I didn't care for the wire, I used wire ties where a clamp would not fit. As you can see though, I'm having my share of problems.
BigDog05 said:
MC uses a small insert. A little reduction in size should be fine just don't go overboard.
Skydog said:
I use wire ties. I found the copper wire broke to easy when I was tightening it.
Thrusted Vector
Expert
BigDog,I know this sounds like a broken record,but did you ever do a leak down test?
I was just reading back through your post. You said a 300 improved it, but a 100 was too rich. Did you try anything inbetween?
treewhacker
Expert
I also have the popping at low throttle settings, but I have awsome big end performance. I just haven't had time to get to the bottom of this popping problem. I have 132.5 mains, 10 Pilot, 320 Pitot. It is annoying to say the least, especially when you're just driving slowly in trees or rough trail. I have the Air/Fuel gauge, but it bounces around so much you can't rely on it. Mine is a dry popping, I think lean. I am thinking about going to a size richer needle in the middle position. I don't have clamps on all the hoses, but will put them on. I wanted to cure the oil problem before I fine tuned the fuel, and now my oil problem is gone so I can do that.
10 pilots might explain the popping that is quite lean.
No, I have a bunch between 300 and 700, but nothing between 100-300.
Last night I put the fuel screws back to 2 turns from 2.5 turns because it was loading up on idle @ 2.5 turns. That cleaned up the idle very nice so I figured I would raise the needles one notch to try and get the temp down in the midrange a little. Just raising the needles one notch loaded it up so bad that I almost fouled out a set of plugs just letting it warm up. So I put the needles back to stock and it would idle fine.
When I put the 100 in, it got so very rich @ low throttle position. I probably did not give it enough time to clean itself out, went about 200 ft and got disgusted and turned around and put it on the trailer.
It definitely needs bigger mains. But why? 135's in it now. I keep going back to its not getting enough fuel above 7000RPM. Above 7000 the sled pulls hard, no popping or anything, the EGT just keeps climbing until I get nervous and let off. It takes approx 1000-1200 ft to get 1200-1250EGT. There does not appear to be any kinks in any of the lines. It has to be either the carb vent lines or the fuel pump not increasing fuel flow.
My fuel pressure is 5lbs @ idle.
The T's are secure on the cards, but if I'm getting leakage around the hoses coming off the T's, would that keep it from increasing fuel flow?
Last night I put the fuel screws back to 2 turns from 2.5 turns because it was loading up on idle @ 2.5 turns. That cleaned up the idle very nice so I figured I would raise the needles one notch to try and get the temp down in the midrange a little. Just raising the needles one notch loaded it up so bad that I almost fouled out a set of plugs just letting it warm up. So I put the needles back to stock and it would idle fine.
When I put the 100 in, it got so very rich @ low throttle position. I probably did not give it enough time to clean itself out, went about 200 ft and got disgusted and turned around and put it on the trailer.
It definitely needs bigger mains. But why? 135's in it now. I keep going back to its not getting enough fuel above 7000RPM. Above 7000 the sled pulls hard, no popping or anything, the EGT just keeps climbing until I get nervous and let off. It takes approx 1000-1200 ft to get 1200-1250EGT. There does not appear to be any kinks in any of the lines. It has to be either the carb vent lines or the fuel pump not increasing fuel flow.
My fuel pressure is 5lbs @ idle.
The T's are secure on the cards, but if I'm getting leakage around the hoses coming off the T's, would that keep it from increasing fuel flow?
I have the same low throttle popping as treewacker. That is why I was increasing the fuel screws and needles. But increasing them only made the low end pig rich and did nothing to cool down the midrange.
Bender said to put 15 pilots in with fuel screws @ 2 turns to clear up low throttle popping. I talked to them on Friday. I thought the low throttle popping is too lean.
The main problem is lack of snow, can't get out 3-4 days in a row to keep tuning.
Bender said to put 15 pilots in with fuel screws @ 2 turns to clear up low throttle popping. I talked to them on Friday. I thought the low throttle popping is too lean.
The main problem is lack of snow, can't get out 3-4 days in a row to keep tuning.
Guys what is stock mains,pilots and fuel screws?
Mains 135, pilots 17.5, screws 2. This is from the factory not accounting for any dealer changes.
Thrusted Vector
Expert
Leak down test???
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
When installing my brothers RX-1 Stage II turbo. I found that the copper wire was a joke; it kept breaking every time you tired to tighten it securely. I used stainless steel wire from our wire feed welder and it worked great. On my brothers maiden voyage he had the same problems that you are describing. He ended up being to rich on his main jets. I am not sure but I believe he has 132.5 mains in now.
woodsrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2005
- Messages
- 669
- Location
- Lewiston, ID
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 YZ450FX1 Moto-Trax 137 Mountain Kit
By the way 1250 is not hot. Your just getting to good air/fuel burn at this point.
woodsrider: My guage is pretty far back. Where the two pipes go down to one pipe. I know the target EGT is 1400-1500 up by the engine, but not sure about that far back. Do you know anyone with a probe that far back? Thanks
