srvfan
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 484
I'm confused and um pissed frankly . Went out last weekend to the only place with snow in N.E. we had ripple/stutter bumps . My wifes phazer 00 with an XTC rear suspension road better not a little a ton better than my 05 Vector . My sled beat me up . bumps here are 4-8 inches and i can tell you how many are in each corner even in the dark cause i feel every one of them .
last year I removed the bottom stoppers and that helped with the horendous rebound kick in bigger holes. i do not bottom out except in huge holes with cams set at medium. I tried putting them to soft . That got me a little qiuicker bottoming but no help in stutter bumps, so i moved them back.
Which way do i adjust transfer nuts for better ride there is a red line that it says not to exceed , if i put it there does that give a soft ride or harsh? Or should i go totaly the other way so no lines show . I had it so no lines show at all but i'm not sure if that's what you do for soft ride????
handling is fine not tippy for me at all front shocks set to soft side of adjustment range . Center shock i'm not sure i tried to get a calaper in there to check but can't fit it in , do you have to pull the shock to measure it?? . I'm 165lb and very dissapointed that i spent 8k and her 3700$ when new Phazer rides better.
The magazines said this suspension was a huge improvement for yamaha , I say they lied My vmax rode better. the front suspension though does seem better , it tracks very straight and I can feel it suck up the bumps . In the back it seems like there is no suspension and the seat is the only thing cushoning my back
. Again it does not bottom it feels more like it doesn't move at all unless pounded through big whoops. if i have 11" of travel then I should be able to set it so when you hit 4-6" bumps the suspension moves 4-6" inches and you barely feel them .
Can somebody please tell me how to do that?? dealer said you have to break it in well i've got over 1100 miles how much longer do i need to wait .
Side note my hyfax are fine plenty of wear left and all we've had to ride in is snirt or solid ice , yes my inside plastic wheels are all deformed and the track noise is unbelievable .
last year I removed the bottom stoppers and that helped with the horendous rebound kick in bigger holes. i do not bottom out except in huge holes with cams set at medium. I tried putting them to soft . That got me a little qiuicker bottoming but no help in stutter bumps, so i moved them back.
Which way do i adjust transfer nuts for better ride there is a red line that it says not to exceed , if i put it there does that give a soft ride or harsh? Or should i go totaly the other way so no lines show . I had it so no lines show at all but i'm not sure if that's what you do for soft ride????
handling is fine not tippy for me at all front shocks set to soft side of adjustment range . Center shock i'm not sure i tried to get a calaper in there to check but can't fit it in , do you have to pull the shock to measure it?? . I'm 165lb and very dissapointed that i spent 8k and her 3700$ when new Phazer rides better.
The magazines said this suspension was a huge improvement for yamaha , I say they lied My vmax rode better. the front suspension though does seem better , it tracks very straight and I can feel it suck up the bumps . In the back it seems like there is no suspension and the seat is the only thing cushoning my back
. Again it does not bottom it feels more like it doesn't move at all unless pounded through big whoops. if i have 11" of travel then I should be able to set it so when you hit 4-6" bumps the suspension moves 4-6" inches and you barely feel them .
Can somebody please tell me how to do that?? dealer said you have to break it in well i've got over 1100 miles how much longer do i need to wait .
Side note my hyfax are fine plenty of wear left and all we've had to ride in is snirt or solid ice , yes my inside plastic wheels are all deformed and the track noise is unbelievable .
The post below should help you . It also answers a lot of your questions. It sums up a lot of issues I originally had on my '05.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=22267&start=45
I'm your exact weight. My only tip is don't worry so much about ski-lift as you fine tune. I think it has to do with the torque of this machine which is a desirable trait. I think it can be over come by driving style changes.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=22267&start=45
I'm your exact weight. My only tip is don't worry so much about ski-lift as you fine tune. I think it has to do with the torque of this machine which is a desirable trait. I think it can be over come by driving style changes.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Less lines showing= wider gap. Wider gap=more transfer. More transfer= softer ride, but bottoms out easier, because the rear and middle suspensions couple together later. If you do not have an issue with it bottoming out, try dialing in a little more transfer (larger gap) This should soften it up a little, as the rear shock will compress farther on bumps before the middle shock and spring start to assist.
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Honestly what I did to mine helped out immensely! Don't have time to post all the details now, but will either tonite or tomorrow night.
