Radiator Delete?

[Studroes144]

I'd say a lot of the source of your high heat is from the turbo Tim. With mine I can leave it sit at idle and it will get up to 180-190 degrees pretty quick..but once the fan kicks on it cools back down in the 180 range. My fan kicks on at 192 degrees

 

[TestMaster]

There is always a lead or chief engineer on this type of project. His job is to insure that all of the engineering goals that make the product perform to their requirements are met. In this case, they know a ton about the motor, ther baby, and know how Arctic Cat has cooled their product and how well that product worked. I suspect they selected the solution that comfortably allows the engine to perform it's job for the engine's designed lifespan which could be in excess of 100,000 miles based on the 25,000 mile valve lash adjustment requirement.

In other words, lots of design margin built into the cooling system. This insures extended life of the power plant, and provides a high probability that you will not hit the high temperature limit which basically limits the engine's RPM and power output.

Mine is non turbo and acts a lot like Tim's, I can idle mine once it was broken in but don't believe I've sen it get below 188 degrees probably because the radiator is kicking in and out at those temperatures.

 

[YamahaTim]

I'd say a lot of the source of your high heat is from the turbo Tim. With mine I can leave it sit at idle and it will get up to 180-190 degrees pretty quick..but once the fan kicks on it cools back down in the 180 range. My fan kicks on at 192 degrees

It could be...even my Nytro would shut off at idle. If I let it sit for a couple of minutes. Now it does have a safety, that will kill the motor if it gets to hot. But without the radiator that could be bad!! Even at -20 degrees mine would run hot. It would only take ten seconds to start dropping once I got going again. So without that fan I would have overheated and probably blew my motor or damaged my turbo.

TestMaster is right, and the tolerance on the temp is figured out. But that's with the rad. And we are trying to figure out a way to delete that without over heating our engines. And in the mountains that might be possible. But for us flat landers it might not be so simple. I think the guys are on to something cause my wife's Vector with the same motor can idle forever. It has never shut off due to temp. So maybe that's the ticket. But the steam sucks and it also causes bogging of the motor if your in heavy powder. That's not good! Cause they sure are heavy when they are stuck!! I have a cold air kit that puts the air intake in a different spot and that should eliminate the bogging, but will not stop the steam and icing that it causes. Heat exchangers will cause ice build up. So hopefully out TY guys or Yamaha will figure out a fix. Cause that takes time and I don't have it. I might cut under my headlight to open it up so the intercooler can get a lot more fresh air and that might work for cooling better while idling. But probably not much.

 

[yamadoo]

You do it the right way by having the gauges to know what is going on.

 

[YamahaTim]

You do it the right way by having the gauges to know what is going on.

Lol...I was doing it right. I had gauges and was running it rich. Bad thing is the gauge was not working and I ended up going through a set of pistons anyway. I bought gauges that my dealer trusted and they use them all the time. But they failed and I suffered!

 

[maim]

dumb thought for the steam/icing issue. anyone try covering the rad vents in the hood with frogskins or outerwears material? seems like just keeping the snow from hitting the rad and making steam might solve the problem without removing the rad.

 

[yukon yamaha]

I think it would make a huge change in the steam but for me I am looking to get a lot of cold air in and just as much blowing out the back.... removing the rad seemed like the next step.. I have a dead light delete kit allowing a lot of air in and drilled out a lot of the knee plastics to let the hot out..
However! You are still right we will need to get a good strong skin and frame to cover the hole left over, cant hit a drift or punch through some snow and have the skin pop off or let a lot of snow in

 

[YamahaTim]

dumb thought for the steam/icing issue. anyone try covering the rad vents in the hood with frogskins or outerwears material? seems like just keeping the snow from hitting the rad and making steam might solve the problem without removing the rad.

I thought of that as well, and wondered if I put frog skin in front of the rad, will the aim the air coming in away from entering the rad. Like deflecting it away? And after a couple of good drift hitting you would rip that away. Just me thinking again...

 

[TestMaster]

I think it would make a huge change in the steam but for me I am looking to get a lot of cold air in and just as much blowing out the back.... removing the rad seemed like the next step.. I have a dead light delete kit allowing a lot of air in and drilled out a lot of the knee plastics to let the hot out..
However! You are still right we will need to get a good strong skin and frame to cover the hole left over, cant hit a drift or punch through some snow and have the skin pop off or let a lot of snow in

Is the steam coming from the rectangular vent located between the gage cluster and the steering column? The arctic cat Sno Pro Ltd's come with a goggle bag mounted in this location. I also have one mounted on our LTX and have been in three feet of wet snow with minimal steam. The guy I was riding with was riding a MTN Nytro with a 153" track, he had more steam than I, but he was also in the lead.

One other thing, what if we have enough air coming into the hood but a restriction on the back side getting the hot air out. Perhaps that's why I didn't need insulated boots even in -10 outside air temperatures? There is so much air being pushed out on my feet because there is nowhere else to go. Just some thoughts!

 

[yukon yamaha]

I have the mofo knee vents installed and I really notice the heat that comes through the engine bay and out by your feet and my knees. I did see a braced front hood frog skin the other day, I just need to find the link again so I can show you guys.

http://www.moflowvents.com/arctic-cat-proclimb-procross-1100-turbo-intercooler-vent/ I know it is for the 1100 turbo and don't think it will fit but the extra brace or two built into the frame of the skin would be enough to keep it ridged
It would also look killer on the front of a machine under the hood fins!

 

[yukon yamaha]

http://www.xxxmodrods.com/product/proclimb-intercooler-vents-black/ maybe? we could sure use a cat guy in here with these vents installed hahah

 

[TestMaster]

Thanks for the hot links! Definitely worth looking into!

 

[yukon yamaha]

I sent an email to the guys at mofovents to see the sizes of vents for the cat 1100 turbo rad screen and here is what I got back!

"The hood vent measures 22 1/4" long and 5 3/4" wide.
The intercooler vent measures 14" long and 10 1/2" wide towards the top and 9 1/8" wide torward the bottom.
What spot are you exactly looking for. I could have another vent that my fit or I can probley make one if you send me a template"

If that is not the best answer I have ever seen! Is any one able to measure to see if the intercooler vent will work on the viper..... my machine is back at work.

 

[TestMaster]

Give me about 1/2 of an hour and I'll measure 2 Vipers.

13 inches long "top to bottom"
12 1/4" wide at the top
5 1/4" wide at the bottom

 

[yukon yamaha]

hmmm what about from the back side with the hood off? I think we should try to keep the stock "fins" on the hood and rivet it to the backside , might look cleaner?
Thanks for looking!!!!