Question on Limiter straps.

[grubf]

I have an 18 50 th annivesary 129. I put on AC skis and a Woody's dual carbide. Did some minor shimming to get carbides running level. There is 3 and 1/2 inches of thread showing on both front shocks. Shocks are fully extended. Don't quite understand why folks are turning them up to 4 plus inches of thread if full extension can be had at 3 and 1/2. I am ditch running on extreme hardpack groomed trails breaking it in. If I get going 50 plus there is no steering. I started checking out a few other things and noticed that the limiter straps appear to be at the longest setting. They are loose when the sled is sitting level and thawed out. They are not doing anything. All the weight is on the front shock/spring of the rear suspension. I can't find anyplace that says what the stock limiter strap settings should be. I have all the set up papers from the dealership but it looks like they just checked all the boxes and sent it out. To me I think I have to get some tension on the limiter straps to bring the front end down. It makes no difference what kind of skis a person has if they are not even on the snow. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Straps are set at the second hole from the end from factory. A lot of us moved them to the last hole for more transfer.

 

[grubf]

Straps are set at the second hole from the end from factory. A lot of us moved them to the last hole for more transfer.

Welllll,,,, I like weight transfer too but it is kind of important to be able to turn also. I could live with it in the ditches here but when I go to Wisconsin and get on their woodsy trails it is going to be handy to be able to turn. Also the LTX skid is a whole different program than the RTX skid. I understand why you might want to do everything possible to get some weight transfer into an LTX. According to most reports the LTX skids do not transfer that well. Maybe I will try putting a 1/2 inch spacer in between my ski and the carbide before I tighten the limiter. Try for the best of both worlds.

 

[snowbeast]

It only takes a few min. to pull straps down and a few more to let them back out,if you have a wheelie machine because it is a 129,than suck it down some,only you will know how it handles,so only you can makes changes to see. I say just do it.

 

[cannondale27]

Or hang forward and over in the direction you want to go. Also helps to tap the brake for a instant to plant the front end and then give it gas and slide it around. What do you weigh and where are your torsions set?

 

[KnappAttack]

Woodys Doolys? They push like a SOB. Any dual carbide is prone to push in the corners. Its why the tuners are so bad too.

Dual carbides, they pack with snow in the middle and float, not bite.

 

[grubf]

Woodys Doolys? They push like a SOB. Any dual carbide is prone to push in the corners. Its why the tuners are so bad too.

Dual carbides, they pack with snow in the middle and float, not bite.

Yes dual carbides pack with snow. If they are on the snow. My skis are off the snow. I can't turn because the skid does not allow the front end to bite. At all. When under power. The limiter straps are doing nothing. It transfers weight wonderfully. At will with the throttle. I am wondering if this is a simple geometry thing. If I am going to retain weight transfer I should leave the straps alone. In order to steer I am going to have to ad depth to the ski/carbide equation. I do not have snowtrackers but I know people that do. They swear by them. To me they are a big heavy rudder type thing but maybe the secret to them is that they ad depth. I measured my dual carbides plus another couple of sets of A C carbides I have laying around. The dual carbides are just short of 3/4 deep. Stock AC Thundercat carbides are 1/2 deep. I have the ability to fab some plates to put another 1/2 inch of material between my skis and the dual carbides. There is certainly enough thread on the dual carbide to bolt it all together again. Could it be that simple?