I'm doing the filter or I wouldn't have noticed. Thanks for the torque specs.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
someone will post a step by step way of changing it like they did with the apex/attak
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Looks like this sled will be a good candidate for a filter relocation kit.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
You could probably use some of the parts manufactured for the relocation kit for the RX-1 I bet they use the same filter. If you get this done it would be a good addition to the write up's for the tech section. You may just win with this entry once done & tested.
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