Primary Clutch Change

[fasteddie15x]

Don't be fooled by a vector. My father inlaw has a 2014 vector and I have a 2014 Viper LTX and when mine was stock he drove right by me on top end, talk about embarrassing. I drove his vector and on a hard packed trail it will do 100mph.

I will be trying the COTC next weekend. I currently have Ulmer trail package #4 and it is a big improvement but I still think it could be better.

 

[superb]

Got it. I didnt know you were modded. Yes I think 90mph on hardpack is slow. I am in almost same boat. Next stupid question. Are you sure it was a Vector and not a Apex that drove right by you?

I own three Vector LTX'S and one that passed me was driven by my daughter. She is still laughing about it.

 

[TD Max]

What I am finding with mine is that the pockets that the spider pads ride in are getting scratches and tiny burrs. I can polish with 400 then 600 grit, blow it all out and it tends to want to return.

I managed to work my 400 paper between the pad and the pocket (grit side to the pad) and worked it a bit and it seems to be sliding better and less recurring marks, but I think in the big picture I really should have the dealer spin the primary apart so I can polish and inspect the area where the pads are parking as well.

 

[putz21]

I noticed mine are pretty scratched too TD! It looks like it's digging right in and making channels. Didn't think that looked right to me. When I was looking over my primary this past weekend, not only did I see those scratches, my OPO primary spring was all scrapped (paint missing) on 2 or 3 coils on the outside so it must be scrapping something. If I remember correctly, when I changed my weights out last time when I had the primary cover off, I noticed it wasn't that easy to push the clutch in/out.

 

[titanrcr]

What I am finding with mine is that the pockets that the helix pads ride in are getting scratches and tiny burrs. I can polish with 400 then 600 grit, blow it all out and it tends to want to return.

I managed to work my 400 paper between the pad and the pocket (grit side to the pad) and worked it a bit and it seems to be sliding better and less recurring marks, but I think in the big picture I really should have the dealer spin the primary apart so I can polish and inspect the area where the pads are parking as well.

Confused by this post, Helix has no pads or pockets. Sounds like your talking about the primary and it has no helix. So if your saying that the ramps of the helix (in the secondary) are forming scratches that isn't really a problem, quite normal. The "pads or shoes in the secondary that ride on the ramps of the helix will have small scratches as well, not a problem. As for the primary, all the belt dust needs to be blasted out either with air or solvent and then air. Shouldn't be necessary to break down the secondary to accomplish this.

 

[TD Max]

The scratches in the pockets of the primary extend to where the "spider" pads park so no way to polish them out or to determine what is causing this without breaking down the primary itself.

 

[titanrcr]

The scratches in the pockets of the primary extend to where the "spider" pads park so no way to polish them out or to determine what is causing this without breaking down the primary itself.

Got it. That wouldn't concern me much, very normal. Primary without spring installed could have a little drag as it's moved in and out but shouldn't require any real pressure to move. When I service or clean out my primary clutches (annual service) I blast out that area where the pads ride up and down the towers with an aerosol solvent and then blast with air and repeat as needed until it moves freely. Nothing wrong with cleaning these areas up with emery as you mentioned.

 

[TD Max]

I can see a scuff of plastic on the aluminum, but something is scratching it deep enough to leave a small burr that you can feel.

I have it moving a lot more freely now, but can't get to the area behind the pads which also shows scratches.

 

[newtron]

Did a test tonight with secondary springs to see what the mph difference would be on my test track. Last year I ran the stock pink with my turbo and was told to switch to the Yamaha white because of binding....so I did. All year so far its been feeling flat on top so tonight I decided to switch back to my pink Yamaha spring.

With the white spring wrapped at 6-1 I got 107 mpg gps. When I switched to my pink I got 110 mpg gps on same track, same day. This is a short test track.....I will measure and post back

I'm thinking "some" of the top end issues are caused from aftermarket secondary springs holding back full shift out

 

[Nytros rule]

Don't be fooled by a vector. My father inlaw has a 2014 vector and I have a 2014 Viper LTX and when mine was stock he drove right by me on top end, talk about embarrassing. I drove his vector and on a hard packed trail it will do 100mph.

I will be trying the COTC next weekend. I currently have Ulmer trail package #4 and it is a big improvement but I still think it could be better.

Don't discount the Vector, when clutched well will run with a Nytro. Same motor other than cams.
My cousin is running a 2010 Vector and in 600 ft. is within 1/2 a length of my 2010 Nytro, fortunately we were only running 600 ft. because the Vector has longer legs (geared taller) it would out run me.
My Viper needs 60 feet to catch my Nytro in 600 ft.
I tried the COTC and it ain't cheep, $90.00 per weight plus $40.00 for the spring plus rivets plus spring shim somewhere north of $300.00= nice engagement a lazy shift and about 3 KPH less speed.
I will keep looking because I think the Viper should at least run with Nytro. And I am still hunting that 14 800 Etec Freeride.

 

[Nytros rule]

Before we waste two pages of responses on this I have two 2014 Viper XTX's. My wifes is running stock belt, mine is running 8DN, I have tried COTC on both, same (disappointment) results.
The Viper likes to ping the rev limiter and the settle back to about 8400 (torque limit). Mine both pull hard to about 145 KPH and limit there.
The Viper is geared the same as the Nytro, (1.95) the clutches are the same, the 9 tooth 2.52 on the Nytro is .375 smaller than the 8 tooth 3 in. so the Viper should be a bit faster.
The Cat suspension seems to be better than the Yamaha, I could wear out a set of slides on the Nytro in 1200 K, the Viper 2000 and no sign of wear.
So where are we losing, the Cat ECU/Exhaust/air box?

I've playing with Yamaha clutches since putting a YP on my 75 GPX 433 and butting heads with 78 SRX's putting YPZ internals in YP's to upgrade them, machining the helix on 95 and newer secondarys to find the OD that was lost in the secondary in the change from 94 to the 95 reverse cam, so I have spent ? hours I don't even what to think about how many $ spent playing with Yamaha clutching