Removing axle and jackshaft bearings

[fourbarrel]

I've watched whatever videos I can find on the subject of Sidewinder/Viper axle and jackshaft bearings and they all seem to follow the same trend of cleaning and re-greasing in place.It would seem to me that doing that work would be easier if they were in a wash tank so that begs the question,are those two bearings press fit?Are they difficult to remove from their respective housings?I picked my new to me '19 SRX up this afternoon but have yet to clear out a spot to get it into my shed so I can start looking into all the things I have read about being problem areas.While I'm on the subject of axle bearings,what's the deal with the relationship of the bearing inner race and the axle? Is the shoulder of the axle not big enough for a decently snug fit? A friend of mine that has a Winder suggested that most troubles come from moisture getting into the bearing and causing them to freeze up and rather than roll they spin on the shaft.Anyone have any thoughts on this theory?Being that it's location is the mount for the brake caliper there is no doubt plenty of heat cycling so the chances of water getting into whatever cracks it can find would be increased.

 

[Sevey]

Not so sure water has much to do with it- more cat building the thing with piss poor tolerances allowing the shaft to spin on the bearing. Keep reading here, there is a ton of info to help. To date most guys are using the barn of parts drive shaft wedge, to help hold the bearing to the shaft.

As for the drive bearings. If they are cleaned out and then re packed each season they will give pretty good life.
Ms

 

[fourbarrel]

Not so sure water has much to do with it- more cat building the thing with piss poor tolerances allowing the shaft to spin on the bearing. Keep reading here, there is a ton of info to help. To date most guys are using the barn of parts drive shaft wedge, to help hold the bearing to the shaft.

As for the drive bearings. If they are cleaned out and then re packed each season they will give pretty good life.
Ms

I didn't want to come right out and say it was probably a Cat issue with tolerances but that's kind of what I figured lol.As far as removing the bearing from their respective carriers do they require a press or is there a retainer that comes out to allow them to be popped out and put in a parts washer?

 

[Turboflash]

IMO moisture has very little do with the failures. There are lots of examples of sleds with very few miles on them and the shaft has already been spinning in the bearing. Additionally, there is a decent seal inboard of that bearing to keep moisture from tunnel from reaching the bearing. If the seal is good, there is not much chance of water getting to that bearing. Many guys have looked at a failed bearing and found it still plenty full of good grease and no water. That's what I have seen lots of times.
Basically, because there is no interference between the shaft and bearing, when the bearing is cold the grease is thicker so the bearing doesn't want to turn easily. The engine doesn't care that the bearing is cold so when you poke the throttle, the engine turns everything up like it's supposed to. The track shaft spins up and leaves the bearing behind, meaning the shaft is spinning faster than bearing and you get the problem we all know about. This happens over and over and over causing wear on shaft and bearing. The fit between the shaft and bearing gets looser and looser as the two parts wear.
Yes, BOP wedge seems to be about the best solution.

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

You are finding out that there are 3/4 choices, to go with,the barn of parts wedge,to take up The clearance assuming you have a low mileage sled.the other is depending on wear,some build up shaft with weld,and then turn it down to 1.771”(bearing I.D 1.770) or have a dealer with a known repair/refurbish program install a anti rotation pin in shaft,and slot the inner race of a upgraded bearing, less than the cost of a replacement shaft with a new bearing,or the latest replacement shafts are supposed to be a tighter tolerance.good luck.attached is the list of bearings for the upper and lower drive shaft from turboflash on this forum.I will be selling my B.O.P shaft saver once my sled returns from dealer for the above mentioned refurbishment.The shaft saver I will sell for $100 plus shipping.Original cost was $140 plus shipping

 

[Mototown]

Get rid of Chinese drive shaft bearing, seal drag is really bad . When you take it off you think there is something wrong with it . Take the seals off it spins fine . Buy a NTN bearing . If there's more than 4 thousands clearance, get the shaft welded . The NTN bearing is at least half the rolling resistance of the Chinese stock bearing.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

One of the leading bearing manufacturers just needs to make a replacement bearing for this application with a collar and set screws, NO?

 

[Sevey]

I didn't want to come right out and say it was probably a Cat issue with tolerances but that's kind of what I figured lol.As far as removing the bearing from their respective carriers do they require a press or is there a retainer that comes out to allow them to be popped out and put in a parts washer?

On the clutch side:
The jack shaft bearing will drive out of housing if you tap on the shaft on the chaincase side with a block of wood. Undo all circlips obviously. You will need a press to get it off the shaft. The bearing in the caliper housing just needs to have the break line unhooked and placed in a press.

Chaincase side:
The shop manual specs removing the chaincase from the side of the tunnel and pressing the bearings out. Using a blind hole puller will work sufficiently to yank the bearing out and save taking the chaincase housing off the tunnnel. Make sure you use heat on the housing taking bearings in and out.
Hope that helps
Ms

 

[fourbarrel]

Get rid of Chinese drive shaft bearing, seal drag is really bad . When you take it off you think there is something wrong with it . Take the seals off it spins fine . Buy a NTN bearing . If there's more than 4 thousands clearance, get the shaft welded . The NTN bearing is at least half the rolling resistance of the Chinese stock bearing.

Do you have the NTN numbers for the axle and jackshaft? I've been looking but can't find them.

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Do you have the NTN numbers for the axle and jackshaft? I've been looking but can't find them.

Post number 5 of this thread has the numbers needed ‍

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

The only bearing number that is not the same as the Arctic Cat, (post number #5)is at the Secondary Clutch.Yamaha runs a different secoundary than cat,therefore different bearing.This number can be found in that model secoundary driveshaft break down

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Th

Post number 5 of this thread has the numbers needed ‍

This link should help

 

[Turboflash]

One of the leading bearing manufacturers just needs to make a replacement bearing for this application with a collar and set screws, NO?

If I could have my wish, I would want a trackshaft bearing using something like Sealmaster Skwezloc collar-lock bearing. Split-type inner race and concentric collar centers shaft in bearing perfectly.