rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Thank you guys 
Very useful info.
Very useful info.
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
IF you can avoid it by any means I wouldnt use plastiguage. I would run it over to a machine shop with good mics and get it done c orrectly.
Having been around building race engines my entire life have seen some issues with plastiguage giving false readings.
However in most cases it will be just fine, but if you have the opportunity to have some check it, you will always feel better.
good luck
Having been around building race engines my entire life have seen some issues with plastiguage giving false readings.
However in most cases it will be just fine, but if you have the opportunity to have some check it, you will always feel better.
good luck
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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Kevin Garceau said:
LOL....not sure where you got your info from,but plasti-gage IS the proper way to measure accurately,and the ONLY WAY TO BE SURE it will have the correct spec.....
you can measure all you want,but until you TORQUE things down you wont know your clearence.
Dan
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Well I knew this would start an agrument.
But here is how we do it building 1000hp race engines.
Torque the mains down with no crank, use inside mic and get mearsurement, all the way across.
Then get measurements on the crank mains.
Same for the rods. - you do this with bearings in place.
I personally dont know anyone that would build an all out race engine with plastigauge. I have been told several variables will effect the "squish" you get from it. I have built some more mild engines with it and never had an issue.
If you have the opportunity to get it measured as stated above I would.
Thats just me. I personally have never even seen the inside of these motors, so maybe Im out to lunch. Just stating few hi perf shops (car engines) will use plastiguage.
But here is how we do it building 1000hp race engines.
Torque the mains down with no crank, use inside mic and get mearsurement, all the way across.
Then get measurements on the crank mains.
Same for the rods. - you do this with bearings in place.
I personally dont know anyone that would build an all out race engine with plastigauge. I have been told several variables will effect the "squish" you get from it. I have built some more mild engines with it and never had an issue.
If you have the opportunity to get it measured as stated above I would.
Thats just me. I personally have never even seen the inside of these motors, so maybe Im out to lunch. Just stating few hi perf shops (car engines) will use plastiguage.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 64
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- 1,753
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thank you guys
My friend is going to send his engine to one of the best MC engine builder in Norway so the engine work will be in good hands. This guy raised havoc winning the national Superbike championships many years in a row in the 90s on bikes he had done the motor work on
My friend is going to send his engine to one of the best MC engine builder in Norway so the engine work will be in good hands. This guy raised havoc winning the national Superbike championships many years in a row in the 90s on bikes he had done the motor work on
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