Radiator Delete?

[TestMaster]

Got stuck working our club golf outing!

 

[TestMaster]

Even the turbo does not have a radiator in the front of the hood only an inter cooler. However you must remove front end panels to check coolant.

 

[stingray719]

View attachment 97788 Even the turbo does not have a radiator in the front of the hood only an inter cooler. However you must remove front end panels to check coolant.
View attachment 97789

Pretty sure the MPI has a radiator still. At least I am pretty sure I saw on on the demo sled in South Dakota. Anybody know for sure?

Oh wait, you mean the pic above is a pic of 100 Cat....duh!

 

[TestMaster]

Yep, 1100 Turbo Cat!

 

[yukon yamaha]

Gonna trace out an apex rad and build one or two out or cardboard and see if I can find a way to mount it and a fan in the machine.... now to find a good place to hide it..... make a screen to cover the hole in the hood and see about hose options......
needs to cut down weight but still be functional....

 

[yukon yamaha]

hmmmm check this out...... replace some hose with one or two of these???

http://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-coolio-radiator-cooler/

 

[stingray719]

hmmmm check this out...... replace some hose with one or two of these???

http://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-coolio-radiator-cooler/

Interesting..................

 

[cannondale27]

They do get some ice buildup but doesn't seem to be a big issue. I can just imagine removing rad and the coolant and all that weight to the tunnel the front would feel really light!

 

[stingray719]

They do get some ice buildup but doesn't seem to be a big issue. I can just imagine removing rad and the coolant and all that weight to the tunnel the front would feel really light!

I guess that is my question, my M8 only has the front tunnel cooler and if you use the ice scratchers it stays cool. Makes me wonder if the Viper could do the same, BUT DONT DO THIS IF YOU ARE NOT INTO TAKING RISKS. Disclaimer needed so somebody doesn't try this and be angry with us if they overheat an engine.

I may put an automotive style heater hose shut off to test this, that way if it does get hot I can turn rad back on quick.

 

[stingray719]

They do get some ice buildup but doesn't seem to be a big issue. I can just imagine removing rad and the coolant and all that weight to the tunnel the front would feel really light!

Cannondale, if you go to the skid and the front skid shock, and drill holes forward and move lower skid shock mount forward your front end will dance like an M8. Makes it feel REALLY light. Don't like it move it back. I measured the distance between wheel hole and shock hole....and drilled new hole same distance in front of wheel hole. Adjust front end lift with rear skid shock.

OK, back on topic...lol.

 

[matt@mpi]

I've wanted to dump the radiator from day one the steam SUCKS in the deep snow. After watching Yamaha do a test that involved completely taping every hood opening to make the sled over heat it took longer then I expected. They needed to put the ice scratcher up to get it to over heat in 40 degree temps. After watching this I believe that the mountain guys could run without one. We've working on make a clean delete kit. I know its not hard but something that's done and looks done right.

 

[yukon yamaha]

The hardest part for me is jumping or bashing through some good snow I just don't want the G2 parts bouncing around breaking or hitting anything else. I am 99% sold on using a "rad" of some sort and leaning towards the G2 . Location for these parts will be the big key. Other than the weight loss I also cant stand the steam from snow coming in. I would like to put 3 maybe 4 of the 5-6 inch inline rads through out the system, even if I needed a small piece of rubber between it and a brace to hold it tight and not rub or bounce. The hard part will being able to do this and have it look clean and easy to install.

 

[TD Max]

I would suggest a pr of cushion strap clamps to secure the inline radiators. This concept has been around for a long time with the ATV crowd. I've never used them, but can see where they would help as radiator fins tend to get plugged with mud and dust on an ATV.

 

[yamadoo]

There must be objective heat production numbers for the motor and similarly heat dissipation numbers for these products. My point is we should be able to calculate & know the surface area of G2's needed to replace the radiator.

I sometimes worry, "The engineers choose this size radiator for a reason. They know lighter is better . They also know the numbers ."
I always wish good luck to those who push the limits. When they find a better way I wonder what we're those engineers thinking.

 

[YamahaTim]

There must be objective heat production numbers for the motor and similarly heat dissipation numbers for these products. My point is we should be able to calculate & know the surface area of G2's needed to replace the radiator.

I sometimes worry, "The engineers choose this size radiator for a reason. They know lighter is better . They also know the numbers ."
I always wish good luck to those who push the limits. When they find a better way I wonder what we're those engineers thinking.

All I know is that if I let mine idle for it seems like one minute it's already at 170-190 degrees. It does not take long to get hot! Unless snow is good and I'm moving the temps are good. But when I'm going slow or low snow or idle it's so hot that I have to shut it down. 190+ I know the fan kicks on at 190. But unless I'm moving the fan is not enough. So unless your in tons of powder, I would think you would need something pretty good to cool this thing down. At the same time we need to figure out something for the steam and ice build up on the rad!