STORM-CHASER
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Yes please do post I would be intrested alsoundecided said:
srvfan
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 484
rear
I will switch the transfer back the way it was . Undecided please post what you did.
I will switch the transfer back the way it was . Undecided please post what you did.
Oak Hill
VIP Member
SRVFAN - Adjust your transfer to full soft (just past the last line). Adjust your rear suspension front shock spring to 106mm (bottom of spring to center of lower attaching bolt). This will eat up the studder bumps. If the front shock bottoms on bigger bumps, tighten it up 1 turn at a time until you get it where you like it. Good luck. 
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
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- 1,151
- Age
- 54
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- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
I guess it would help to know how much you actually weigh before determining on how to make your suspension ride better for you. I was rather impressed with mine last weekend, i was riding in the UP with 4 REV's and 2 crossfires and it held it's own rather well and I only had one of those bone jarring bottom outs in 300 miles. Most of the moguls were only 12" due to lack of snow but for being 280 lbs bottom stoppers on hard and cams on hard everything else stock it took quite a beating. I'd be willing to bet when you have it dialed in better you will be much happier.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
He said he weighs 165. He should probably pay attention to what Undecided did for his sled, as he is a lighter rider also and had the same complaints. I've never had a harsh ride complaint, but I've got a little more "ballast" like you, Freak.
srvfan
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 484
Vector freak: at 280 i can see the rebound not being a problem at 165-170 the rebound was unreal on 12" bumps , you could feel it compress fine but when it came up off the bottom stoppers it comes up so fast it wants to pitch me over the bars.
I'll probably switych to the Ohlins shocks that have helped others if i keep it next year , On stutter bumps the suspension barely moves . For kicks I rode it two up with my 60lb son on with me and it improved considerably. Less rebound kick , no real increase in bottoming.
to me if you spring order maybe you could spring order shocks/springs for your riding style or weight. or do something like Cat does ZL/SabreCat for lighter or less aggresive riders ZR/Firecat/sno pro for the big boys.
I'll probably switych to the Ohlins shocks that have helped others if i keep it next year , On stutter bumps the suspension barely moves . For kicks I rode it two up with my 60lb son on with me and it improved considerably. Less rebound kick , no real increase in bottoming.
to me if you spring order maybe you could spring order shocks/springs for your riding style or weight. or do something like Cat does ZL/SabreCat for lighter or less aggresive riders ZR/Firecat/sno pro for the big boys.
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
Here's what I did in no particular order:
I'm a trail cruiser..not a ditchbanger or a granpa...weigh 210 lbs
1. Revalved front ski shocks. Dealer even said they were stiff by Yami standards. Took out 4 compression shims and added a rebound shim. MUCH MUCH better ride coming from the front. Might take out one more compression shim..not quite sure. Wish I had a compression clicker.
Stock ski springs are cranked tight. Wish I had a little more spring to play with but it's OK as it is. Virtually no lift ...corners like its on rails and runs straight and true with my 6" doolies (to go with the 144 studs). Steering presure is actually pretty light. Can drive her 1 handed!
IMO - getting the front end more pliable in the bumps makes this sled a different beast..read = better
2. Revalved front track shock just a bit softer.
2a - took out anti bottom stops
3. Put dual rate spring off of a Viper on the front track shock in place of the stock single rate. HUGE improvement. Hard to describe what it feels like but you can feel the front track working with the back of the track in the bumps. Dont have a measuremnt on the spring collar but right now I'd say it's a little past halfway on the tight side.
4. Rear torsion springs on high. I weigh 210. IMO you need to run the rear suspension as I as you can to make the best use of available rear travel. I just might try the heavier springs once I get the new rear track shock installed.
5. Tranfer rods set to "beyond" full transfer. I got down there with a flashlight and turned the nuts out until you could just see the rod's angled shoulder. Dont know for sure but it seems like your getting at least one more line of transfer. I'd like to see if I can find new rods like they (perf shops) make for the RX1 where you get some xtra transfer inches. I dont mind the straight ahead full throttle lightness in the front end, and it definitely doesnt bother me in the corners. I think thte fact that I have the front springs cranked tight makes up for any cornering ski lift you'll get once your back on the throttle.
All of the above has made this sled nice to ride. Rode 206 last Saturday in conditions from flat groom to 2' rollers and the only reason I was a little sore was that we were running hard on top of the 2 footers at the end of the day and my 46 yr old body isnt used to that.
