Bullnerd
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- Aug 23, 2013
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Doh! I had a friend leave his IR gun at my house and I told him I didnt need it so he took it back!
I need to get one myself. Although not having finger prints might come in handy
Bullnerd
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Tried the new ECM, same issue.
Installed the wires for the grip warmer, cycled the rest of the self diagnostic funtions. Nothing appears to be bad. Coils fire ok, injector relays fire ok, Pressure sensors check ok. Cleared all the stored codes(from cranking with stuff disconected).
If I crank it, its tries to start but doesnt. So if I do this a couple times the pipes start to heat up. #1 pipe(black/rich plug) gets very hot, real quick. #2 pipe, I can put my hand on it no problem, even after a couple of cranks.
So i did a quick test with starter fluid. Spray both TBs and it starts right up,idles for a few seconds and dies. Both pipes heat up the same.
No codes during any of the starting tests.
If I open the throttle slightly, it will run, but still bogs, and will not idle.
Only sensor I have not tested is the water temp sensor. I guess I should test it to make sure but I doubt it would be affecting one cylinder.
Installed the wires for the grip warmer, cycled the rest of the self diagnostic funtions. Nothing appears to be bad. Coils fire ok, injector relays fire ok, Pressure sensors check ok. Cleared all the stored codes(from cranking with stuff disconected).
If I crank it, its tries to start but doesnt. So if I do this a couple times the pipes start to heat up. #1 pipe(black/rich plug) gets very hot, real quick. #2 pipe, I can put my hand on it no problem, even after a couple of cranks.
So i did a quick test with starter fluid. Spray both TBs and it starts right up,idles for a few seconds and dies. Both pipes heat up the same.
No codes during any of the starting tests.
If I open the throttle slightly, it will run, but still bogs, and will not idle.
Only sensor I have not tested is the water temp sensor. I guess I should test it to make sure but I doubt it would be affecting one cylinder.
Bullnerd
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Damn! I just noticed over 1200 views! Thanks again to the guys that tried to help. I thought for sure someone here would nail it quick. Must be more riders than mechanics.
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- Winnipeg, Manitoba
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- Snowmobile
- 2009 Phazer RTX
You defiantly have a tough one, but I am sure it will get ironed out.
So it seems to me like its a fuel delivery problem. It might have been mentioned before but did you try swapping the injectors to see if the problem switches sides?
Did you have a chance to check the things Cannondale mentioned on the 6th post of page 3?
So it seems to me like its a fuel delivery problem. It might have been mentioned before but did you try swapping the injectors to see if the problem switches sides?
Did you have a chance to check the things Cannondale mentioned on the 6th post of page 3?
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- 2009 Phazer RTX
Bullnerd said:Damn! I just noticed over 1200 views! Thanks again to the guys that tried to help. I thought for sure someone here would nail it quick. Must be more riders than mechanics.
I think a lot of people are curious as to what the solution was when you find it .
Bullnerd
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I did not check the resistance in the injector wires yet,I ran out of time today looking for some really small pins to fit into the connector. That will be next. And yes, it does seem to be a fuel problem.I did swap the injectors, no difference. But if I swap the wire, the problem stays with the wire.(injector harness)
I will definately post the solution if I ever find it.
I will definately post the solution if I ever find it.
You have narrowed it down to just the injector wire to the cylinder that is NOT getting hot. Now it should be simple matter of using a Ohmeter to find the resistance and eliminate it. When you find it your problem is solved. Dont forget the plugs and pins on both ends of the wire also.
Bullnerd
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Thanks Cannondale. I gotta say your posative attitude really helps! This thing is really getting on my nerves now and it makes it much easier to continue working on it when I read posts like this.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
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Failure is not an option. Collectively we should be able to figure it out!
rat4020
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Mooseman said:Failure is not an option. Collectively we should be able to figure it out!
Mooseman lookin at yer avitor and readin your post . I Belive ya 100%
You bet. We dont quit. Think about it. The wiring,ecu and all the things in our sleds that it takes a computer genius to understand and we just used a method for checking a cylinder that was probably used by farmers in the 20's to check whether their steam tractor was working properly. All it takes is persistence, a open mind and the good old basics to solve most problems. Bullnerd you got it and it will be very rewarding for both you and I when your buggy is running right.
Bullnerd
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"You have narrowed it down to just the injector wire to the cylinder that is NOT getting hot"
You nailed it Mr Cannondale!(notice i use Mr. now)
I pulled the #1 plug and injector harness, no run, not even a pop.
Pulled the #2 injector harness and plug and it starts right up on #1 cyl. (black plug)
Back out to try to follow the wires.
You nailed it Mr Cannondale!(notice i use Mr. now)
I pulled the #1 plug and injector harness, no run, not even a pop.
Pulled the #2 injector harness and plug and it starts right up on #1 cyl. (black plug)
Back out to try to follow the wires.
Bullnerd
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Not sure if this means anything but,they are not the same.(resistance in injector wires)
I clipped my ground lead onto the main ground for the EFI.
Meter set on 20m
CYL.1
red/black .04
red/blue 4.7
Cyl.2
green/black 5.0
red/blue 4.7
Is the green/black 5.0 too high? Cyl.2 is the problem.
I clipped my ground lead onto the main ground for the EFI.
Meter set on 20m
CYL.1
red/black .04
red/blue 4.7
Cyl.2
green/black 5.0
red/blue 4.7
Is the green/black 5.0 too high? Cyl.2 is the problem.
That green/black wire has a issue in its circuit. Lot of times it can just be the pins at the ECU or at the Speedo. They can get bent easily.
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