Stock jets, needles, fuel screws set 2 turns off seat. Nice idle, but continously popping between 4500-7000RPM.
Moved fuel srews to 2.5 turns out. As soon as I started it, I could tell it was not right. Sychronized the carbs and they were right on. I figured I would put up with some burbbling on idle if it cleared up the popping.
Finally some snow to test yesterday. 2800 ft elevation 30-34F
Started with 700 in pitot jet. Seemed to pop less under light throttle, but still lean above 7500RPM. EFT guage showing 1150-1250 and still climbing. Sensor is located where exhaust goes down from 2 into 1 pipe.
Went down to 300 in pitot and it was still lean but not as bad. Then tried a 100 in pitot and it went extreme rich.
Dual digital boost/egt guage. EGT part seems fine as it reads what spark plug color is showing. Boost part appears to be junk. I have already changed actuators, bypassed the 2 stage switch, and Bender just sent me a new transducer. Guage shows 11lbs peak, 7-9 on low boost and 23 peak, 14-17 on high boost.
Took carbs off last night, put fuel screws back to 2 turns and reglued everything, even though everything looked fine. I have checked fuel pressure @ idle and it is 5lbs.
I guess my next step is a new boost guage, and a fuel pressure guage I can see when riding.
Sled feels a good bit stronger than my 02 SRX7, so I'm guessing its pitting out around 4lbs of boost. If the guage is right and its really putting out 9lbs, I'm not impressed at all.
Where from here???? Try lifting the needles one notch?
Moved fuel srews to 2.5 turns out. As soon as I started it, I could tell it was not right. Sychronized the carbs and they were right on. I figured I would put up with some burbbling on idle if it cleared up the popping.
Finally some snow to test yesterday. 2800 ft elevation 30-34F
Started with 700 in pitot jet. Seemed to pop less under light throttle, but still lean above 7500RPM. EFT guage showing 1150-1250 and still climbing. Sensor is located where exhaust goes down from 2 into 1 pipe.
Went down to 300 in pitot and it was still lean but not as bad. Then tried a 100 in pitot and it went extreme rich.
Dual digital boost/egt guage. EGT part seems fine as it reads what spark plug color is showing. Boost part appears to be junk. I have already changed actuators, bypassed the 2 stage switch, and Bender just sent me a new transducer. Guage shows 11lbs peak, 7-9 on low boost and 23 peak, 14-17 on high boost.
Took carbs off last night, put fuel screws back to 2 turns and reglued everything, even though everything looked fine. I have checked fuel pressure @ idle and it is 5lbs.
I guess my next step is a new boost guage, and a fuel pressure guage I can see when riding.
Sled feels a good bit stronger than my 02 SRX7, so I'm guessing its pitting out around 4lbs of boost. If the guage is right and its really putting out 9lbs, I'm not impressed at all.
Where from here???? Try lifting the needles one notch?
Still sounds like a leak to me. Have you put hose clamps on EVERY single hose connection EVERYWHERE? Try wiggling the float bowl tees.... if they wiggle at all then they are NOT glued correctly.
Check all hoses with airbox ON to see if anything is getting kinked, like the fuel supply line.
Can you post pics of your hose routing for us to look at?
Sled should feel a BUNCH stronger than a SRX7.
Check all hoses with airbox ON to see if anything is getting kinked, like the fuel supply line.
Can you post pics of your hose routing for us to look at?
Sled should feel a BUNCH stronger than a SRX7.
Hoses look good. Can't see under intercooler to look for kinks. Your throttle cable looks pretty tight. Coul you be having TORS issues? What are the black lines going into the white tee right behind the throttle cable.
Someone,I believe had a simular problem and had cracked exhaust flex flangs behind the motor. Just a thought.
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had this problem when I first installed my bender unit , they have some charge tubes that run leaner than others , I had to plug off the pitot tube jet to get it to run w/ 135 jets ..... I got a different charge tube and now I am ronning 132.5 's with 700 pitot jet .
I'll tell ya what! Ya better get rid of all them screw clamps ya have on the line runinng to the pito tube. Especially the ones going to the carbs! They will leak when under boost. Ya have to put then pinch clamps back on!!
There is a reason why bender puts them clamps in the kit.
I did the same as you when i installed my turbo cause i could not find my pinch tool. Nothing but problems till i put the pinch clamps back on!!
There is a reason why bender puts them clamps in the kit.
I did the same as you when i installed my turbo cause i could not find my pinch tool. Nothing but problems till i put the pinch clamps back on!!
nitro said:
I do NOT aggree at all. I have screw clamps and so do several other turbos that I have worked on. Screw type clamps are used in many applications with much greater pressure than we are running with our turbos. I would like to see any scientific evidence that supports your claim that screw clamps are somehow not effective.
As to why Bender uses pinch clamps....... have you compared prices?
BigDog,
Check the tees for wiggles, check TORS, insure that fuel supply going to electric pump is not getting kinked when air box is put on.
Haller is correct charge tubes vary. If none of the above is messed up then jet up. BTW what size of mains do you have?
Check the tees for wiggles, check TORS, insure that fuel supply going to electric pump is not getting kinked when air box is put on.
Haller is correct charge tubes vary. If none of the above is messed up then jet up. BTW what size of mains do you have?
Spray25: I have stock 135's
Can you get a pic. of the clear lines on the back?
Skydog
Skydog
Skydog: I did not use the clear hose that comes on the sled, because a lot of the guys stated that it gets bad from engine heat. I used heavy wall vacuum hose.
Spray25: I keep going back to the front T's. They are secure and do not wiggle at all on the carbs. But I don't like the way they feel where they go on the hose.
And the fact that the sled does not respond the same all the time, makes me feel that it is T related.
Is the size of the opening important? I was thinking of inserting a thin walled tube into the T where the hose goes on to give it more support to clamp.
And the fact that the sled does not respond the same all the time, makes me feel that it is T related.
Is the size of the opening important? I was thinking of inserting a thin walled tube into the T where the hose goes on to give it more support to clamp.