NOW - I'm waiting for what should be the icing on the cake! The POS rear track shock is being replaced. The rest of the problem with the rear skid IMO has to do with whats been mentioned on this board.....lack of rebound damping. You keep getting kicked in the keister no matter what your speed is in the bumps.
I'm putting an '06 Nytro shock in that has has a compression clicker, and the clicker is much easier to adjust than the Ohlins. Please dont get on my about Onlins quality vs KYB (??) because if you were in my shoes, you woould have done the same, and I'll leave it at that.
Dealer has the shock, and based on what he feels in the shock, he wants me to try it out the way it came. I need to get the sled in and get it put on, which will happen this weekend.
So thats what I've done, and I can say that I'm a happy camper.
I'm a trail cruiser..not a ditchbanger or a granpa...weigh 210 lbs
1. Revalved front ski shocks. Dealer even said they were stiff by Yami standards. Took out 4 compression shims and added a rebound shim. MUCH MUCH better ride coming from the front. Might take out one more compression shim..not quite sure. Wish I had a compression clicker.
Stock ski springs are cranked tight. Wish I had a little more spring to play with but it's OK as it is. Virtually no lift ...corners like its on rails and runs straight and true with my 6" doolies (to go with the 144 studs). Steering presure is actually pretty light. Can drive her 1 handed!
IMO - getting the front end more pliable in the bumps makes this sled a different beast..read = better
2. Revalved front track shock just a bit softer.
2a - took out anti bottom stops
3. Put dual rate spring off of a Viper on the front track shock in place of the stock single rate. HUGE improvement. Hard to describe what it feels like but you can feel the front track working with the back of the track in the bumps. Dont have a measuremnt on the spring collar but right now I'd say it's a little past halfway on the tight side.
4. Rear torsion springs on high. I weigh 210. IMO you need to run the rear suspension as I as you can to make the best use of available rear travel. I just might try the heavier springs once I get the new rear track shock installed.
5. Tranfer rods set to "beyond" full transfer. I got down there with a flashlight and turned the nuts out until you could just see the rod's angled shoulder. Dont know for sure but it seems like your getting at least one more line of transfer. I'd like to see if I can find new rods like they (perf shops) make for the RX1 where you get some xtra transfer inches. I dont mind the straight ahead full throttle lightness in the front end, and it definitely doesnt bother me in the corners. I think thte fact that I have the front springs cranked tight makes up for any cornering ski lift you'll get once your back on the throttle.
All of the above has made this sled nice to ride. Rode 206 last Saturday in conditions from flat groom to 2' rollers and the only reason I was a little sore was that we were running hard on top of the 2 footers at the end of the day and my 46 yr old body isnt used to that.
NOW - I'm waiting for what should be the icing on the cake! The POS rear track shock is being replaced. The rest of the problem with the rear skid IMO has to do with whats been mentioned on this board.....lack of rebound damping. You keep getting kicked in the keister no matter what your speed is in the bumps.
I'm putting an '06 Nytro shock in that has has a compression clicker, and the clicker is much easier to adjust than the Ohlins. Please dont get on my about Onlins quality vs KYB (??) because if you were in my shoes, you woould have done the same, and I'll leave it at that.
Dealer has the shock, and based on what he feels in the shock, he wants me to try it out the way it came. I need to get the sled in and get it put on, which will happen this weekend.
So thats what I've done, and I can say that I'm a happy camper.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
undecided said:
Good to hear. Sorry, with my poor memory, I thought you were a lighter rider. Forgot you were old and chubby.
Kidding. You're my age and a slightly lighter.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
srvfan said:
I weight the same as you and ride aggressively....here's my setup:
I left the ski shocks and springs at their stock setting from my dealer. It rocks as is. I did add 6" Shaperbars.
In the rear I removed the anti bottoming stoppers all together. This eliminated the kick back. I dialed two more turns of transfer into each control rod from stock setting.
I increased the front track shock spring preload by two turns from stock.
My torsion spring blocks are set to MED.
This setup kicks azz for me. It eats studder bumps like they weren't even there. I can actually accelerate in junk that I used to slow down for. I only bottom on the hardest of hits (which you should). I can actually feel the rear skid stroking through its range of motion. Yes the rear track shock is not up to par. At some point I will replace mine.
This isn't the setup for everyone but it works for me.
ssvolvo
Veteran
Ditch the rear shock.....best money you'll ever spend on your sled.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
ssvolvo said:
