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Removing exhaust

OVEREDUCATIONALIZATION: That's my term for when extremely smart educated people design stupid things. An absolute brilliant motor, then finish it off with bolts that nobody has a tool for & can't be torqued with confidence. Hex bolts have worked for what now, 150 years? I'm going to blame it on AC because if i know Yamaha did this, I may lose confidence in this sled as a whole...
 

Is this the 5or 6 bolts to remove the header/muffler,or the 3 bolts that losen up on the exhaust side before the muffler?
 
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This is a thread people should read. If you EVER PLAN on taking your muffler off. Maybe chain adjuster? The bolts get so hot they almost weld together. If possible a guy should pull em and anti seize the piss out of them. Especially new with no miles because they are ALOT EASIER TO GET OUT. This is going to be a issue for guys down the road if they run aftermarket or what have you. The one photo shows how to pull the tight spacing ones. The other is a friend of all turbo exhaust bolts.
 
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Good idea. I pulled mine last night and it was a pain to get some out .


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View attachment 124200 View attachment 124199 This is a thread people should read. If you EVER PLAN on taking your muffler off. Maybe chain adjuster? The bolts get so hot they almost weld together. If possible a guy should pull em and anti seize the piss out of them. Especially new with no miles because they are ALOT EASIER TO GET OUT. This is going to be a issue for guys down the road if they run aftermarket or what have you. The one photo shows how to pull the tight spacing ones. The other is a friend of all turbo exhaust bolts.
I've got 35 miles on my sled and mine were seized. I sent an email to my dealer with pictures showing the seized bolts. I was able to get 2 out, EZ outs didn't cut it. I had to pretty much drill the complete diameter of the bolts out so what does that tell you. The last one bit me in the butt and the bit snapped about 1/16th from getting through. The dealer said the Yamaha rep would like to inspect my sled so it's going in tomorrow. I hope they help me out, I'll be disappointed if they don't especially since I've bought 3 new sleds in the last 3 years. I do hope people read this thread and take action before they get in a jam like me. You have no choice but to remove the exhaust to get at the chain tensioner so it's only a matter of time before more people run into the same problems I'm dealing with.
 
to remove bolts...

take a torx in a socket drive....if you remove the bit from the socket....now you have just the torx bit....take the boxed end of a combination wrench that mates to the bit 5/16? ...take a small piece of electrical tape to the end that going into the boxed end to snug it in...now press the bit into the box...now you have a wrench with a torx bit sticking out of the boxed end..the tape keeps keeps the bit there...

if your bit doesnt grab the stud well...you can dress it on a grinding wheel to bite better

now get a mapp gas torch...not propane...mapp gas burns much hotter....get the stud hot...try to concentrate your heat in the center of the stud.

of course wear thick safe gloves..and now your mini wrench will loosen with ease.

if for whatever reason it doesnt .....or stops and gets a tight spot....reheat...

be patient...heat is your friend...
 
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Mine were switched to bolts right away
 
Grade 8 hardened bolts (M8 x 1.25) with anti-seeze.

Should be able to go to any hardware store and get them. Just bring in 1 off of the sled so they can get the right thread length.
 
Grade 8 hardened bolts (M8 x 1.25) with anti-seeze.

Should be able to go to any hardware store and get them. Just bring in 1 off of the sled so they can get the right thread length.
Thanks NOS PRO. Are you nutting any of them on the back side? I Did not look to see if this was possible? Hope guys can actually get one out with threads still on them to take to the hardware store :o|.. I had one that I had to work on a little.. Lost two threads on a bolt , nothing major, but still
 
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