Primary Rollers

I put in new TP 14.5 rollers in primary, I added tip weight to the heavy hitters to increase rpm, at first I was jumping to 9000 rpm and settlely around 8800 rpm. I am up in the county in Maine with great trails and temp at O. CAI temp between 15 & 35 degrees in and out of throttle. All day I could not get above 8400 rpm full open. What could be the problem for loss of rpm? Maybe 2" of loose snow on top and solid under that. I also have a SD 26 code flash that has not gone away yet. Talk with Yamaha dealer today and the tech said to take out intercooler and heat it to dry it out. I told him my sled was kept in a heater garage and he said that was part of the problem, warm to cold condensation in the intercooler causing the code flash, ran into a guy at the track down lodge for lunch and he also told me guys taking the intercoolers out at night and setting them on top of a radiator to remove moisture, has anyone heard of this, the dealers in the County really know their stuff! Any thoughts on rpm or sd 26 code.

Adding tip weight brings your RPM down, remove tip weight for more rpm/
 
Why couldn't a guy trim the roller pin down a little so when you tighten the bolt and nut it cant flop back and forth bouncing off the cast aluminum. It's a bummer the roller pin doesn't have locking set screws like the weight pin.
Has anyone tried this?
I would think that would help with some of the rattling.
I think this was by design. you can't possibly over tighten the bolt and crack the aluminum cast movable.
 
I was told from the guy at TP that sold me the rollers to add tip weight and it would only change my top end rpm, and did seem to do that but now the top rpm has dropped off! Thanks for posting Phil. They are heavy hitter weights not stock weights
 
I was told from the guy at TP that sold me the rollers to add tip weight and it would only change my top end rpm, and did seem to do that but now the top rpm has dropped off! Thanks for posting Phil. They are heavy hitter weights not stock weights

Yes, add tip weight and it will lower your RPM, remove tip weight to raise RPM.
 
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I trim mine down to where when the nut is good and tight there is just a hair of movement, but clutch is no quieter
I also thought of using one of those wavy spring washers to take up the slop. That is if I could find the perfect size.
 
I know it’s an old thread but. Has anyone found a fix for these rollers yet? I tried the ones with krylon bushings or what ever It’s called, And just checking the sled over and the rollers are toast with about 300 miles on them. Maybe I should be looking deeper at something?
 
I know it’s an old thread but. Has anyone found a fix for these rollers yet? I tried the ones with krylon bushings or what ever It’s called, And just checking the sled over and the rollers are toast with about 300 miles on them. Maybe I should be looking deeper at something?

I have had excellent luck with viper rollers. 15.5mm vs the winders 14.5. May have to change your clutching slightly. I got over 6000 miles to a set of rollers all at 270+hp. My stock rollers would push the bushings out pretty much every ride.
 
I have had excellent luck with viper rollers. 15.5mm vs the winders 14.5. May have to change your clutching slightly. I got over 6000 miles to a set of rollers all at 270+hp. My stock rollers would push the bushings out pretty much every ride.
Mine aren’t pushing the bushings out, it’s flat out eating the bushings In the rollers. Pins are smooth, everything seems fine other then maybe a bushing in the outer primary cover could be changed.
I found a mystery set in my yamaha parts shelf that I’m going to try. It they last I wish I knew what they were from
 
Mine aren’t pushing the bushings out, it’s flat out eating the bushings In the rollers. Pins are smooth, everything seems fine other then maybe a bushing in the outer primary cover could be changed.
I found a mystery set in my yamaha parts shelf that I’m going to try. It they last I wish I knew what they were from

That is how they bushings get destroyed. The rollers push the bushings out, then the rollers dont turn and in a short time the bushing gets destroyed.
 
Buddy was losing primary rollers. Discovered belt strings got into his stubshaft bearing and that bearing was messed and caused failed rollers. Thats the theory anyway.
 
The only way I found to actually FIX the roller eating issue was to go to the older RX-1 or Apex primary clutch. We tried stock bushings and Thunder rollers all to no avail on the stock Sidewinder clutch. No matter what we tried or did we could not make roller bushings or different belts last any length of time.

Went to the older RX-1 and Apex primaries and so far problem is solved to the point where roller problems are in the rearview. My buddy was eating rollers in the Sidewinder primary every week and I was every 300-600 miles. Longest I ever got was 1200 miles on a set of rollers in the stock clutch, but you had to push bushings back into place about half way thru those miles and go easy on the throttle. There is something about the stock clutch that is just not right. Just not strong enough like its made of China steel and alum. possibly a weak design flaw or something, but the older primary is better which is hard to imagine just looking at it.

Since going to the older primary neither my buddy or myself has blown any belts or eaten any rollers, and the older clutch has proven to be quicker and faster than the stock Winder primary. It took a lot of miles, blown belts of all different brands, different rollers, varying offsets, clutch setup and spring testing to figure this all out. It actually took many seasons to finally figure it out that the actual Winder primary was the issue all along. Now we can run any belt without blowing them and clutch setups are far more forgiving with wider tuning windows to them. What a long haul it has been to get to where we are now though, its been very costly trying all the different combos.
 


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